DRESS WITH SOFT PLEATS

Dress with soft folds (Fig. 125) is elegant silk. Waist detachable; cap sleeves short with gusset. The skirt laid in soft folds in an oblique direction. Line style on the bodice matches with soft pleat on the skirt. Dress recommended to wear with skirt bottom.
Consumption of fabric for average size of 3.3 m and a width of 75 cm

Training patterns cap sleeves with gusset

The pattern is prepared on the basic dress pattern with cap long sleeves and a gusset (see Fig. 115).
To tailor short sleeve, you should measure the sleeve length to the measure, in this case 13 cm (Fig. 126) from the end of the arm along the upper lines of the sleeves, back and front. Then undercut the gusset of the back and front from the line side to postpone 3 cm Received 13 points and 3 connect the straight lines. Excess length of the pattern sleeves to cut.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

Back. From Rostock on the shoulder line to postpone 2 cm (Fig. 127). Point 2 to connect a smooth line from sprout. From the lower end of the tuck to hold down the vertical line to the hem of the dress. Distance from tuck to the line of hips, waist, split in half and the dividing point to hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the dress. Line the sides from the hip line to hold down the straights.
Before. From the line of the neck on the shoulder to defer to the left of 2 cm (Fig. 127, b). Waist line continue right to 8 see Point 8 and 2 are connected by a straight line. From podraza down the line side to defer 3 see Point 3 to connect the dotted line with the end of a chest tuck.
Waist from center front to postpone left 4 cm From point 4 to hold down the vertical line to the hem of the dress. The next two lines on the skirt from the mid-points of the first and second Darts at the waist line to be parallel to the middle of the front.
From the hip line to draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress.
Gusset. At the sides of the gussets (Fig. 127, b) to adjourn at 3 cm from top to bottom.
The training patterns. Cut the pattern of the bodice from the skirt at the waist line. The skirt pattern cut on the planned vertical lines. Breast tuck to close and open the line of translation of the tuck. Cut the extra part of the pattern. To number the details of the dress.

Layout and cutting

Fabric length 2.5 m folded in half, with the fold in a transverse filament (Fig. 128).
Item No. 1 the middle of the back to put a common thread, having receded from edges, 1 cm for the seam.
Item No. 2 the middle of the front to put a common thread.
Item No. 3 to put the common thread, having receded from edges, 1 cm for the seam. Hold left arbitrary length of control line and to make allowance for the soft folds. To do this, from details No. 3 measure 14 cm and put the item number 4; from it measure 6 cm, put the item No. 5, which measure 5 cm and put the item No. 6.
On the front of the skirt laid three soft folds.
For the first fold, the distance from the middle of the skirt to the details No. 4 at the waist line split in half; the point of dividing to connect a straight line to the bottom right side of the part No. 4. This will be the outer crease of the fold. From the waist down, in the middle of the front, measure 2 cm From the points of division on the waist line to draw a straight line to point 2 and continue to 3 see Point 3 to connect with the bottom point of the outer bend. The resulting deep soft pleats split in half. From the lines of the waist on the outer crease and the tangent measure at 13 cm, to put the brand.
For the second folds the seam allowance 6 cm on the waist line to divide in half. The right side of the part No. 5 be divided into three parts. The breaking point on the waist line to connect the dotted line with the lower point of division into parts no 5. This will bend the inner folds. The outer fold of the pleat is formed
connection the left side of a tuck at the waist details No. 5 with the lower point of division into the same details on the skirt.
For the third fold allowance 5 cm at the waist and the right side of the part number b is split in half. Both points of division to connect with a dotted line. This will bend the inner folds. The outer fold of the pleat is formed by connecting the left side of a tuck at the waist details No. b with the point of division.
The middle gussets to put a common thread.
The remaining fabric length is 80 cm folded in half, forming a crease at the common thread. The middle of the backrest (part No. 7) to put towards the fold of the fabric. Items # 8 and # 9 to push the soft folds and to distribute the same as in the front panel of the skirt. To find all the details of the dress.

Fitting and tailoring 
 
Sew Darts on the bodice, stitch the shoulder and side sections. Sew the facing to the neckline of the back. Remove the inside out. In the formed fold on the front of the bodice to make the edge not to pull the line style. To sew the gusset in the undercut. Sleeves oblachat oblique welts.
Sew the skirt in the middle of the front and side sections, the seams resuturing on both sides.
To lay soft folds on the skirt, and then align the waist line, removing 2 cm in the middle of the front; 2 cm to add on the bottom of the skirt (see Fig. 128). To cover the bottom of the skirt and tack it to the bodice at the waist line.
Hem the bottom of the dress, and sew the bodice to the skirt at the waist line. Sew the waistband. To iron dress. Soft folds to press only on the waist line on the reverse side.

STRAIGHT DRESS WITH CAP SLEEVES

Dress (Fig. 129) - direct with cap sleeves, with stitching in the middle front, single-button closure and wide waistband. The collar, behind the neck, the skirt straight, narrow, without side seams. Fabric, wool or thick silk. Consumption of fabric for average size of 3.7 m and a width of 90 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare a main pattern long cap sleeve and gusset. For this pattern to apply a line style.
Back. From the notch at the end of the shoulder to defer the sleeve length: 45 + 2 = 47 cm (Fig. 130, a). From podraza line the bottom seam of the sleeve to postpone 27 see Both points connect with a straight line.
From Rostock to defer down in the middle of the back 3 cm, and the shoulder line - 4 see Both points connect smooth lines, as shown in the figure.
From the hip line to draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress.

Before. To defer from the notch at the end of the shoulder sleeve length 45 cm (Fig. 130, b), from podraza line the bottom seam of the sleeve - 27 see Points 45 and 27 to connect with a straight line.
From the neck on the shoulder line to postpone 4 cm, and in the middle of the front 9 cm down From point 9 to hold the left and right horizontal line of length 3, see Point 3 left to connect the auxiliary line with point 4. This line is split in half and the points of division to defer to the left 2 see Points 4, 2, 3 to connect a smooth line. Line the bottom of the dress continue to the right by 3 see This point to connect a straight line with a point 3 of the upper.
From Pedraza on the line side to defer 3 see Point 3 to connect with the end chest Darts, get a line of transfer tuck.
From the hip line to hold down the vertical line to the bottom of the dress.
Darts at the waist line to replace the soft folds at a distance: 1-I fold 8 cm from mid front, 2nd- 3 cm from the first fold.
The construction of the collar. For the construction of the collar it is necessary to measure the length of the neck cut. In the drawing, the notch length is 26 cm Construct a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 130). From the point A vertically to postpone 9 cm,
that is 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 3 cm: 18: 3 + 3 = 9 see
From the point 9 a radius of 26 cm to make a notch on the horizontal line. 26 points and 9 connect. The line split in half and the dividing point down to defer 3 see Point 9, 3, 26 connecting a smooth line.
From point 9 to defer down 13 cm, from a point 26 to the right 10 see Point 18 connected to point 10 of the auxiliary line and divide it in half. From the dividing point to hold down the perpendicular is equal to 8, see Point 18, 8, 10 to connect a smooth line. The line from point 10 to defer 5 see Point 5 and 26 to connect with a straight line.
The training patterns. The pattern of the back and the front cut to the waist line.
A tuck at the shoulder line to close and translate it along the line of translation of the tuck. Cut the extra part of the pattern. Collar to make a copy on tracing paper.

Layout and cutting

The fabric is doubled by a transverse filament (Fig. 131) and spread her prepared pattern pieces as follows:
the back of the bodice to the mid common thread, stepping back from the edge about 2 cm;
front bodice common thread so that the distance between the arms of the back and the front was at least 6 cm;
the middle of the front skirt common thread, stepping back from the edge 4 cm for hemming; through the flanks to connect the rear and front panels of the skirt; in the middle of the back add 6 cm to the depth of the pleats;
collar to put the middle of the back common thread.
Other small details to put, as shown in figure 131. All the details of the dress to carve.

Fitting and tailoring 

Processing obtenue loop. Sew the top seams of the sleeves. To connect the collar with the mark on the neck of the front and middle of collar to the middle of the neck of the back, tack propositiva surplus to pristroit.
In the middle of the front seam Topstitch 3 cm wide and Sew the lower sections of the sleeves. Sew the gusset. Sew collar into the facing neckline. The skirt sew the folds. To connect the bodice to the skirt. Belt sew, turn and ironed; for the density of the belt can be done with a thin layer of tough tissue.

DRESS CASUAL "RAGLAN"

Dress corduroy casual "Raglan" (Fig. 132) - potrebnoe waist. Belt stachen in front
crease. The yoke is cut in the shape along with sleeves. Clasp in the middle of the front buttoned. Consumption of fabric for average size of 4 m and a width of 70 cm
Recommended for all sizes.

Preparation of basic patterns dresses

Prepare two identical semi-fitted dress patterns dresses: one for drawing lines of a style of dress (Fig. 133, a), another for a style of sleeve (length of the pattern to the waist line in Fig. 133, b, and C).
When drawing up the patterns to make the following changes:
1) armhole of the dress deepened by 2 cm;
2) the line of the side seam to hold from the middle of the arm openings;
3) from point 2 to hold up the vertical line to touch the line of openings;
4) from points 2 to defer up to the vertical lines 5 cm;
5) to draw through the point of division of the armhole of the back and front.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

Back. The line Rostock to split in half (Fig. 134, a). The breaking point to connect the auxiliary line with a point 5 on the shoulder. This line is split in half and the dividing point right to postpone 1 see Connect breaking point on the line Rostock with points 1, 5 a smooth line. The same line style to apply to the second pattern, designed for sleeves.
Instead of darting at the waist to outline two soft pleats with a depth of 1.5 cm, at a distance of 3 cm from one another.
Before. Line the bottom of the dress extend to the right approximately 8 cm At the hip line to delay right 2 cm (Fig. 134, b) and from the neck through the point 2 to create a new line mid-front to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the dress.
To clasp to add to the right of the neck 3 cm. From point 3 draw a line parallel to the new mid-front to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the dress.
Neckline from shoulder to delay down 6 cm on the right side of the tuck - 8 see Point 8 b and the connecting straight line. On the left side of the tuck to postpone the top 8 cm and the point to connect the auxiliary line with point 5 (on the line of the armhole). The line split in half and from the points of division to carry out the perpendicular length of 0.5 cm to Connect a smooth line point 8; 0,5; 5 and.
The same line style to apply to the second pattern made for sleeves.
From the neck down the middle of the front to postpone down 7 see Points 8 and 7 to connect a smooth line, continue the line to the right until the intersection with the edge of the clasp. The extreme points of the yoke to connect a smooth line.
Outline the loop on the middle of the front: first at the waist, the second in the middle of the yoke. To determine the distance between the loops, and ground loops to divide the interval from T to the top of the loop into three equal parts. Below the waist to outline loop at the same distance from one another. Instead of darting at the waist to outline two soft folds of (see Fig. 134, b).
Preparation of basic patterns sleeves. On the basic pattern sleeves delay length of 50 cm Through the point 50 (Fig. 134, C) to draw a line parallel to the bottom of the sleeve.
The width of the bottom of the sleeve cut is 27 cm (arm circumference measurements, plus 3 cm for loose fit): 24 + 3 = 27 cm
Width of the basic pattern of sleeve is 38 cm
The difference in width of the bottom of the sleeves will be 38 - 27 = 11 cm.
Of 11 cm should be removed in a tuck on the center line of the sleeve 5 cm (5 cm distributed as shown in the figure).
Of the remaining 6 cm 2 cm (1/3 residue) to defer at the front cutoff sleeve, and 4 cm (2/3 of the balance) at the rear of the cut sleeve.
In the midline of the sleeve from the top down to be postponed to 9 cm From the midline to the right and to the left lifts the sleeve to be postponed by 1.5 cm and 1.5 Points and 1.5 to connect with point 9 as straight lines.
Points 2 and R to connect the auxiliary line and from point L to postpone to the left through the elbow 1, see Points R, 1, 2 connect a smooth line.
Tuck in the elbow to identify, as shown in the drawing. Points 4 and 2 are connected by a straight line.
Construction of Raglan sleeves. The main sleeve slitting along the mid-line, tuck the cut. On the prepared pattern backless to the waist to put the back half of the sleeve (Fig. 134, g).
The position of the sleeve is defined by two points: the endpoint of the arm and the point 5 on the shoulder. When applying the sleeve to the armhole, end point of the shoulder to connect with point 1.5 and the line of the top part of the sleeve connected to point 5.
The front half of the sleeve to attach to a prepared pattern of the front. The position of the sleeve (Fig. 134, d) is the same as on the back.
From point 5 to defer down the sleeves for 2 cm (for planting), put brand.
The training patterns. Cut the yoke of the dress. Cut the extra part of the pattern. Close the tuck in the front half of the sleeve.

Layout and cutting

To measure the tissue along the length of the dress, put the middle of the back common thread (Fig. 135).
The remaining fabric is folded in half by a transverse filament. The middle of the front to put a common thread, stepping back from the edge 8 cm to podborta.
Back part of sleeve to put line the elbow common thread, at a distance of 2 cm from the edge.
The front half of the sleeve to put the common thread line of the front crease of the sleeve. The yoke to attach to the sleeve as shown in the figure.
The rest of the pattern pieces be positioned as shown in Fig. 135.
To find all the details of the dress.

Fitting and tailoring

Preparations for the fitting and the fitting.
The rest of the breast tuck of a dress to lay a soft crease. Podbot to bend along the fold inside and baste. Sweep the side sections. Sweep the upper and the lower sections of the sleeves.
Sweep sleeve with back and front dresses, combining marks at the points 2 on the sleeve and b for the dress (see Fig. 134).
Neaten loop. To handle the yoke and neckline. Sew the side sections and sleeves. Hem bottom of sleeves. To vacate sleeves.
Sew on buttons. The front pleats at the waist to vacate zone. Hem the bottom of the dress.