The shelf is notched 

, depending on the design of the jacket shelves can have two Darts in the side and front. To make the product better fit the figure at the waist line, make the front and side tuck. Jackets semi-fitted silhouette usually only do the side tuck. Tuck the side split and front can be cut and uncut. 
Side Darts sew the seam width 0.7 cm in from the armhole to the waist line. From the waist seam is gradually negated, ending the line on the line side pockets and below the ends tuck on 1 - 1,5 cm
Split front tuck grind off the seam width 0.7 cm in the direction from the line side of the pocket up, gradually reducing the stitch and ending the stitch at the level of the reference point. In the ends of the Darts from the side of the shelves enclose the strips of the main fabric, which produce 1 - 2 cm beyond the ends of the Darts (figure 8). If the Darts sew on the machine, strips of fabric that enclose.
Machine for grinding recesses ensures the automatic deduction of shelves, stacked by the operator and oriented on the table for cuts, supply of shelves in the work area with bending and fixing them in the fold, stitching the tuck stitch single weave chain with a given contour with fixing the beginning and end of the stitching, cutting Darts at the crest line, the thread trimming and stowage of items in a pack. The use of the machine allows to increase productivity for operations by 2.5 times.
When bridging beam Darts on the shelf in the middle of the bend tucks and grind on the planned oval line, starting from the line side pockets and seam gradually reducing to nothing at the target point. When skiving such recesses from the bottom to enclose the strip of the main fabric to improve the appearance of the product after reputazione the weld (Fig. 9, a). 
When razoruzhenie side tuck shelf stack side to side cut block to a running. Moisturize and rautureau seam, at the same time satwiwa slack at the end of the tuck.
When razoruzhenie front tuck (Fig. 9, b) a shelf moisturize and rautureau, placing seam Darts to one side, a strip of cloth in the other. Slack in the tuck end sativum. A strip of cloth placed under the stitching, trimmed in the shape of Darts. One layer of strips, who plays for the tuck end, netscout to line of stitching the tuck. To consolidate sucuzhanay slack fabric in the upper ends of the front Darts stick adhesive edging fabric. 
Thorough sutivana slack tissue in the lower end of the tuck ensures the correct position of the side pocket on the shelf.

Shelves with detachable side

Shelves with cutting sides is made mostly in the products of woolen fabrics that contain synthetic fibers (Dacron, Terranova) and resistent wet-heat treatment, or jackets in the 3rd polnocnej group to create an enlarged bulge in the abdomen.
The processing of these shelves first, sew the front Darts and connect side slit pockets slanted stitches with a length of 1 - 1.5 cm or with adhesive edges, positioning the slices back to back. Then cutting the side portion is folded face against the face of the shelves, stack the slices and pritachivajut from the side part seam width 1 cm Seam moisturize and rautureau (see Fig. 8).
In mass production for primaqiune cutting the side pieces to the shelves used machine. Semi-automatic grind slices, fixes the frequent stitching stitches, clip threads, stacks stefannie items in the packet and returns a template in the download area automatically. The operator shall only laying the mix in the pattern for stops, closes the template includes automatic and at the end of the Assembly removes the stack from the stacker.
Flatlock stitching is a two-line chain weave. The machine ensures high-quality operation and increases productivity almost twice. 

Shelves Flirty 

Shelves with the yoke used in jackets sports style. The yoke may be straight or curly. Connect them with the main part of the bridging, lapped tongue or patch seam depending on the model. 
When connecting the yoke with a shelf bridging or lapped tongue seam the yoke is folded with shelf, right sides and sew from the shoulder seam width 1 - 1.5 cm Seam folded in the direction of yoke and iron (Fig. 10 a). Scribbled the yoke (Fig. 10, b), if required by the model from the front side using the foot with the guide. The width of the seam allowance nastroennogo from the yoke of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, side main part width of this allowance is equal to the distance from the finishing stitches to the lower edge of the yoke (on the model) plus 0.5 cm.
The connection of Basque with the shelf overlay seam on the auxiliary pattern with the front side outlines a fold line the edge of the yoke. On the front side of the main part of the shelf plan a line, which must be located in a bend in the yoke. Cut yoke zametyvayut on the planned line on the machine or manual chain stitch straight stitches with a length of 1 - 1.5 cm at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the edge. The edge of the yoke to press on the folding press or iron with the template. Usually the width of the ACC is equal to the width of the seam felling plus 0.5 cm.Then the yoke is applied to the core part on the planned line, namachivajut on the machine or manual straight stitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the bend in the shoulder and scribbled on the front side according to the model, using the foot with the guide (Fig. 10).
In figure coquettes, where the width of the seam felling exceeds 0.5 cm, protruding corners pre-grind off on the inside seam with the width of 0.5 cm, rautureau seams, corners and Flirty twist on the front side or fixed by hand six or seven hidden stitches blind stitch (Fig. 10, g). 
The edges of the yoke iron on hemming press, zametyvayut on a special machine or by hand, and then priorivet. Scribbled yoke on the basic details as specified above. 

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 

1. Why duplicate the details of the jacket? 
2. How is the process of duplication?
3. What parts or sections of parts connected to the adhesive strip? 
4. Why the need for tucks and what are they? 
5. The different treatment of continuous and split tuck? 
6. What is the principle of operation of the machine when participarii the side pieces to the shelf? 
7. What joints connect the yoke to the part? 
8. How figure connect the yoke to the part?