Dress of wool or silk in solid color or small patterns (sizes 48 - 60), one-piece. 


On the left panel is a Welt pocket with flap unfastened. 


Back straight. 


Sleeve one-piece, three-quarter, narrowed down. 


Collar - telekrona of the season. 


The right part of the collar goes to the pocket, and on the left made by valve, attached a button and loop Welt to pull scarf. 


A dress of this style is recommended for full and proportionally folded pieces. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 83)


Style developed on the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with attached short sleeve and gusset. 


 The front panel (Fig. 83, a) 


the depth of the neck at the mid front to delay down 3 cm and that point connect with the top of the neck continuing the line to the width of Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. 7.5 - 8 cm From point of 7.5 - 8 at right angles to these lines to postpone the width of the collar, i.e., 8 - 10 cm, left 2 cm.


On the left shelf in the first line of the tucks down from the waist line to delay 5 cm, and the depth of the neck at the middle of the front - 13 see the Top of the neck to connect with 13 points, 5. Received lines from the top of the neck down to postpone 15 cm, then from point 15 to the right - the width of the collar, i.e., 8 - 10 cm Issue unfastened portion of the collar, as shown in Fig. 83. 


 Line the entrance to the pocket.


From the waist line on the left side to cut the shelves down to defer 8 - 10 cm and the resulting point is connected to point 5. The remainder of tackle Darts can be transferred to the side cut and remove or leave non-migrated, due to what happens laggard pocket. Valve width from a point 8 - 10 7 cm From point 7 draw a line parallel to the top line.


To the left shelf to build the top (Fig. 83, b) the collar with the valve on the bottom of the lower collar. For this pattern to move the cutter or through a thin paper the shape of the lower collar of the left shelves, to trace on paper, then cut out the pattern along the line terminations to postpone the width of the Rostock plus 1 cm, i.e., 7.5 cm From the point of 7.5 to postpone 12 - 13 cm and draw a line to its intersection with the departure line of the collar. The resulting line is split in half and the dividing point delay down to 4 cm to Make a Cape as shown in Fig. 83 b.


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 84) 


 Back panel be cut out of the basic pattern unchanged. 


 The front panel (Fig. 84, a). For applying the pattern lines to cut. With the pattern the front piece of cloth to move the cutter or using thin paper in the form of the valve, cut it, bend in the direction of the entrance line to the pocket and squeeze the fabric together with the front panel of the dress. The pattern on the fabric to put to the equity thread was in the middle of the front.


Make podkraj the top of the collar to the right shelves and flap pockets along with sacking. 


Podkraj for machining valve pockets need to be larger than the main parts 0.5 cm 


Left shelf (Fig. 84, b) to carve out the pattern with length up to the pulley-block tuck on the right shelf with the gain at the lower cut for the burlap pocket 14 - 16 cm (optional). To carve out a upper-collar in two parts for the left shelves (Fig. 84, V, g). 


The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 84. 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels and a waist seam cushioning.

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Loop to handle one or two obrazkami on the front panel of the dress. 

4. Handle flap pockets podkralas the facing. Fold the facing and the valve face inside, tack and pritchet, nadsech fabric in the corners. Resuturing the seam, fold the facing towards the wrong side, straighten the seam, releasing the roll from the piping by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, sweeping up and priotity. 

5. Baste and sew tackle Darts on the front and rear panels of the dress, to press towards the middle of the front and rear panels.

6. Baste and sew lower collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. 

7. To impose the right panel of the dress on the left shelf, aligning the middle of the front of the right shelves left and the snare at the entrance line to the pocket and the waist, to fasten with pins. 

8. Baste shoulder seams and the top seam of sleeves, collar votati lower in Rostock. Sew shoulder seams, sleeve seam, collar vracheva at the same time in Rostock. Baste the side seams to the notch the gusset. 

9. Handle loop to pull the scarf one or two obrazkami Cape collar top-left shelf.

10. Processing podkralas facing the Cape of the collar, fold the facing and upper collar facing to inside, tack and pritchet, cut the fabric in the corners. The seam resuturing, to bend the facing on the front side, releasing the roll from the top of the collar 0.1 - 0.2 cm to Impose the upper part of the collar to the Cape at the bottom, combining the main lines of the pattern and tack.

11. Sew upper collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. Sweep the upper and lower collar face inward, pritchet seam width 0.7 cm, the seam resuturing. Remove the collar on the front side, releasing the chute from the upper 0.1 - 0.2 cm, the second cut of the collar to bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, blaze line 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. For the sprout to sew the upper collar to the seam primaqiune the bottom and on the shelf to attach hand stitches (5 - 6 stitches after 5 - 6 cm).

12. Sew the remainder of the pulley-block at the end of the tuck pocket on the front panel of the dress, at the same time grinding off the burlap pocket. 

13. Baste and sew the side seams, metati and vacate the gusset from the side of the bodice. 

14. To handle the lower section of the sleeve facing the transverse width of 4 - 5cm, folded it and sleeve inside out, to tack, sew the ends of otacek, stitch resuturing. To pritchet obtachku, bend towards the inside, releasing the roll from the sleeve by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometti. Seam priotity, the second section of piping to bend 0.7 - 1 cm and hem to sleeve concealed stitches.

15. Hem the bottom of the dress, to iron and to sew.