Style 100 (see color figure XIII) 

Free coat of lightweight woolen cloth, gabardine and other inexpensive fabric that simulates wool (sizes 46 - 54). Lined to match the scarf and hat. 

Coat with a relief line from the armhole to the side of the cut and a Welt pocket with tselnokrajnie leaflets, which vstrechena finishing line. 

The backrest can be inverted pleat or seam. Vtachnoy sleeve, long, narrowed down. Collar - telekrona stand, turning into the curly side. 

Coat this style is recommended for women of high growth. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 348)

Style developed on the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. For a free fit add 6 cm (TDG 48 + 6 = 54 cm). 

 3аднее panel (Fig. 348, a). To postpone the measure length coat 110 see For rocklee to the side cut and bottom line mid-back delay by 10 - 12 cm. plotting points to connect with the armhole and depth of Rostock, and then to place the bottom. To build a stand the height of the sprout up to be postponed 4 to 6 cm, the line of the middle of the back to continue to the level height of the rack. Plotting points to connect in the middle of the rack to remove 0.5 cm to deepen the Armhole by 1 cm 

 Front panel (Fig. 348, b). To build tselnokrajnie continue to stand shoulder slice to the right by 2 cm, then up to be postponed 4 to 6, see Point 4 to 6 to connect with the shoulder cut for a smooth line. From the depths of the neck to the right to delay 3 to 4 cm Mid front continue up randomly (shown in phantom), the resulting angle is split in half and draw a line of length 4 see Point 4, 4 - 6 to join. From point 3 to 4 to hold down a line parallel to the center of the front panel.For the design of the pocket from the end of the shoulder tuck to draw a line parallel to the center of the front panels below the waist line at 6 cm to the Left from point 6 to postpone 2 cm down to 5 cm. Point 2 and 5 to connect, then from point 2 at a right angle to draw a line equal to the length of the pocket, i.e., 14 cm, and at right angles to a line drawn to postpone the width of the leaves 4 cm. From point 4 draw a line to the intersection with the side cut.

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 349) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 3аднее panel (Fig. 349, a). When cutting the pattern to put so that the direction of grain lines on the pattern and fabric match. To carve out two parts. To otkroite the facing of the main fabric to handle the rack. 

 The front panel (Fig. 349,b). When cutting the pattern to put so that the middle of the front was the common thread. To carve out two parts. 

 The flank (Fig. 349,). To find the two parts together with a burlap pocket (podkraj burlap shown in phantom). To put the pattern so the middle of it was the common thread. 

To otkroite obtachku for the treatment of the leaves with burlap pocket. To find the side strip on the bias thread (podkraj shown by hachures), then podbot together with a rack and notched sides, whose width at the shoulder cut to the first line of the tuck and the bottom 8 cm from the line of call. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 349.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front cloth cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Sew a tuck in the side strip, the seam resuturing. Moisten the side strip and to iron. 

4. Sweep the front of the coat with side tuck detail and raised lines on the inner bridging seam. 

5. Before smachivanie to pull iron the side seams of the back and shelves. 

6. Baste and sew the back middle, seam to press. 

7. Temporarily tack shelf coat to the side strip. 

8. Baste shoulder and side seams.

9. On the first fitting to draw attention to the shoulder tuck, which passes into a carved relief line and the line of the pocket. If the coat is narrow in the chest, then the stock in the relief line of the breast can be released, and if widely to take. When discovery the fitting creases in the rack on the Rostock to unpick the shoulder seam, to increase the fit at the shoulder cut of the back and releasing stock (turned out to be the high shoulders). 

10. On the first fitting to determine the length of the coat. 

11. After trying to move all of the patches on the right shelves on the left and begin to sew. 

12. For the hardness to the valve pocket to tack the interlining fabric.

13. Tack podkraj piping to the valve, folded them face inward, pritchet, processing simultaneously the angles of the leaves. To turn, releasing the roll from the side of the valve 0.2 - 0.3 cm, and priotity using a moistened cloth. To lay the finishing line on the pocket flap. 

14. To zastrochit carved relief line from the shoulder cut to the entrance to the pocket inner seam, and then from the end of the pocket up to the side of the slice. To iron shelf, moistening the fabric.

15. Pin tuck shoulder in relief lines from the inside to tuck the side strip. From the front side to tack a shelf to the side laying three lines (side gasket is at the bottom): 

first, the tuck and the midline floors; 

the second - from the neck to the shoulder, the armhole and at the edge of the side strip to the bottom; 

third from the armhole at the shoulder to the neck on the fold of his coat lapel and down (Fig. 349, d). 

16. On his coat lapel to lay hidden quilting stitches slant from the side strip to the front side they are not visible (Fig. 348, b).

17. Oblachnyy to make a loop with the eye. From the edge of the side loop should be at a distance of 3/4 the diameter of the buttons, and the size of the loop is equal to the diameter of the buttons plus 0.2 cm Tack the facing on the coat inside out, mark with a pencil from the side of the strip loop. Line piping start from the left, towards the edge of the floors. In the intended eye to make the curve and continue stitching to the end of the loop (the distance between lines of 0.8 - 1 cm). Cut the facing between stitches, starting from the middle.At the end of the loop to make the undercuts for the formation of mysyk (in the rounded end of the loop undercuts do not reach the line by 0.1 - 0.3 cm), after which the facing to turn inside out, straightening the edge, to sweep away Kant 0.4 - 0.5 cm, edge loop to sweep butt cross stitches. Mysik from the inside to straighten and fasten machine stitching to the facing. Obtachku on the back of it to sew a strip, priotity until it is tight.

18. Pave edge on the Board, starting at the top from the neck on the right shelf and from the bottom up to the left shelf. When primitivnyi edges to keep it tight, slightly propositiva Board. Edge retains the shape of the bead and protects the edge of the shelves from stretching. 

19. Baste and sew the side seams of the back side, remove the basting, moistening, stitch resuturing. 

20. Baste shoulder seams and the seams stand, Posiva shoulder cut of the back, cotuit. Sew the seam, remove the basting, seams to resaturate. Sew podkraj of podborta otkroem with the Mandarin collar.

21. Tack podbot stand to the shelf coat, folded them face inward. During primatte podbot put to the cuffs and stand got fit to the shelf. 

22. To oblachat Board and rack (machine stitch should traverse edge to edge and seam tacking). Remove the sides and the front, seam stitching to resaturate to the sections of the rack, straighten, sweep slanted stitches, priotity until it is tight. Hem the bottom of the coat. 

23. Attach podborta and stand collar to the side strip.

24. Sew a seam the sleeves, resuturing, hem bottom of the sleeves. Sew the seam of the sleeve lining, to insert in the sleeve, sew down the lining. 

25. To votati sleeve in the armhole to do a fitting. On the fitting to establish the exact distribution of the landing sleeve. Before setting sucurity fit in the sleeve, then vacate it. 

26. Sew the lining side seams, hem the bottom of it, tack coat in the middle of the back and sides. If you wish to put the shoulder pads. To hem the lining at the shoulder cut manual concealed stitches. 

27. To iron and sew on buttons.