Depending on the model of the back of the jackets can consist of one, two and more parts. 

The back with a seam in the middle

The back with a seam in the middle consists of two parts. Put them right sides together, stack the slices and grind on the right side from the neck down with no tension or fit of the parts with a seam width of 1 cm In the processing of the middle seam of the back of the fabric with a pattern of cuts to grind, adjusting the pattern of the fabric. If the fabric is striped, stripes feature on the right and left side of the back symmetrically relative to the middle of the seam. In the back, attached at the waist, stripes on the fabric in the upper part must match, and at the bottom be parallel to the seam.

Transverse stripes on the cellular tissues must match across the seam (Fig. 30). The middle sections of the back, you can sew on the machine. The seam of the back rautureau on the press with a special pillow or iron. 

Vented back 

Slot doing in the middle seam of the back. To this end, the cut backs envisaged allowance for processing. For protection of the edges of the slots from stretching along the intended bend lines are laid edge. To give them elasticity and resistance to wrinkling put strip.

On the left side of the back support mold outline of the crest line slots, departing from the middle cut of the back 1 cm, on the right - at a distance of 2 cm from the cut slots. 

The gasket primetyvajut from the allowance for processing slots straight stitches with a length of 2 cm, having a line in the middle. Edge are laid along the planned lines with a little tension (Col. Fig. 31, a), hemming the edges from the outside (from the side of the fold slots) blind stitch stitches. The edge of the fabric with one-side adhesive coating paving iron (CV. Fig. 31, a, b).

For products made of fabrics containing up to 50 - 55 % synthetic fiber strip it is possible to apply edge padding only on the left side of the back. The lower sections of the strip and edges must end on the line of bending the bottom of the back, the top - level sections of the mating slots. 

The middle sections of the back grind using the guide line on the right part, starting from the cut edge of the neck and ending the stitching 1 cm below the allowance for processing or grinding off the splines at the same time the upper sections of the mating slots and finishing line at a distance of 0.7 cm from its lateral edges.

Then allowance for processing the slots of the back bend towards the inside on the planned lines and zametyvayut on the machine or by hand chain stitch straight stitches with a length of 1.5 cm Lines have a distance of 0.5 - 0.8 cm from the bend. Bend the slots on the left side of the back should be a continuation of the middle seam of the back. 

The seam of the back at the top of the slots netscout and rautureau. Bends slots iron from the inside, and then vspuchivajut or lay line on the front side: on the right side at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold on the left - on model. The stitching is carried out using the ruler guide.

The slot back at the top fixed machine stitch along the line (CV. Fig. 31). 

Seam priorivet from the inside, then priorivet all back. Slots located in the side seams, treated the same way as the slot in the middle back. 

Back with half-belt, pleated yoke 

Back may consist of a yoke, the main and lower; the waist line may be strap.

The tabs can be with lining and without it. When processing sections with lining detail from main fabric and lining right sides stack up, stack the slices and grind from the side lining seam with the width of 0.5 cm Lining must be already sections of the main fabric 0.5 - 0.6 cm Strap turn, spawn or priorivet, straightening seams and forming of the base fabric edge with a width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm, depending on the model on the strap from the main fabric or the lining paving finishing line with the guide bar (Fig. 32, a).

When handling strap, unlined detail of the main fabric folded in half at the joint direction of the face inward, equating sections, and sew a seam with a width of 0,5 - 0,7 cm Seam moisturize and rautureau. Then turn the tab on the front side, spawn on the machine one thread chain stitch or by hand at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold. Inflorescence emerge when it is necessary to ensure that the seam was held right in the middle of the strap.

Tab priorivet through moist protohellenic, straightening the edges. Strap can be decorated with stitching, which is laid through the guide bar or presser foot with a guide wire in accordance with the model (Fig. 32, b). 

In the back pleats outline from the inside on the auxiliary patterns of the average line and the line of the outer folds of the pleats. Back bend at the middle lines face inward and smatyvay pleats machine single thread chain stitch or by hand along the lines of the outer bend. The ends of the folds fixed double reverse stitching at the sanding machine.

Stock inverted pleats are laid on two sides and iron so that the middle of the stock on the crease is positioned over the seam smachivaniya. The allowance of unilateral folds are bent in the direction of the model and the iron.

To maintain the shape of the folds when wearing the products Nesmachnyi portions of the folds secured from the inside with strips of cotton fabric. To do this, after treatment of the folds from the inside namachivajut gasket (striped cotton cloth) hand straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm Lines placed along the inner bends of the folds and at a distance of 4 - 5 cm from the lateral sections of the part. The inner folds of the pleats attach to the strip on the blindstitch machine or hand stitches slant length 3 0 cm from the strip (Fig. 33, a).The side sections of the strip should be attached to the side seams and the seams of the armholes after processing.

The main and lower part of the back sew waist seam with the width ! cm from the lower part (Fig. 33, b). Iron the seam to the side parts without folds. 

The yoke connects with the main portion of the back as well as when the processing of the shelves. 

Processed the strap placed on the back waist and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.5 cm from the side sections. Tab while slightly bent. Excess strap length is cut. 

Back with a cutting side and straight yoke 

Such backrests are used in the jackets of school uniforms.

Lateral and middle part of the back fold, right sides and sew from the side piece, aligning the notch with a seam width of 1 cm Seams folded towards the middle part of the back and scribbled on the front side. Width seam felling equal to 0,5 - 0,7 cm. 

fold Yoke with the main portion of the back, right sides inside and pritachivajut on the yoke seam 1 cm wide, combining cuts and the notch. Then the seam is folded in the direction of the yoke and scribbled on the front side on the yoke at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the seam primaqiune (Fig. 34).

On the reverse side of the back at neckline pritachivajut the strip, departing from the shoulder of slices and slice the neck of 0.4 - 0.5 cm 

QUESTIONS 

1. What back can be men's and children's jackets? 
2. What are the technical requirements to be observed when grinding the middle sections of the back? 
3. What is it used for gasket and flange in the slot of the back? 
4. In some cases, the slot of the back treated without pads?
5. What is the technological processing sequence is backless with cut sides and a straight yoke?
6. What is the special treatment of the back with pleats and a notched yoke? 
7. How to handle tabs on the lining?