PREPARING FABRIC TO CUTTING 

Tissues that produce different products, have different properties and have different perceptions in the process, wetting, Ironing, give uneven shrinkage after washing. So, before I reveal the product, you must know how to prepare a particular fabric to cutting.
At first the tissue level, i.e., cut sections of fabric on a string, for the cutting was not of the bias of the fabric. Then the fabric deytroyt.
Dekatirovka, i.e. the steam or water is produced to protect the tissue from excessive shrinkage when sewing, and especially to wear.
At home dekatirovka fabric is its moisture and free (without tension) drying.
Cotton and linen cloth soaked in warm water, dried and ironed on the wrong side in shared direction.
Woven fabrics of staple fibers give greater shrinkage, so they put in the water for about 12 - 14 hours. then dry it and Shoe from the inside in shared direction.
Woven fabrics of natural silk (or rather, most of them) do not shrink after wetting. Silk crepe gives greater shrinkage, but Ironing iron their length is almost fully restored. Woven fabrics of natural silk while Ironing do not moisten or iron through a damp cloth.
Wool and wool blend fabric wrap in a dampened and wrung the sheet for 8 - 10 hours;
then Shoe from the inside using a dry cloth.
Bottom line products .......................................4-7
"okata sleeves .................................................1,5
"seam" ....................................................1-2
"the bottom" ....................................................1-5
For collar and cuffs (each side) .......1
the solution tucks ............................................4-5
In the drawings depicting the layout pattern on the fabric, provided the increase in suture for each product.
All the details of the patterns applied to the cloth. First, cut out large parts; collars and cuffs can be cut out after the first fitting, where, trying on the parts of the mock-up fabric, specify their shape.

SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR SEWING 

The adaptations that are necessary when sewing (Fig. 5), includes: cutter, scissors, thimble, centimeter tape, pins, needles.
 

The cutter is used for transferring circuit patterns to the fabric and lines that are fixed on the fittings, with one side of the product to another (for goods of cotton).
Scissors for cutting the fabric should be of medium size, and for finishing work - small with pointed ends.
The thimble should fit the finger size.
The tape (cm) used in the measurement of the shape, layout of patterns, cutting, modeling and sewing.
The pins prick the pattern to the fabric with the layout and cutting and use the fitting items.
The needle should match the thickness of the thread and fabric.
For making drawings of patterns you need to have large sheets of paper, a ruler and a pencil.

HAND AND MACHINE STITCHES 

For making the product must be able to perform basic hand and machine stitches, fastening the two layers or multiple layers of fabric.
The seam consists of a series of stitches made on the machine or by hand with threads corresponding to the fabric thickness and color.
With sewing items, apply the following threads: silk fabrics (crepe de Chine, crepe Georgette, chiffon, etc.), no 80 or silk; cotton cloth (Maya, Batiste, Voile, etc.) - No. 60 - 80; for satin, cotton, staple, fine wool, No. 50; of TEC and tight skirt fabrics No. 40.
Hand stitches and seams
Hand stitches and seams are used to indicate lines of mid-on components, smachivaniya items, the gathering of assemblies that connect the two to podseleniya edges invisible stitches, etc.
The distance between the stitches and the stitch size at the manual welds depends on the purpose of the seam.
Consider the implementation of the basic stitches and seams.
 

Stitch "forward a needle" (Fig. 6). Applied when performing cushioning and a running stitches, gathering Assembly, finishing works (embroidery). Needle pierce the fabric and pulled the thread. From right to left, at a distance equal to the size of the stitch, the needle is again pierced the fabric and
drags the thread on the wrong side, then the front etc the front and inside there are a number of stitches.
For cushioning seam stitch length is 3 - 5 cm with an interval of 0.3 - 0.5 cm When smachivanie straight seams stitch length 1 - 2 cm; when smachivanie curly lines and seams fit stitch length 0.5 - 1 cm, the distance between stitches to 1 cm When smachivanie products from velvet fabric stitch length, same with the front and inside, is 0.5 - 0.7 cm For the gathering Assembly stitch length with front and back side 0,2 - 0,3 cm
Stitch "needle" (Fig. 7). Used for fixing all sour cream seams. Needle pierce the fabric and drag the thread from the wrong side on the front. From left to right, at a distance equal to the size of the stitch, the needle pierces the fabric on the front side inside out (stitching size - not less than 0.5 cm). Then the needle pierce the fabric from back side to front side at a distance of 1 cm to the left of the previous stitch, etc.
 

Stitch machine type stitch (Fig. 8). On the front side stitches resemble machine stitching and applied in the case when the execution of the lines on the car for some reason difficult. This stitch is the same stitch as the "needle", but with no space between stitches from the front side.
 

Stitch a blanket stitch (Fig. 9, a). It is used to protect the edge of the fabric near the seams from fraying threads. The needle pierces the fabric only on the reverse side on the front, left to right, at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge. Thus, the thread lies over the edge of the fabric. The distance between the tufts 0.5 - 1 cm, depending on the friability of tissue.
Stitch "over the edge" (Fig. 9, b). Used when sewing linen for grinding edges, terminations of lace, firmware, and applications. The stitch is done the same way as blanket stitch, but the distance from the edge to puncture the needle is 1 - 2 threads of the fabric, the distance between the stitches is 0.1 - 0.3 cm.
 

Stitch the "loop" (Fig. 10). Applies to the following works: serging loops Welt on underwear and blouses, serging cuts of fabric in the corners, grinding seams lace, serging the cut edges of the seams for bulk fabrics and trim edge children's products, etc. Looped stitches are performed from left to right needle pierce the fabric with the wrong side on the front, do yo yarn on the needle, pulled the thread, then pierce the fabric with the needle from the inside
etc. the distance between the stitches of 0.1 - 0.5 cm.
A hidden blind stitch seam (Fig. 11). Used for filing the bottom of the dress, skirt, jacket, sleeves, collars,attaching podborov, etc. Upon the execution of this seam the edge of the fabric to buckle inside first 0.5 - 1 cm, then the width of the binder and zametyvayut. To stitch was not visible from the front side and the back needle capture portion of the tissue thickness and bent edges make a small stitch on the inner side of bending.
The outdoor blind stitch seam (Fig. 12). Applies only to the filing of underwear. The edge of the fabric bends on 0 5 - 1 cm inside, and then the width of the binder and zametyvayut. Pierce the fabric at the bend swept a binder, taking the needle one thread, and simultaneously, the puncture needle region of a bend of a binder; pull the thread and make the next stitch at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm.
 

Seam Phillips ("goat", "velvet", Fig. 13). Used when sheathing of the bottom of the skirts of thick fabric, during the processing of bending on products of velvet fabric, with hand proshivka pocket (pocket primetyvajut on the front side and sew from the inside by the contour line of the pocket). In addition, the cross-seam is used as adorning for linings and children's dresses.
 

When sheathing the bottom of the product bends the cut edge inside out. The seam was invisible from the front side, the needle capture a part of the thickness of the fabric, then make a small stitch at the hem; the stitches are placed inclined. When you run crosswise of the seam put the stitches from the bottom up. The needle take
3 - 7 strand on the left side seam, and the same with the right, then again left and so on, so that the threads crossed.
Stitches - snares (Fig. 14). Used for transferring the contour lines of the pattern on the fabric and lines that are fixed at the fitting, one end product to another. Stitches-snares perform a running suture with the weakening of the threads on the top layer of fabric. Then both layers of fabric pushing, the thread is stretched and cut between the layers of fabric.
 

Machine stitches and seams

When sewing, the main products are joints (bridging, nastroni, double or reverse, lapped) and podrobnye (narrow and wide).
The seam bridging (Fig. 15). Used for joining parts of articles on the main lines and the lines of the style. When an individual tailoring of the tissue slices grind for sour cream or chalk lines. The edge of the fabric rautureau on two sides, iron on one side or the. "edge".
 

Seam nastroni (Fig. 16). Is used to connect the parts superimposed on one another (pockets, yoke, etc.). The edge of the upper part bends from the inside out, zametyvayut the width of nastrojki and priorivet. Then the upper part is put on the bottom, primetyvajut and scribbled. Width from the edge to the bending lines depend on the style.
 

The seam is double or reverse (Fig. 17). Used for lingerie, children's products, cotton blouses. Detail, folded wrong side inside, smatyvay, exactly at the cut edges, and sew on the front side at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the edge. A running thread is removed, the seam spread along the line of stitching, turn inside out and scribbling for the second time at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from this line.
 

The seam is lapped (Fig. 18). Used when sewing clothes. Details fold right sides inwards and the edge of one part release 0.5 cm, smatyvay and sew at 0.3 cm from the edge (Fig. 18, a). Delete a running thread and straighten the seam on the front side. Released the edge of the seam is folded inside and prostrachivajut again on the edge of the ACC (Fig. 18, b). This seam can be treated in a different way: released 0,5 cm of the fabric to bend and sew the seam together with the ACC.
 

To perform the weld it is necessary to bend the inside edge of 0.5 cm (Fig. 19, a), to stitch by 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge, cut off the excess fabric before stitching. Bend again at 0.3 cm and stitch a second time Fig. 19, b).
Seam podrobnyi wide (Fig. 20). Used for filing the bottom of the underwear and children's dresses. The width of the binder depends on style or type of product. First, the edge bends by 0.5 - 0.7 cm then bends again. Scribbling on the edge of the first bending. Depending on the style of the binder can bend and on the front side.