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Home » Articles » Women's and children's dress

Dress casual,"sun"Dress yoke/Dress, cut at the waist line

DRESS CASUAL, "THE SUN"

In Fig. 220 depicted dress casual, "sun", Flirty oval, short sleeve "flared", pockets, zipper on the shoulder line. The fabric is silk or cotton, plain or with a small figure.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare the main pattern of the dress and sleeves. For this pattern to apply a line style.
Back. From Rostock in the middle of the back to postpone down 9 cm (Fig. 221, a) and point 9 to connect a smooth line with the lower end of the arm, as shown in the figure.
Waist line divided into four equal parts and through the points of division to hold a straight line to the intersection with the lines of the hem, yoke and arm openings.
Before. From the neck to defer down in the middle of the front 1 cm (Fig. 221, b) and from points 1 - 10 to see smooth lines Connect the point 1 with the highest point of the neck and point 10 with the lower end of the arm. Waist line divided into four equal parts and through the points of division to hold a straight line to the intersection with the lines of the hem, yoke and arm openings.
Pocket. To construct a square with sides equal to 8 cm (Fig. 221, C), bottom corners a little more rounded. For assemblies, the upper line of the pocket to divide it into three parts and through division points spend the lines are straight.
Sleeve. On the main pattern sleeve in the middle to delay a length of 15 cm (Fig. 221, d). Through this point draw a horizontal line. From point 15 to be postponed left and right horizontally at 4 to 5 cm and from these points to hold up the straight lines.
The training patterns. The pattern cut through the yoke and vertical lines. Cut the extra part of the pattern.
So the pattern is not scattered, we should all cut lines are not to bring to the Basque line to 2 - 3 mm.

layout and cutting

The fabric from one end of the doubled cross fold length dresses. The pattern of the front to lay out on the fabric, as shown in Fig. 222. Free fabric corner to put the sleeve and pocket.
The fabric from the other end to put also on the transverse crease, on the length of the dress. Out of the remaining fabric to cut out the yoke of the back (lower layer) and the yoke of the front (top layer). The yoke of the back can be cut out of two parts (for bridging yoke).

Tailoring

On the shoulder line of the front to sew 3 loops of rolica. Allowance for the clasp on the buttons on the shoulder backless oblachat equity placket. Neck handle podkralas the facing. To impose the shoulder line of the front to the back, tack. Bend and prometti the edge of the yoke inside out, pin to the dress on the snare, tack, pristroit on the edge.
Sew the side sections of the sleeve bridging the seam. The bottom of the dress and sleeves to oblachat piping. Sleeves vacati. The top line of the pocket hem podkralas the facing on wide rubber bands or ribbons. Side pockets tuck and stitch on the edge. Pockets to place on 3 - 5 cm below the waist.

Note. The edge of the yoke and the bottom of the dress can be oblachat colored piping to match the dress fabric. To the ends of the bands of the sleeves sew the ribbons that tie with bows. When washing them it is necessary to untie and remove from the sleeves. In the pockets of threaded ribbon tie on the front side bows.

DRESS YOKE

Dress (Fig. 223, a) at the yoke in front and curly in back straight, turn-down collar, inverted pleats. Long sleeve cuffs. The fabric is smooth cotton, wool or silk. This dress you can sew without collar, cut the neck at a right angle (Fig. 223, b). The line of the yoke and the bottom of the dress can be finished with lace or embroidered with cross stitch.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare the main pattern of the dress. For this pattern to apply a line style. Main pattern sleeve upheld.
Back. From Rostock in the middle of the back to delay down 10 cm (Fig. 224, a). From point 10 to spend right horizontal line to the intersection with the line of openings. For allowance for the zip to add 2 cm to the left and to outline loop.
Before. From the neck down the middle of the front to postpone down 7 cm (Fig. 224, b). From the shoulder to defer down the armhole 8 see Dots 7 and 8 to connect with a straight line. This line is split in half and the dividing point down to hold the perpendicular length of 4 cm, Points 7, 4, 8 connect the straight lines.
From point 4 to hold down to the hem line parallel to the middle of the front. This line will be laid one inverted pleat in the middle front of the point 7 is another crease.
The construction of the collar. To construct a right angle with the vertex A (Fig. 224,). From point A on horizontal and vertical lines to postpone 1/3 of the semicircle neck: (14:3) x 2 = 9.5 cm.
From point A draw a line, dividing the angle in half, and her delay is also 9.5 cm. to Hold a smooth line through the three points of 9.5.
From the points of 9.5 to postpone (horizontal, vertical, and divide the angle in half) at 5 cm to Hold a smooth line through the points 5. From point 5 (vertical line) to defer to the right of 0.5 cm-Point 0,5 to connect a straight line with a point of 9.5.
The angle at point 5 on the horizontal line to round.
Cuff. Cuff width 18 cm, height 3 cm.
The training patterns. The pattern of the back and front cut on the lines and Flirty pleats. Put the part numbers (No. 1 - 5).

Layout and cutting

The fabric is doubled at the common thread (Fig. 225).
Pattern pieces to place on the fabric as follows:
item No. 2 back, departing from the fold of fabric 8 cm (half the depth of the inverted pleat);
item No. 4, before, departing from the fold of fabric 8 cm; another counter-pleats to retreat to 12 cm;
item No. 3, the yoke front, middle front on fold of fabric;
item No. 1, the yoke of the back, the middle of the back to the edges;
item No. 5 - straight line side of the forehand, stepping back from the edge at 4 cm
Collar, sleeve and cuff be positioned as shown in Fig. 225.

Tailoring

Baste folds. The seam allowance through the yoke of the back bend inside out and tack to the part No. 2, combining lines of the middle and armholes.
The yoke of the front handle angle podkralas the facing. Bend the seam allowance through the yoke inside out and tack to the front, combining lines of the middle and armholes. Baste the side seams of the dress and sleeves.
Sew a seam in the crease. Pristroit to the yoke at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Sew side and shoulder seams, neaten, ironed the seams to one side. Hem the bottom of the dress.
Sew collar with podvorotnya, turn on the front side, prometti on the edge, priotity. Collar votati in the neck of the dress, combining the line of mid front and back. Then tack the bias tape.
To pritchet collar with piping. Slash bake on the wrong side of the hem a hidden seam. Sew sleeves and swept off to one side.
To sew cuffs, pristroit to the sleeve. Sweep the loop at the yoke and cuffs. Sew on buttons. To vacate sleeves, seam to neaten.
Ready dress ironed.

DRESS CUTTING THROUGH THE WAIST

Dress (Fig. 226), cutting (for the waist line of the back and sides) with a flared skirt, waistband, tie at the sides with bows. Closure with four buttons. A wide collar. The fabric is cotton, silk or wool.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare the main pattern of the dress and sleeves.
Back. Waist line divide into three equal parts (Fig. 227, a) and from each point of division to hold a straight line to the intersection with the bottom line.
Before. Waist from center front to postpone left 4 cm (Fig. 227, b) and point 4 to connect a straight line of cut with the highest point of the neck. From the neck to defer down in the middle of the front 3 inches and from point 3 to hold the left horizontal line; the intersection of line style to put the point A.
Outline loop; it from point A to defer down to 1.5 cm, and from the point of 1.5 - 5 cm waist Line from point 4 (to the left) divided into three equal parts and from each point of division and 4 points to lead direct to the intersection with the bottom line.
Collar. To construct a right angle with the vertex A (Fig. 227, in). From point A to defer down vertically 4 cm and Then measure the length of the sprout and the neck to the point A; in this case, length 14 cm From point 4 to postpone 14 cm on the inclined and horizontal lines to put the point 14. Points 4 and 14 to connect a straight line to divide it in half, and from the points of division to postpone down 1 see
To hold a smooth line terminations of the collar through the points 4, 1, 14. From these points postpone the width of the collar is equal to 7, see Point 7 to connect a smooth line and to defer to the right of the middle of the collar 15 cm; points 15 and 14 to connect a smooth line.
Sleeve. To measure the sleeve length 30 cm (Fig. 227, g) and through the point 30 to draw a line parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves.
Cuff. Cuff width 18 cm, height 8 cm
The training patterns. The pattern cut at the waist, vertical lines, a-line style. To number parts. Unnecessary parts of the pattern to cut.

Layout and cutting

The fabric is folded in half with the fold at the common thread (Fig. 228). The middle of the forehand to put the fold of the fabric; on the first line cut to allow for a fold of 3 cm at the waist and 5 cm at the bottom line. For the remaining lines of the section to bottoms to push the pattern down to 6 cm at the Top to make allowance for the treatment of neck and zipper. The middle of the back of the skirt to put to the bend of the fabric, and hem for a flared a-line cut to push at 6 cm For a larger line along the lines of the sides of the back and front, you can also add 3 cm
The layout of the rest of the parts and the seam shown in Fig. 228.

Tailoring

Neck to hem inside out, sew shoulder seams. To vacate collar.
Baste and sew the side sections of the bodice and skirt, neaten in one direction, priotity. Baste skirt to bodice at waistline and sew. To votati belt line cut, crease, sew a line style to the buttons. Hem the bottom.



Category: Women's and children's dress | Added by: 20.10.2017
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