Blouse of silk dyed fabric with the transition shoulder in the form of a yoke. From the yoke on the shelf jotted pintucks. Ahead of the closure strap. Visibility strap creates a tuck, jotted from the neck to the bottom. Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter. Collar - sew front, ending in the Cape. 


Elegant full skirt "the sun" from smooth wool or wool blend fabric at the waist. Ahead is a deep inverted pleat which both sides can be trimmed by corded stitching a few rows or small folds.


A skirt of this cut can be made from crepe-satin on matte side. Under an inverted pleat insert stripe on the brilliant side. On the outer crease of the folds you can give finishing the stitching thread to match the fabric. 


This skirt combined with a blouse of nylon, chiffon, Georgette, crepe de Chine or lace will be a beautiful costume for a young slim female. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 205) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 


 The rear panel (Fig. 205, a). On the back of the cloth pattern of the dresses for rascles skirts at the waist to apply a line cut from the end of the pulley-block Darts in the skirt to the bottom, and then waist line from tuck up to the side of the slice is split in half and the dividing point to hold the second line down, parallel to the first. 


 The front panel (Fig. 205, b). For the Basque from the top of the neck and the shoulder end of the cut to delay down 4 - 5 cm and draw a line parallel to the shoulder cut. To connect the ends of the shoulder tackle and Darts. To the entry zipper, from the bottom of the neck and the waist line to the right to lay 2.5 cm, plotting points to connect.

For rascles front cloth skirts from the end of the pulley-block Darts to draw a line to the bottom, and then waist line from tuck up to the side of the slice to divide into three parts and from the points of division draw lines parallel to the first. 


 Collar (Fig. 205, in). The length of the collar equal to the semicircle of the neck (18 cm) plus 5 cm on the length: 18 + 5 = 23 cm Width collar in expanded form to 10 cm valve Length 2.5 cm

 Cuff (Fig. 205, g). Its length is equal to the circumference of the hand (20 cm) plus 5 cm length: 20 + 5 = 25 cm 

valve Length 2.5 cm 

pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the blouse (Fig. 206) 

 Back (Fig. 206, a). From waist line to extend back to 15 - 18 cm, then its side cut to extend 3 cm On the shelf on spaced lines to cut the yoke, tuck close to connect it to the back, combining the height of the sprout with the top of the neck. The excess pattern in the armhole to remove. To carve out on the fabric one detail. 

 Shelf (Fig. 206, b). From the waist line in the middle of the front and side cut to lengthen 15 - 18, see lines caused from traveling tuck the end of the shoulder to make the cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck to close, thereby will open the enlarged pulley-block dart.

Before reveal shelves on the fabric to bystrocice pintucks. For this pattern to put on fabric, obelit chalk to the middle of the shelves to give allowance for the tucks twice the width of the folds. For example, the width of the folds in the finished form about 0.1 cm, in the unfolded is 0,2 cm pintucks 11: 11 X 2 = 2.5 cm Hence, all the tucks need to add 2.5 cm, according to the style. The first pockets to scribble, stepping back from the edge of the cut fabric to the width of the visibility strap 5 cm plus 1 cm for seam: 5 + 1 = 6 see

Scribbling pintucks on the right shelf from the bottom up, and on the left side from top to bottom. To the armhole length of stitching of the pockets is reduced, forming the appearance of a yoke. To handle the setting of the fastener to carve out a piping of length equal to the middle shelves, with a width of 6 - 7 cm wide fabric piping can be cut out together with shelves. 

 Collar. The middle of the pattern is put to the bend of the fabric. The seam to the slices to give 1 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 206. 

Tailoring blouse 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. Topstitch the pockets in the shelves and at the bottom front of the sleeve. 

4. Handle loop on the collar, cuffs and right shelf. 

5. Baste and sew the seam of the yoke with inner shelf or sew-in sock seam. 

6. To handle the clasp. Fold the facing and shelves face inward, tack and pritchet, stitch resuturing, to bend the facing on the underside, releasing the roll from the shelves, priotity. The inner section of piping to bend and manually sew the first pintuck on the right shelf and the left - to pritchet on the machine.

7. To prepare the collar, then wmeat and vacate in the neck, aligning the middle of it, with the middle of the back. The second cut stand-up collar to tuck inside and sew manually the hidden stitches for the seam primaqiune. 

8. Sew the sleeve seam, work the clasp. 

9. To prepare the cuff, tack and pritchet her sleeve. 

10. To votate and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. 

11. Hem bottom of blouse podrobnym seam. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt (Fig. 207) 

 Back panel of the skirt (Fig. 207, a). Lines for applying a pattern to cut from the bottom to the end of the pulley-block Darts and waist line, not dorezaya 0.5 cm of the pattern on the bottom to push with the same distance between them 2.7 cm (optional). If the width of the fabric is not suitable, you can make the middle rear cloth seam, i.e. the middle of the pattern to put at the edges. 

 The front panel of the skirt(Fig. 207, b). For applying the pattern lines to cut and push part of its rear panel is similar, but with a distance of 20 cm to Move the pattern from the edges to the half depth of the folds, i.e. 8 cm. Fold the seam allowance towards the wrong side, draw a notch at the waist, and then cut out on the fabric. 

 The insertion (Fig. 207,) under an inverted pleat to otkroite a length equal to the length of the front panels of the skirt (73 cm) in width twice the depth of the folds, i.e. 16 see the joint must pass through the inner crease of the fold.

Belt to find a common thread of length equal to the circumference of the waist plus seam allowance for the length of the clasp 3 cm, and a width of twice the width of the belt in finished form, i.e., 8 - 12 cm

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 207.
 

Sewing the skirt 

1. To lay the finishing line on the skirt. The first line should go from the outer fold of the pleat by 0.5 - 1 cm 

2. To pritchet under the fold of the box, equalizing the slices. 

3. Pull the skirt on oblique sections of iron or load hanging. 

4. Baste and sew the side seams of the skirt, leaving not a jotted 13 - 14 cm at the clasp. 

5. Handle the zipper in left side seam.

6. The belt is folded inside out, sew the ends of the seam with the width of 0.5 cm the Upper part of the belt can be treated with Cape. To turn on the front side, straightening the seam, to iron, to sew the hooks. To attach the belt face to the side skirt (the ends of the belt should match the length of the clasp). To pritchet, cut the bottom of the belt to bend and sew the seam primaqiune manual stitches. 

7. Hem the bottom of the skirt.