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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Blouse casual soft shape without a shoulder seam and a straight skirt

Blouse striped cotton or plain fabric (sizes 46 - 52). 


The front part of the bodice and sleeve cut on the bias yarns, forming the pattern "Christmas trees". 


The clasp on the strap. 


Three-quarter sleeve with soft pleats at cuff men's shirts. 


Collar - sew front. 


Straight skirt with soft pleats instead of Darts. 


Blouse this style is not recommended for large sizes.


Drawing style lines on the pattern of the blouse (Fig. 218) 


the Style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi sleeve and the undercut in the armhole. 


 The shelf (Fig. 218, a). To move the shoulder Darts in the neck to apply a line of cut from top of neck to end of shoulder tuck. To deepen the neck in the middle of the shelves on 1 see


 the Collar (Fig. 218, b). Line terminations is equal to 19 cm (posh 18 + 1 = 19). From point 19 to defer up to 12 cm and from point 12 to the left - 5 cm stand collar must be 4 cm From point 19 up to defer 3 see Point 3 connect a smooth line with the line terminations, and then straight to the point 5. Point 5, 4 to connect a smooth line. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the blouse (Fig. 219)


For cutting to take the pattern of the bodice with tselnokrajnimi sleeve and the undercut in the armhole, the fabric should be the width 90 - 100 cm Folded fabric in the transverse direction twice, put back (Fig. 219, a) middle of the fold of the fabric (the back is held by a transverse filament), the width of Rostock at the shoulder cut of the back to delay 11 - 12 cm and Then attach the pattern shelf (Fig. 219, b) so that the shoulder cut shelves is aligned with the shoulder cut of the back. A tuck move in the corner of the top of the neck.To do this, lines to cut the pattern to the end of the shoulder tuck, close it, due to what appears tuck in the neck. To lay out the pattern on the fabric should be economical. Ahead on the shelf is wedge below the waist line. The pattern of the shelves to put so that natachka wedge covered the waistband of the skirt. The blouse can be lengthened by any fabric. The length of time the clasp to the middle of the shelves to add 2.5 cm.

In the layout blouse fabric length 150 - 170 cm, you can bend the material so that there is only sleeve length. From the balance of fabric will be the collar (Fig. 219, C), cuffs, straps, facing to shelves. Laying out patterns, pinning them to the material with pins. When cutting to length of back from waist to add 7 + 5 cm On the bottom will be shared thread. 

Sleeve length shelves 45 cm, backrest - 47, a difference of 2 cm is given for lengthening the sleeves at the elbow. This layout pattern bodice to carve out one detail. Small parts (collar, cuff, strap front) rasmalai immediately on the fabric and cut out. 

 Cuff (Fig. 219, d). Cuff length 28 - 30 cm, width 8 - 10 cm strap Width for binder shelf 5 cm and length equal to the length of the blouse in the middle of the shelves. When cutting the blouse of nylon or thin cloth in the sleeves under the gum to give allowance 3 see 

the Blouse without the shoulder seam can be cut out in the longitudinal direction of the filament. The backrest will work with a seam in the middle and in the mantle wedge will not. If the blouse of the plaid, the seam of the back to fit the cage transferable seam. Waist, back and shelves to outline the crease with a depth of 3 cm 

Side seam of the back and shelves to extend at the hip line 3 cm

Tailoring blouse 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves and waist line cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Tack and pritchet wedges, the seams resuturing. 

4. Baste and stitch the sleeve seam and the side seam at the same time, and then sew nadziejko, bringing the line in the end of podraza. 

5. The soft pin tuck in the neckline cross-stitching.

6. The middle of the shelves, cut on the bias thread to handle the equity strip, tack it, folding the front side with the underside, slightly propositiva the middle of the front. To the right and left shelf to pricecat the bar, from the notch in the neck, then bend it on the front side so that it went behind the middle of the front half of the strap width, the second cut it to sew on the machine. 

7. The bottom collar sew the middle seam to resaturate. Baste upper collar with the lower, sew, cut off excess fabric in the corners to resaturate the seam, turn the front side.

8. To votate and vacate lower collar into the neck (ultimate at neckline), Posiva the neck in oblique slices. Slice the top of the collar to sew the seam primaqiune manual stitches.

9. The distribution of folds under the cuff in Fig. 219. The first fold 8 cm from the front seam, depth of 5 cm, the distance between the folds of 2.5 cm to Prepare the cuff, folded it inside out, sew the cuff angles to nadsech, turn on the front side, to make the notch for zipper at the elbow, bend the cut towards the inside, pritchet 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. To lay soft folds at the bottom of the sleeve. Attach the bottom cuff facing to the wrong side of the sleeve (Fig. 219, g), tack and pritchet seam width 0.7 cm, bend the cuff, the seam grinding of a bend in the cuff side.Section of the upper cuff to bend, to put on the sleeve, covering the seam primaqiune, and pritchet 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. Sweep loop. If the sleeve under the elastic, then hem it is desirable to sew a facing of a width of 3 cm.

10. To hem the bottom, to iron, to sew on buttons and under the buttons of a button or sweep of the loop in shared direction. 


Drawing style lines on the skirt pattern (Fig. 220) 

the Style developed at the basic pattern drawing of a skirt. 

The pattern from the end of tackle Darts apply cut lines to the bottom of the pattern to the soft folds at the waist. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt (Fig. 221) 

For applying lines the pattern cut from waist line to bottom, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Mid-pattern front and rear panels to put the fold of the fabric and take parts of patterns with the distance between them by 5 cm Zone to find a common thread. Its length is equal to waist circumference plus 3 cm, i.e. 79 cm, width of 6 - 7 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 221. 

Sewing the skirt 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare on the main lines of the pattern and soft folds. 

3. To consolidate the soft folds.

4. Baste and sew the side seams, not the bottom destrucive 12 - 14 cm, to make a cross line on the width of the folds on the bottom step. In the left side to handle the clasp. To handle the belt. Tack and pristroit cushioning fabric to the underside of the belt (Fig. 221). Tack the waistband to the skirt, folded inside out so that the cushioning fabric was at the top of the belt. To pritchet belt, zastrochit the ends of the belt by removing the front side. Remove it, straighten the ends, the second cut of the hem to the seam of primaqiune manual stitches. Sew the hook to the belt.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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