Dress from wool or cotton (sizes 44 - 60), one-piece (Fig. 33). In the middle of the front cloth one-way pleat, passing in the zipper. Waist and two Darts. Back straight. Welt pocket with leaflets or valve. Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter. The bottom sleeves finished with cuffs or fur. Collar one-piece with sides. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 34) 

a Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses (see Fig. 3). 

 The front panel (Fig. 34, a). From the depth of the neck down to postpone the 6 cm point 6 to connect the top of the neck continuing the line for the top of it to the width of Rostock plus 1 cm i.e. 8 cm From the point at a right angle to the right to defer the width of the rack (4 - 5 cm). From the top of the neck to the right to set aside 10 - 12 cm From point 4 to 6 to draw a line (to the top of the neck) parallel to the line terminations of the collar to sprout, continuing her smooth line to a point 10 to 12.

From the depth of the neck down to defer to the waist 18 - 20 cm and to the right for entry of a fastener 2,5 cm From the obtained point to draw a line parallel to the line of the middle of the front cloth of the dress to the bottom. Unfastened portion of the collar, i.e., point 10 - 12, linking with point of 2.5. Waist line length from clasp to continue the right for one-sided folds to 8 cm.

For the design of the valve in the first line of the tuck to postpone 7 - 8 cm from point 7 - 8 left - the length of the valve, i.e. 14 - 16 cm, and from a point 14 - 16 down - the width of the valve, i.e., 4 - 5 cm From point 4 to 5 to draw a line, parallel and equal in length to the top of the line valve. Cut 4 - 5 split in half and the dividing point left to postpone 2 cm to place the valve, as shown in Fig. 34, and. 

Instead of the valve you can make a pocket with leaves. Width and length of leaves equal to the valve size. The bottom line is valve is a place of Tachibana leaves. Shape leaves as desired (Fig. 34, b).

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 34.) 

 3аднее the cloth is put to the bend of the fabric and cut out a basic pattern unchanged. 

 The front panel to carve out, pushing the pattern of the fold of the fabric or edges in the half-width of a unilateral folds (8 cm) on the skirt. Then put the pattern narrowed down the sleeve in the expanded view of the fabric, folded in half face inward. Equity the thread should pass along the sleeves. 

Podkraj of podborta and the top of the collar shown by hachures in Fig. 34, and. Width podborta at the shoulder cut is equal to 3 to 4 cm, and waist - 6 - 7 see the Direction of grain lines of the upper and lower collar should be the same (skiving podborta allowed one or two times at 2 - 3 cm below the loop). Small details to sort, using the free space between large subject of saving tissue. The direction of the grain lines on the pattern should closely match the direction of the grain lines of the fabric. All the parts laid out on the fabric and outline with a sharpened chalk. The seam shown in Fig. 34.

This dress with fabric width of 100 cm required two lengths plus the length of the sleeve plus 8 - 10 cm, while the width of the fabric 150 cm - one length plus the length of the sleeve plus 8 - 10 see 

Sewing 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front panels of dresses, mid-sleeve and waistline seam cushioning. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the shoulder Darts from the slices to the end, tuck to press in the side of the neck or resuturing. 

4. Baste and sew the Darts in the pulley-block, to press them to the middle of the front and rear panels.

5. Baste shoulder seams on the back, Posiva shoulder seam. When smachivanie to combine the top of the neck with the height of the sprout. 

6. Baste and sew lower collar (podvorotni) in the middle, the seam resuturing. Attach the middle of the back to the middle of the bottom of the collar and metati it to sprout. In the angle of the shoulder seams to make the notch, not dorezaya to the top of the neck 0.3 cm. Sew shoulder seams, starting from the armhole of the left shoulder, at the same time vracheva collar in Rostock. Shoulder seams to press in the back side, seam podvorotnya in the direction of the collar.

7. Baste side seams on the back, from the armhole down, combining the control points. Sew on the shelf. 

8. Loop to handle one or two obrazkami (Fig. 35). 

 Processing loop one facing. Make the layout of the loops on the front side of the product. The incision is transverse or oblique loop to identify the line mid front towards the edge of podborta 0.5 cm, the remaining length of the buttonhole - side of the cut, the cut of the equity loop through the middle of the front. The length of the loop to do is the size of the buttons plus 0.3 cm, noting its two parallel lines and one transversal (cut loop). Apply line marking loops frequent slip-stitches. 

For processing loops to take the facing length equal to the length of the loop plus 2 - 3 cm width 4 5 cm the Middle of the piping to make strictly on the lines of the face inward (Fig. 35, a). To stitch a loop on the back of it, departing in each direction at 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the intended line of the buttonhole. Make a slit in the center of the loop, starting from the middle and not dorezaya to the end 0.5 - 0.7 cm, and in the corners to make the notch, not reaching suture of 0.1 cm (Fig. 35, b). To turn the facing towards the inside of the product, lower the piping from the piping to the width of the loop so as to Kant, with both sides closed to the width of the loop.The edges of the edging from the front side to seal the slanted stitches. At the end of the loop tabs to secure cross stitching, prostracii again in the same place. Pritority the loop from the inside. Slotting podbot (the crease) against the middle of the loop. The edges bend inwards to the width of edging and hemming by hand to the facing (Fig. 35, in).

 Processing loop two obrazkami. Markup loop to do the same as in the loop with one facing. To handle such loops to take two piping length equal to the size of the loop plus 2 - 3 cm, width 2 - 3 cm Piping length to fold in half wrong side inside, priotity, then folded along fold to one side and tack from the fold to the desired width of the loop (Fig. 35, g). For example, when the width of the edging 0.5 cm need to sweep piping, departing from the fold to 0.4 cm, spread to both sides, the facing and put a line of tacking it on the chalk line of the buttonhole on the product and tack on a string of smachivaniya of obrazek.To pristroit piping strictly half the distance from brooms to bend, and lines should be parallel and equal in length. At the end of the lines of thread fasten (tie). Cut the loops from the inside of the product in the middle between the lines, starting the incision from the middle of the loop. The remaining processing is the same as in the loop with one facing.

9. To handle Welt pocket with leaflets. The pattern of the valve pocket to find the piece of paper with the addition to the seams, sew unfastened by her, to turn out, straighten seams.

The leaves can be cut out along with the sacking of the pocket (Fig. 34). The top edge of the burlap. bend, falling away from trimming the edges to the width of the joint plus the width of the leaves. Folded inside out inside the upper leaf with the lower cut together with burlap, and oblachat the ends of the leaves. On the front side of the product caused by line terminations leaves to put her obraznymi edges of the pocket's inside out. If leaves are cut without sacking, on the lower part of it to lay burlap face and pritchet simultaneously with leaves.

The second part of the burlap to impose also face inward and pritchet parallel to the line of primaqiune leaves (the distance between the stitches 1 cm). The slit pockets make on the inside, not dorezaya to the end of the seam 1 cm, and make the notch. Burlap to turn inside out, straighten corners and priotity. The ends of the pockets and corners from the inside to secure the double reverse stitching at the same time grinding off the burlap. Unfastened ends of the leaves Topstitch or sew hidden stitches. One end of it can be vacate in a tuck.

10. Lay one-way pleat in the middle front of the cloth. At the end of the zipper seam allowance to the fold to secure the cross stitching. 

11. Baste and sew the collar in the middle, the seam resuturing (if there are dolacki, sew them, seams to resaturate).

12. Fold the upper and lower collar face inside, combining a mid-top collar with the bottom, to equalize the sections, tack, propositiva in the corners unfastened the top part of the collar. Sew lower collar, starting from the bottom right shelves. To turn on the front side, seam to resaturate, to rectify it on the rack and on the Board to release the roll from the top of the collar to the first loop, and then to the waist line from the shelves. To sweep away the collar and the edge of a Board to iron. Cut the starboard side at the waist to join with a seam allowance on the fold crosswise stitches.On podborta to penetrate the loop. Podbot but the lines of the cut loops to bend inside width of the edging and hem with hidden stitches.

13. To handle the lower section of the sleeve facing podkralas, whether in equity or cross thread. The width obtachki 4 - 5 cm, and its length equal to the width of the bottom of the sleeves plus 2 cm for the seam. Sew the ends of otacek, stitch resuturing. The second section of piping to bend towards the inside by 0.5 cm and fold pristroit from 0.2 cm to Tack the facing face side to the front side of the bottom of the sleeves, equalizing sections, and pricecat the facing seam with the width of 0.5 cm Seam primaqiune to resaturate. Fold the facing towards the inside of the sleeve, to release the roll from the sleeve by 0.1 - 0.2 cm Sweep roll and press.To sew the piping to the sleeve with hidden stitches.

14. To votate and vacate sleeves in armhole. 

15. Hem the bottom to iron the dress.