WOMENS DRESS 

For pattern making women's easy dress, you must first build a basic drawing of the pattern on the removed measure. Then take a large sheet of paper, attach it with buttons to the table and put on top and pin drawing back. Cutter to hold along the contour lines of the drawing (the middle of the back, the sprout, shoulder, armhole, side, tuck, bottom) and auxiliary lines (the circumference of the chest, waist and hips).
 
After this, departing from the circled drawing back into 8 - 10 cm, pin on paper drawing of the front and the same cutter to hold all contour and auxiliary lines.
 
Along the contour lines formed on a sheet of paper, cut out main pattern of the back and front. (Fig. 81).

Sleeves, cuffs, pockets, collars and other details of the dress are built separately from the main pattern, cut along the contour lines of the drawing or transfer on a tracing-paper. If items are scheduled for the basic pattern, then they should translate on a tracing-paper or a circle cutter and cut on the marks obtained on the paper.
 
The main pattern has no lines style. Darts in the chest and waist do not belong to the style of dress; they needed to make dress forms in accordance with the bulge of the chest and a notch at the waist line.
 
Main pattern prepare separately for dresses poluprilegayuschy and surrounding. The difference in the construction of these patterns depends on the size of the allowance for loose fit.
 
For dresses with cap and long and short sleeve main pattern also prepare separately.
 
For the manufacture of women's easy dresses various styles on main pattern is applied to a desired line style on the drawing or model. When applying the lines of style is necessary to determine the shape of the neckline, chest Darts in the direction, the height and shape of the yoke, undercuts, direction of the Darts at the waist, the cut of the skirt, sleeves, collar, etc.
 
Sometimes when applying different lines of the style need to additionally glue pattern paper.
 
In most cases, the line style have an arbitrary direction and dimensions depending on the features of the physique, height, range of fabrics and taste of the designer.
 
When developing patterns, asymmetrical styles, the main pattern is made half-figures, and full on the left and right side.
 
After applying the style lines of the pattern is cut, pushing for the allowance of the Assembly, folds, drape. Tuck closed in the primary direction and open along the intended line of cut.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING OF THE BASIC PATTERN SEMI-FITTED DRESS 

In the drawing the main pattern semi-fitted dress taken the following measurements (in cm):

The semicircle of the neck......................... 18
>> breast . . . . . . . . . . . 48
>> waist ...................... 38
>> hips . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Shoulder width (control measure)... 19
Back length to waist ....................... 38
"dresses .................................. 108
Height bust .................................. 32,5
Front length to waist (test measure) 51
"shoulder....................................... 13
 
Allowance for free customized fit when you build drawing of the main pattern semi-fitted dress is (in cm):

Line the circumference of the chest.......... 4
""" " waist.......... 2
"" " hips . . . . . 3

the plan 

Draw a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 82).
 
The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the length of the dress: an = А1Н1 = 108 cm
 
The horizontal lines of the rectangle correspond to the width of the dress is equal to the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm for loose fit (for all sizes): AA1 = НН1 = 48 + 4 = 52 see
 
The depth of the armhole. From point A to defer down the line to the middle of the back of the semicircle of 1/3 of the chest plus 4 cm (for all sizes) and place a point G: AG = 48: 3 + 4 = 20 cm.
 
Line the circumference of the chest. From point G to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical line of the rectangle and put the point G1. Video ГГ1 and will line the circumference of the chest.
 
The waist line. From point A to postpone upside down measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 38 cm
 
From point T to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical line of the rectangle and put the point T1. Video ТТ1 will be the waist line.
 
Line of the hips. From point T to postpone down vertically 18 cm and place the point B: TB = 18 cm (for all sizes).
 
From point B to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical line of the rectangle and put the point B1. Video BB1 will be the line of the hips.
 
The width of the back. From point G to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest width of the back is about 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm (for all sizes), and put the point G2. Back width ГГ2 = 48: 3 + 3 = 19 cm

Note. For conditionally proportional figure the width of the back, postponed by the calculation must coincide with the removed control measure. If this width is not the same, the shape has a deviation from the relatively proportional .
 
From point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A2. Line Г2А2 divided into four equal parts.
 
The width of the openings. From a point G2 to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast, and put an end G3. The width of the openings Г2Г3 = 48: 4 = 12 cm.
 
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A3.
 
Auxiliary line side. From a point G2 to defer to the right 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put an end G4: Г2Г4 = 12: 3 = 4 see
 
Through the point G4 draw a vertical line up the length of 0.5 cm down to the intersection with the horizontal line НН1 - bottom of the dress. At the intersection with the waist to put a point T2 with the line of hip point B2, with a bottom line point of H2.
 
Based on the drawing plan to build drawings back and front.

Construction drawing of the back 

The width of the blade. From the point A (Fig. 83) to defer to the right horizontally the width of the sprout is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes), and supply point. The width of Rostock AA = 18: 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
 
Height. From point a to hold up a vertical line equal to 2 cm, to put the point A1. Then the line to proceed up to 0.5 see Point 0.5 and And connect a smooth line, as shown in the drawing.
 
Shoulder line. For the slope of the shoulder from point A, to defer down vertically 2 cm From point A1 to hold right through the point 2 the straight line is equal to measure the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm on the landing shoulder seam for loose fit of the blades, and put a point P: а1П = 13 at + 1.5 = 14.5 cm.
 
This line is divided into three parts and from a point 0,5 to hold a smooth line to the first point of division on the left. The line joining the points 0.5 and P, will be the shoulder line.
 
Line openings. From point G2 to draw a line equal to 1/4 of the width of the openings, and dividing a right angle in half: 12:4 =3 cm.
 
The line of openings to hold from the point P of the concave line, tangent to the lines А2Г2 between the middle and lower points, then point 3 to point of 0.5.
 
Line the side seam. Line of the side seam at the waist has the tuck and seam allowance at the hips. To dress nice fit figure, it is necessary to calculate the depth of the tucks at the waist and seam allowance at the hips.
 
Below are the calculations Darts and seam allowance at the hip line for the back and front.
 
To calculate the depth of the tucks at the waist need to find the difference between the width of the product (52 cm) and measure
semicircle waist (38 cm) with the addition of free customized fit (2 cm): 52 - (38 + 2) = 12 see
 
The obtained difference divided by the number of tucks at the waist, i.e., at 4: 12: 4 = 3 cm.
 
The depth of the side tuck is 1/4 of the difference plus 1 cm, i.e. 3 + 1 = 4 see
 
The depth of the tuck on the back equal to 1/4 of the difference, i.e. 3 cm.
 
The depth of the first tuck on the waist line of the front is equal to 1/4 of the difference, i.e. 3 cm.
 
The depth of the second tuck by the waist line of the front is equal to 1/4 the difference minus 1, i.e. 3 - 1 = 2 cm.
 
To calculate the allowance on the hip line it is necessary to find the difference between the size of the semicircle of the hips with the addition of free customized fit and width of the product: (52 + 3) - 52 = 3 see
 
The resulting difference of 1/3, i.e. 1 cm, attributed to the extension of the back at the hip line, and 2/3, i.e., 2 cm - on the extension front.
 
For building line of the side seam on this calculation it is necessary from the point T2 to delay the left waist and 2 cm (half the depth of the side tuck), from the point B2 to the right at the hip line 1 see For brace line of the side seam at the bottom to defer from the point D2 to the right 5 cm.
 
Point 5 and 1 connecting straight line, which is to continue higher over the hips 9 cm and Then connect the dots 9 and 2 on the waist line smooth line, points 2 and 0.5 at the line of openings is a straight line.
 
From point 2 (at the waist) to postpone by a line drawn the length of the skirt 70 cm (the difference between the standards of length and length backless to waist): 108 - 38 = 70 cm.
 
The line joining the points 70; 1; 9; 2; 0,5, will be the line of the side seam of the back.
 
The bottom line is. Point 70 is smoothly joined with a horizontal line of the rectangle.
 
Tuck at the waist on the back. From point T to postpone the right waist 7 cm (width Rostock plus 0.5 cm): 6,5+0,5 =7 cm.
 
From point 7 the right to postpone the tuck depth 3 cm is to divide This distance in half and through the point of division draw a vertical middle line of the tuck up, not bringing it to 6 cm before the line ГГ2 and down the length of the 12 see Point 12 b and connect the straight lines with dots 7 and 3.

Construction drawing of the front 

Length of the front. From point A1 (see Fig. 83) continue up the vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically to 1/2 of the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes) and put a point IN: Г1В = 48: 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm.
 
From point T1 to postpone down 1 cm Distance from point V to point 1 will be the length of the front bodice.
 
The resulting length of the dress should be clarified. For conditionally proportional figure, this distance must be removed, measure the length of the front minus the length of the germ of curve. If this distance will not be equal to the specified value, then the figure, which is a pattern that has a deviation from the relatively proportional. In this case, the length should be corrected, as set out on page 111.
 
Width of the neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line with a length of 12 - 15 cm to Postpone the width of the neck equal to the width of Rostock, and put the point B1. Width of the neck BB1 = AA = 6.5 cm.
 
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertically 1/3 of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm (for all sizes) and put a point B2. The depth of the neck BB2 = 18: 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
 
From the point In to draw a line equal to the width of the neck plus 0.5 cm and dividing a right angle in half, and put an end Q3: ВВ3 = 6,5 + 0,5 = 7 cm.
 
Points B1, B3, B2, connect a smooth line.
 
Length shoulder to tuck. From point B1 to defer to the left horizontally 4 cm (for all sizes).
 
From point 4 to postpone down 1 cm (for all sizes). Points 1 & B1 connect by a straight line, which will be the length of the shoulder to tuck.
 
Breast tuck. From the point G1 to defer to the left horizontally a distance equal to 9.5 cm (sum of the width of the neck and the shoulder length to tuck minus 1 cm and the tilt tuck), and put an end G5: Г1Г5 = 6,5 + 4 - 1 = 9.5 cm.
 
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line, which is the right side of the tuck. The distance from the point B1 to the point G5 should be removed measure the height of the bust minus the length of the germ of curve: 32,5 - 7,5 = 25 cm.
 
If there is a discrepancy with the measurement, it is necessary to shorten or lengthen a straight line from point G5.
 
Point 4 to connect the auxiliary line with the upper point of division on the line А2Г2. The width of the armhole - cut Г2Г3 - split in half and the dividing point to hold up the vertical construction line to the intersection with the upper auxiliary line and supply point P1. From the point P1 to the right (auxiliary lines) to postpone 9 cm (length of shoulder-to-measure) minus 4 cm (cut the shoulder from the neck to tuck): 13 - 4 = 9cm.
 
From the point G5 to hold up through the 9 point a straight line equal to the right side of the tuck, and put the point P2. Line G5 L2 is the left side of the tuck.
 
Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. For slope of shoulder from point P1 to defer down subsidiary
lines 3 cm (for all sizes), point 3 and P2 connecting a straight line. From the point P2 by a line drawn to postpone 9 cm, i.e. the length of the tuck from the shoulder to the armhole, and put an end L3: П2П3 = 9 cm.
 
Line openings. From the point G3 to postpone upward 1/4 line Г3А3 and to put a point On that connecting point P3 by a straight line. This line is split in half and the dividing point right to postpone 1 cm and Then from point G3 to draw a line equal to 1/4 of the width of the openings minus 0.5 cm and dividing a right angle in half: 12: 4 - 0,5 = 2,5 cm
 
From the point G3 to delay the left horizontal segment equal to Г3О, and to put the point O1: О1Г3 = ОГ3.
 
Combining a smooth concave line of a point P3; 1;; 2,5; O1; 0.5, we obtain the line of openings.
 
Line the side seam. To defer from the point T2 to the right 2 cm, i.e. half the depth of the side tuck, from the point B2 to the left - 2 cm, from the point H2 to the left - 6 cm.
 
Point b and 2 on the hips connecting the straight line and continue it above the hip line on the 9 see Points 9 and 2 on the waist line to connect a smooth line. Then point 2 to the waist line to connect with a point of 0.5 with a straight line.
 
From point 2 (at the waist) to defer down the skirt length equal to the length of the side seam in the drawing of the back, i.e. 70 cm.
 
The line joining the points 70; 2; 9; 2; 0,5, will be the line of the side seam.
 
Clarifying the waist line . Point 1 on the line of mid front and 2 on the waist line to connect a smooth line.
 
Clarification to the hips. From point B1 to defer down in the middle of the front 1 cm and points 1 and 2 on the hip line to connect a smooth line.
 
The bottom line is. From the point H1 to continue the line down to 1 cm; point 1 and 70 on the line of the side seam of the front to connect a smooth line.
 
Darts at the waist front. Front of dress has two Darts: the first on the center chest and the second to the left from the first side.
 
The distance from the middle of the front.before the first tuck on the waist line equal to the distance between the points G1 and G5 minus 1.5 cm (for all sizes): 9,5 - 1,5 = - 8 see
 
Points 8 and G5 to connect a straight line. From the point G5 to defer down by a line drawn 6 cm from point 8 to the left - 3 cm Point b and 8 to connect with a straight line. The depth of the tucks. 3 cm split in half and the dividing point down to make a vertical midline tuck a length of 12 cm and Point 12 to connect with points 3 and 8 straight lines.
 
For the second tuck have a vertical line А3Г3 continue down to the intersection with the waist line. From the point of intersection to defer to the right and to the left by 1cm and continue the vertical line down to 12 cm From point G3 to delay down 6 see Point 12 b and connect the straight lines with points 1 and 1 on the waist line.

The change of drawing a pattern taking into account features of a Constitution 

When creating drawings patterns for steep and pereghibati figures it is necessary to consider their peculiarities (see Fig. 1) and to amend some calculations.

Oblique figure

The depth of the armhole. Armhole should increase, which from point A to defer down 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm and plus 1 - 2 cm at the slope on the back: 48: 3 + 4 + 1 = 21 see
 
The width of the back. To postpone the width of the back not on the calculation, and on the removed measure (the width of beveled back ГГ2 equal measure).
 
Length of the front. To delay the length not by calculation, and taken measure minus the length of the sprout. Measure the length of the front to defer from point 1 on the waist line up vertically and put the point B.

Parageusia figure 

The depth of the armhole. Cut AG must be equal to 1/2 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm minus 1 cm: 48: 3 + 4 - 1 = 19 see
 
The width of the back. Cut ГГ2 should be equal to the measure of the width of the back.
 
Length of the front. Defer from point 1 (at the waist) up the vertical measurements of the length of the front minus the length of the sprout.

Construction drawing the main pattern of narrow single-joint sleeves 

In the drawing the main pattern of narrow single-joint sleeve taken measurements (in cm):
 
Sleeve length ............... 60
to elbow .......... 33
Wrist circumference......18
 
To build a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 84).
 
The vertical line of the rectangle is 60 cm to measure length sleeves: an = А1Н1 = 60 cm.
 
Horizontal lines corresponding to the width of the sleeves is equal to the sum of the semicircle of 1/3 of breast plus
2 cm (for all sizes) multiplied by 2: AA1 = НН1 = (48:3+2) 2=36 see
 
The horizontal lines of the rectangle divided into four equal parts and the opposite points of division connect the straight lines. Line НН1 the first point of division on the right, denoted H2.
 
In the middle of the line AA1 to put an end to high point of crown sleeves.
 
The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A on a vertical line down to defer 3/4 the depth of the armhole of the dress minus 1 cm and place the point R: AR = 20: 4 3 - 1 = 14 cm.
 
From point R to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1.
 
Line of lifts the shoulders. Points P and P1 to connect to a point In straight lines. At the intersection with the lines of the elbow and the front folds to put the points O and O1.
 
Each of the inclined cut RO, S, VO1 and О1Р1 split in half. The distance from point R to the point of division to divide again in half and from the points of division to delay down 0.5 cm.
 
From the point Of delay up to 1.5 cm.
 
From the points of division to postpone perpendicular to the segments: S up 2 cm, VO1 up to 1.5 cm, down 2 cm О1Р1
 
To hold a smooth curve - the line of the top part of the sleeve, as shown in the drawing through the point R; 0,5; the breaking point; 1,5; 2; V; 1,5; O1;
 
Line of the elbow. From point b to delay vertically down the measure length sleeves to the elbow 33 cm 33 Through the point draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical lines of the rectangle. At the intersection with the left side of the rectangle put a point L.
 
The width of the sleeve hem. Sleeve width at hem equal measure the wrist circumference of 18 cm plus 2 cm for loose fit: 18 + 2 = 20 cm
 
The difference between the width of the sleeve at the top and wide sleeve at the bottom is 16 cm: 36 - 20 = 16 cm
 
From the point H1 to defer to the left along a horizontal line 1/3 of the obtained difference and put an end H3:
Н1Н3 = 16: 3 = 5.3 cm
 
From point N to defer to the right on a horizontal line 2/3 of the found difference and put an end H4.
НН4 = (16 : 3) x 2 = 10.7 cm
 
The seam of the front side sleeve. Point Р1Н1 to connect with a straight line; to defer from the point of intersection with Lily of the elbow to the left 1 cm, from point N3 up 2 see a smooth line Connecting the points P1, 1, 2, we get the seam line of the front side sleeve.
 
The seam of the back side of the sleeve. From point L to defer right at the elbow 2 cm Point P and 2 are connected by a straight line. Points 2 and H4 to connect the auxiliary straight line and divide it into three equal parts. From the bottom division to defer to the right 1 see Point 2, upper breaking point, point 1 and H4 connect a smooth line.
 
Through the elbow and slightly below outline two Darts by 1 cm.
 
The bottom line is. From the point H2 to defer up to 3 cm Line the bottom of the sleeves to pass through the points 2, 3, H4 a smooth curve, as shown in the drawing.
 
Clarification of the line of the front crease of the sleeve. Hem sleeves from point 2 to delay 1/4 of the width of the sleeves and put the point H5. The dotted line connecting points N5 and O1 get a line of front fold of the sleeve.