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Home » Articles » Women's and children's dress

Dress with cap sleeve Dress and jacket

DRESS WITH CAP SLEEVES 

In Fig. 149 depicts a style of dress-suit with cap sleeves. 

Short jacket, 3/4 sleeves with a split hem, collar, shawl, overhead valves. Clasp on two buttons. 

The skirt is straight, narrow, without side seams, back inverted pleat. 

Fabric, wool, thick silk or thick cotton. Consumption of fabric for average size of 2.1 m and a width of 140 cm 

lines cut and prepare the pattern 

Prepare the basic pattern of jacket with cap long sleeve and sidled, passing into the gusset, and the skirt pattern.

For these patterns to apply a line style. 

The back of the jacket. Off the mark at the shoulder to defer the sleeve length plus 2 cm (Fig. 150, a): 44 + 2 = 46 cm

From podraza line the bottom seam of the sleeve to defer 26 see Points 46 and 26 to connect with a straight line. From point 46 to postpone inside the sleeve 1 cm (see Fig. 150, a). To connect lines the top seam and the bottom of the sleeves through the point 1 a smooth line. 

From Rostock on the shoulder line to postpone 1 cm and to hold from point 1 smooth line of Rostock.

A tuck at the waist line to translate in the middle seam of the back. Line means back from Rostock to the line with his chest split in half. From the middle of the back waist to postpone 2 see breaking Point and point 2 to connect direct line. From point 2 to the waist line drop the perpendicular to a length of 12 cm.From point 12 to hold right horizontal line, extending it by 2 cm for the line side. Point 2 to connect with T a smooth line and to postpone it 12 see Points 12 and N connect.

Front of jacket. From stamps on the shoulder to defer the sleeve length - 44 cm (Fig. 150, b), from podraza at the bottom seam - 26 see Points 44 and 26 to connect with a straight line. The angle of the bottom to round sleeves as well as sleeves on the back. From the neck line shoulder to postpone 1 see Point 1 to connect with the line of the neck. From the line waist up postpone through the middle of the front 4 cm From point 4 to spend to the right of the horizontal line that is 3 cm from point 3 and down the straight length 7 cm, parallel to the middle of the front.

On the line side from Lily waist to defer down to 12 cm of Shortening on the bottom tuck on the waist lineto 11, see Through the points 7, 11 and 12 to hold a smooth line the bottom of the jacket and extend it to the left 2 cm Point 2 to connect the dot So

To build surface-mounted valve from the waist line side to postpone down 9 see the line split in half. On the left side tuck from waist down 3 to postpone see the Point of dividing to connect a straight line withpoint 3. Points 9 and 3 to connect a smooth line.

From podraza on line sides to postpone 4 see Point 4 and 1 (on the shoulder) connect the straight lines, with the end of a chest tuck. Get the line transfer Darts. 

To build a collar to hold from point 1 up the vertical line equal to the length of the sprout, 8 cm From point 8 to hold the left perpendicular 3 see Point 3 connect a smooth line with point 1. From point 3 to hold to the right perpendicular of length 9 cm.

From the neck to hold to the right of the horizontal line that is 6 cm in Points 6 and 3 to connect auxiliary line. This line divide into three equal parts, from the lower points of division perpendicular to the line to defer 3 see Connect point 9, b, 3 and 3 a smooth line. 

Outline two loops, as shown in Fig. 150 b. 

Flank, turning in his gusset. Along the lines of the sides from the waist to postpone down at 12 cm (Fig. 150,). Point 12 to connect a smooth line and continue it to the right and to the left by 2 see Points 2 and 2 are connected with a smooth line waist.

The training patterns. Pin tuck close and cut to the plotted lines. Cut off the collar at the points 3, 1, b and9. To prepare a pattern surface of the valve, podborta with a collar. Extra patterns to cut. 

Layout and cutting 

Cut the fabric for the skirt, along the length of the skirt plus 8 cm for seams. To cut the skirt, as shown in the drawing (Fig. 151,a). The rest of the fabric folded in half common thread. The middle of the back to put equity to the fold of the fabric, departing from Rostock to 2 cm, and at the bottom of the jacket 4 cm for folds.

The middle of the front of the jacket to put a common thread, the middle of collar to the fold of the fabric, other parts, - as shown in Fig. 151 b. To cut all of the details. 

Fitting and tailoring 

Baste, and sew the seam in domestic counter-bend folds. To cover up an inverted pleat and to stitch it, leaving nezastroennoe 16 cm for the clasp at the top and 20 cm to bottom of the skirt. Hem the bottom of the skirt. Sew the corsage.

Undercuts have jacket to vitacare pokrainini obrazkami. Corner gussets to vacate in undercuts with obrazkami side and sew with the side of the jacket. On the back counter relief defer 0.5 cm to the waist line. Below the waist the opposite crease, priotity from the inside. Sew the sleeves. To handle loops. 

Tuck on the waist line sew up and down 1cm and press. Side a tuck stitch length 5 cm, depth 2 cm and resuturing. Tuck from the shoulder line stitch length is b cm, the remaining length of the tuck to press. 

Handle collar and Board. Hem bottom of jacket.

The upper and lower valves to sweep, sew, turn, baste around the edge priotity and pritchet to the intended line on the jacket; to turn down priotity from the inside of the jacket, and the inner sections were treated fingered seam. Sew on buttons. 

Bottom of sleeves to handle pokrainini obrazkami. 

Waist line to pripasayte 4 cm, sucurity and sew the edge of a hidden seam, to the waist line is not stretched. 

DRESS AND JACKET 

In Fig. 152 depicts a suit for summer, consisting of dress and jacket. 

Shift dress with cap short sleeves. Along the lines of style is located at the top and bottom pockets.

The jacket is lengthened, straight cut, sleeve vtachnoy. The neck strut one-piece, a little behind the neck. In the lower lines now pockets. The jacket is trimmed with stitching. 

The fabric is thick silk, linen or cotton. Consumption of fabric for the medium size for the dress and jacket by 1.7 m with a width of 140 cm 

the lines of the design and preparation of patterns of dresses 

to Prepare a dress pattern with cap sleeves and diamond-shaped gusset.

Back. From Rostock in the middle of the back to delay down 5 cm (Fig. 153, a), and on the shoulder line - 7 see Point 5 and 7 to connect a smooth line. To postpone from the shoulder the sleeve length is 20 cm, from the side on the bottom seam sleeves - 2 see Points 20 and 2 are connected by a straight line. 

Line mid-back is the seam in which it is necessary to take a tuck in depth 1.5 cm From the sides at the waist to postpone 1 see Point 1 connect with a undercut straight line and hips a smooth line. From the hip line draw a vertical line to the hem of the dress.
 
Before. Defer from brand to shoulder the sleeve length is 20 cm (Fig. 153, b) from the side seam on the lower sleeve - 2 see Points 20 and 2 to connect a smooth line.

From the neck on the shoulder line to delay 7 cm, and in the middle of the front down - 3 see Points 7 and 3 to connect a smooth line. At the line from point 3 to postpone 2 cm to the left and down the middle front - 3 see Points 2 and 3 to connect with a straight line.

From the middle of the front at the waist line to delay 7 cm and the circumference of the chest - 8 see Point 7 and 8 connect by a straight line, continue upwards 3 cm From the line shoulder to bottom vertically put the 12 cm and from point 12 to the right horizontal - 2 see Points 2 and 3 to connect a smooth line. Then point 2 to connect with the line of podraza. 

From point 7 on waist line to delay left 4 cm From the midpoint (7 - 4) at the waist line to hold down a vertical line equal to 14 see Point 14 connect the straight lines with points 4 and 7 (at the waist).

Waist from the sides to remove 1 see, For constructing a pocket from the point 14 to the side to draw a straight a line parallel to the waist line. From this line up to defer 4 cm and to hold the second parallel line.

From the hip line to hold straight down to the bottom of the dress. 

The training patterns. Cut the pattern along the lines of style, tuck in the waist line cut. Breast tuck to close. Cut off the excess part patterns. Parts numbered. 

Layout and cutting of the dress 

Fabric folded in half with the fold at the common thread (Fig. 154) and place the pattern pieces as follows:

item No. 1 - mid front on fold of fabric; upper pocket to the burlap of his pocket to add on the layout cloth;
item No. 2 - the common thread; allow for the bottom of the pocket on the layout 10 cm; 
item No. 3, back - the common thread, having receded from edges 6 SL folds. 

The layout of the other parts and contributes to the seams shown in Fig. 154. 

To find all the details of the dress. 

Fitting and sewing a dress 

to Oblachat line the top of the pocket and to delay at 3 cm from the edge. To iron. Treating lower pockets.

Baste and sew the dress along the lines of style and to iron. On the back sew the seam to the bottom of the dress, stepping back from the edge of the fabric 1 cm Then sew the middle of the back, not destrucive to the bottom of the dress is 25 cm for a fold. 

Sew the upper and the lower sections of the sleeves. To oblachat the neckline and the sleeves, sew the gusset. Hem the bottom of the dress.

Lines cut and prepare the pattern of the jacket 

Prepare the basic pattern of the jacket with the allowance for free customized fit 6 cm, without side, of the collar and tucks at the waist. Jacket length 65 see to Prepare a main pattern double seam of the sleeve.

Back. From Rostock on the shoulder to postpone 1 cm (Fig, 155, a) to stand of the jacket away from the neck. From point 1 to hold a smooth line to Rostock. 

For building racks line the middle of the back to continue up to 5 cm. From point 1 to hold up the vertical line 3 cm length of Points 8 and 5 to connect a smooth line. Stand shoulder line to connect also smoothline.

Before. From the neck on the shoulder line to postpone 1 cm (Fig. 155, b). From point 1 to hold a smooth line to the line of the neck. From mid front for neck postpone 3 cm to the left from point 3 to hold to bottom of jacket a line parallel to the middle of the front. 

For build the rack from point 1 to hold up the vertical line that is 2 see point 2 hold right horizontal line, equal to 2.5 cm. Point 2,5 to combine smooth lines with points 3 and 1.

Line shoulder extending beyond the line of Darts by 1 cm From the bottom tuck end to postpone to the left of the chest 2 cm From point 1 through point 2 to hold a straight line to the bottom of the jacket. This line and the line side to defer up 14 see Both points 14 connect. Get a line of pockets. Breast tuck translate in-line style. To do this, from point 1 on the shoulder line to delay the left depth of the tuck 8 see Point 8 and 2 to connect direct line. 

Sleeve. Sleeves remain unchanged (Fig. 155,).

The training patterns. For applying the pattern lines to cut. Breast tuck cut. Cut off the excess part of the pattern and number details. 

Layout and cutting of the jacket 

to Fold the fabric fold the common thread. To arrange the details, as shown in Fig. 156. To cut. 

Fitting and tailoring of the jacket 

to Oblachat pocket and defer 1 cm from the edge. To iron.

Items No. 1 and No. 2 sweep, and sew on the lines style. Defer from weld a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Priotity. Sew shoulder and side sections. To turn over the seams with bias binding. To resaturate on two sides. Hem the bottom jacket. To oblachat the neck and sides. To handle sleeves. To vacate sleeves. 

The jacket can be sewed and lined, that cuts out the pattern of the jacket.



Category: Women's and children's dress | Added by: 20.10.2017
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