SKIRT WITH SOFT BOX PLEATS
 

In Fig. 70 depicts a skirt of plaid, box pleats at the waist. The cut of the skirt is recommended for sizes 44 - 46. Consumption of fabric for average size of 1.7 m and a width of 120 cm.

For this style skirt drawing patterns do not.

Box pleats are calculated according to measure waist circumference and scheduled directly on the fabric with the front side (Fig. 71).

Remove the following measurements in inches:

Waist circumference ............. 72
Length side skirts ............. 72

Cut two fabrics at 78 cm, what is the skirt length 72 cm plus 1 cm treatment zone, plus 5 cm on the processing of the bottom of the skirt: 72 + 1 + 5 = 78 cm

The rest of the fabric 14 cm to use for the belt.

To combine two paintings into one wide (with one stitch). The seam resuturing. Hem the bottom of the skirt. Lay the fabric face up. From the top edge of the fabric to measure 1 cm and draw a line with chalk or soap to waist line through the entire piece of fabric.

Determine the desired number of box pleats. In our style 8 box pleats. Depending on the number of box pleats to define their width and depth. To do this, waist circumference 72 cm divide by the number of box pleats: 72 : 8 = 9 cm (width of the box pleat).

Width of fabric for the skirt 120 x 2 - 4 (for seams) = 236 cm

236 - 72 (waist circumference) = 164 cm
164 : 8 = 20 cm (the depth of each counter folds).

Razmilovic folds is done only by the intended waist line.

From right to left at the waist line, measure 2 cm for the seam. From the seam line to measure 1/2 the depth of the inverted pleats: 20 : 2 = 10 cm.
 
Measure the width of the bow 9 cm, then the depth of the inverted pleat 20 cm deep divide in half to determine the middle of the inverted pleats. To calculate the tissue, measuring sequentially the width of the bow and the depth of wrinkles. At the end of radmilovi to measure 1/2 the depth of the folds and 2 cm for the seam. Cover folds just over the waist line, sew the second seam, leaving for fasteners 16 see Handle the rest of the bottom of the skirt. To sew the button. Process the waist of the skirt-waist bodice (the third way).
 

SKIRT CUT "THE SUN"
 

Skirt cut "sun" (Fig. 72) at the waist line smooth, without tucks, radial folds falling from the waist down. Along the hem of the skirt is very wide. Fabric consumption of 3.5 m and a width of 90 cm

The drawing pattern of the skirt is taken the following measurements (in cm):

Semicircle waist .. 38
Length side skirts.......... 72
(The measure of the semicircle of the hips for this skirt are not removed.)
 

Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length (150 - 180 cm) in the middle of this line to put the point a (Fig. 73). From point A down to hold any vertical line (80 - 90 cm). From point A to the right and to the left along a horizontal line and down vertical delay by 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle waist minus 0.5 cm (for all sizes). To put the point T, T1, T2: at = AT1 = AT2 = 38 : 3 - 0,5 = 12 cm.
 
The waist line of the skirt. Points T, T1 and T2 connect the straight dotted lines. Both lines split in half. From point A through the points of divisions to hold a straight arbitrary line (80 - 90 cm). In these lines to postpone for 12 cm and put the points T3, T4.
 
Point T, T3, T2, T4 and T1 to connect a smooth line - waist skirt.
 
Line the bottom of the skirt. From all points on the waist line of the T, T3, T2, T4, T1 to postpone in straight lines the length of the skirt 72 see to Put the points H H1 H2 H3 H4.
 
All points connect smooth lines - line bottom skirt.

Note.Skirt cut "the sun" should be no seams, but its width does not fit even on a fabric width of 140 cm, i.e. the length of the skirt. To participate put-on wedges should not be. On the skirt pattern to outline the seam lines in the middle of the front and rear panels of the skirt or on the line side, or to divide the pattern into several wedges. When cutting the middle of each wedge can be positioned on a straight thread, but not necessarily equity. Wedges can be cut and with different direction threads along the lines of the slices. 

SKIRT CUT "THE SUN" FROM THE WEDGES
 

 
In Fig. 74 depicts a skirt cut "the sun", is constructed of 12 wedges. The bottom of the skirt trimmed with cord. This style can be recommended from the woolen fabric for sizes 44 - 48. Fabric consumption of 2.75 m and a width of 90 cm
 
The flow fabric lining to handle the bottom of the skirt of 1.65 m for a width of 90 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns
 

To prepare the skirt pattern cut "sun" (see Fig. 73). The waist and hem split into 6 equal parts (Fig. 75, a). The dividing point on the waist line to connect points on bottom line straight lines. At a distance of 18 cm from the waist line on these lines to put control of the brand.
 

 
Cut the pattern on the drawn lines. (Each wedge is equal to 1/12 of the width of the skirt, Fig. 75 b.)
 
From the bottom of the wedges on their sides to postpone up the length of the trim is 20 cm, and draw a line parallel to the line of the bottom of the wedges. The lines and line the bottom of the wedges to be divided into four equal parts. Plotting points to connect straight lines to be lines of freezing cord.

Layout and cutting
 

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread. To put six wedges in fabric and make a raise on the seams as shown in Fig. 76.
 
To handle the bottom of the skirt to tailor the lining twelve lower parts of wedges with a width of 20 cm in the direction of the threads on the lining should match the direction of the threads on the wedges skirt.

Fitting and tailoring 

Sweep wedges, exactly them at the waist, control the brand and bottom line. Leave to nesmetnye clasp 16 cm in one of the seams. Try on the skirt.
 
Sew all of the wedges. For processing fasteners to otkroite strap. (Processing of the clasp and sew the corsage set out on page 280).
 
Sew all the sides of the lining. Put the lining on the front side of the skirt tack on the hem and pristroit, leaving unsewn for support cord 0.5 cm to Turn the lining inside out to cover at the bottom of the skirt. The free edge of the lining tuck and stitch along the edge, and then tack it to the skirt.
 
For support, cord to do double stitching. The distance between the lines is equal to 0.5 cm.
 
From the run of the thread to measure in either side of 0.25 cm and defer on the front side.
 
The cord is threaded from the bottom up and attach to the lining.

SKIRT CUT "THE BELL"
 

 
Skirt cut the "bell" (Fig. 77) has a single seam at the middle of the front or rear of a panel. At the waist the skirt is smooth with no Darts, bottom line is moderately advanced. The tails are falling from the hip line.
 
This style can be recommended for all sizes. The fabric consumption for the average size of 2 m and a width of 100 see

Construction drawing patterns 

The drawing pattern of the skirt is taken the following measurements in inches:

Semicircle waist ........... 38
The length of the skirt ........................... 72
(The measure of the semicircle of the hips, this casual skirt is not removed.)

To construct a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 78), extending sides of the angle 80 - 90 cm.
 
The waist line of the skirt. From point A on both sides of the corner to save half of the semicircle measurements waist plus 5 cm (for all sizes). To put the points T and T1: at = AT1 = 38 : 2 + 5 = 24 cm
 
Points T and T1 to connect a straight dotted line and divide it in half. From point A through the point of division draw a straight construction line of arbitrary length (80 - 90 cm). On this line lay from point A a distance equal to the segment A T, i.e. 24 cm, and put an end T2; connecting the points T, T2, T1 smooth line, get the waistline of the skirt.
 
Line the bottom of the skirt. From the points T, T2,T1 carried by straight lines to measure the skirt length on the removed measure. To dot N, H2, H1: TN - Т2Н2 = Т1Н1 = 72 cm.
 
Connect the dots N, H2, H1 a smooth line, get the line of the bottom of the skirt.

Layout, cutting, fitting and sewing 

Fold the fabric in half with the fold in a transverse filament. The pattern to put the middle of the back or front cloth skirts (depending on style) to the fold of the fabric. The seam must pass the common thread. Transverse extensions -cut skirts are not allowed.
 
Sweep seam style simple internal seam or surface crease. To cover the bottom of the skirt. To prepare grosgrain tape or belt. To try.
 
Sew the seam or Topstitch the fold, leaving not sewn 16 - 18 cm for the clasp. Hem the bottom of the skirt and ironed. To treat the waist.

SKIRT CUT "THREE QUARTERS OF THE SUN"
 

 
Skirt cut "three quarters of the sun" (Fig. 79) you can cut out with two seams (front and back) or wedges.
 
The construction patterns similar to the construction of dress patterns, skirts cut "sun" and so the abbreviated.
 
To build the pattern removed following measurements (in cm):

Semicircle waist ........... 38
Length side skirts .................. 72
 
Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length. To put the point a (Fig. 80). From point A down at the right angle to make a vertical line.
 
From point A to postpone the left, right, down, straight lines 1/2 of the semicircle waist minus 4 cm to Put the points T, T1, T2: at = AT1 = AT2 = 38 : 2 - 4 = 15 cm.
 
Points T, T2, T1 connect by dashed lines. These lines split in half. From point A through the points of division to hold a straight line. From point A on the conducted direct delay by 15 cm, to put the points T3, T4: AT3 = AT4 = at = 15 cm.
 
Connect the dots T, T3, T2, T4 smooth line waist. From these points postpone down straight the skirt length is 72 cm and put the points N, N1, N2, N3; to connect them with a smooth line - line bottom skirt.