Gown of plain fabric or a pattern (sizes 46 - 62), cut at waist, with button fastening. 


The shelf with the undercut below the breast line and Assembly. 


Back straight. 


Flared skirt with seam in the middle of the back of the cloth. 


Long sleeve with cuff. 


Collar - telekrona of the season. 


Pocket invoice. 


Gown this style for larger women of small stature is better to do without podraza on the shelf. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 301) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 


 The rear panel (Fig. 301, a). Cut the bodice from the skirt at the waist line. To obtain a flared skirt to apply a line cut from the end of the pulley-block darting to the bottom. For the second line cut waist line from tuck up to the side of the slice is split in half and the dividing point down to draw a line that is parallel to the first. 


 The front panel (Fig. 301, b). From the depth of the neck down to delay 4 see Point 4 to connect with the top of the neck and continue the line to the width of the cut of the Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. 8 see point 8 at a right angle to a line drawn right to defer the width of the collar, i.e. 9 cm and from point 9 to the left - 1 cm Depth of neck split in half, and then from the dividing point to the right to defer 9 cm and from point 4 to the right 6 inches of the depth of the neck down to postpone 15 cm and from the point 15 to the right 7 - 8 cm.


By the middle of the front cloth to give allowance for prosanos the bottom 10 to 12 cm, waist 8 - 9 see Point 1, 9, 7 - 8, 8 - 9, 10 - 12 to connect, as shown in Fig. 301 b. 


The ends of the shoulder tackle and Darts to join. Lateral cut to the depth of the armholes to the waist line to split in half and the point of division to connect with the end of the pulley-block Darts. A line cut of the bodice from the skirt is at the waist. 


 Pocket (Fig. 301, b). From the waist on the first line tuck down delay 7 cm from the point 7 to the left - the width of the pocket 16 cm and from point 7 down 1 see Point 1 connected to point 16 (the line of entry into the pocket). From points 1 and 16 to postpone the length of the pocket (17 cm). Draw the pocket as shown in Fig. 301, V. the corners of the pocket round. 


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 302) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The backrest (see Fig. 301, a). The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric and cut out on the pattern. 

 The rear panel of the skirt (Fig. 302, a). For applying lines from the bottom to the end tucks and the waist line to make the cuts. Tuck close, and then part of the pattern on the bottom to push 15 - 17 cm (optional). To carve out two parts (two wedges). 

 The shelf (Fig. 302, b). In the lines to make a cut from the side of the cut by the end of the shoulder tuck, not dorezaya 0.5 cm. Shoulder pulley-block and tuck to close, whereby side cut get allowance to build. To increase the Assembly to the side cut add 2 - 3 cm to Find the two parts. 

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 302, b). The pattern cut in the same way as for the back panel, and push part of it, as shown in the figure, depending on the width of the fabric. For more rasciesa side cut can add 7 - 8cm (optional). To carve out two parts. 

 Top collar to otkroite at the bottom along with podborta. If the fabric is not enough, you can datacat at two locations 2 cm below the first loop (podkraj of the collar shown by hachures in Fig. 302, b). 

 Pocket to find on the pattern. It can be lined in a main or lining fabric that carve out the shape of the pocket. For the processing upper edge to otkroite obtachku a width of 3 to 4 cm sections of the pocket to give a seam allowance of 0,7 - 1 cm 

Cuff to otkroite in the form of a bottom sleeve width 8 - 10 cm Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 302.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves, back and front panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. To gather an Assembly on the top line podraza on the shelf. Build distribute more to the middle of the shelves. 

4. Baste and sew the undercut inner seam, folding shelf on the undercut face inward. 

5. Baste and sew tackle Darts at the back. 

6. To handle one or two obrazkami loop on the right shelf.

7. Baste and sew lower collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. The middle of the collar pin to the middle of Rostock. Baste shoulder seams, collar votiva at the same time in Rostock. In the corner of the shoulder sections and the collar to make the notch. Then sew starting from the shoulder of the left shelves to the collar, nadechka the width of the seam to take 0,2 - 0,3 cm Shoulder seams to press in the back side, and the seam of the collar toward the collar. 

8. Baste and sew the side seams of the back and shelves. 

9. Baste and stitch the sleeve seam. 

10. Handle cuff and pritchet their sleeves. 

11. To votate and vacate sleeves in armhole.

12. Baste and sew the back and side seams of the skirt. 

13. Tack and pricecat the bodice to the skirt.

14. If there is natachka, pricecat it to podborta. Seam stitching should pass below the first loop at 2 cm Seams to resaturate. Sew upper collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. Baste upper collar with lower one. Sew collar in unfastened parts, starting from the bottom of the shelf and the lower collar. Resuturing the seam, turn the collar on the front side, straightening the seam, releasing the chute from the upper collar to the first loop, then from the shelves by 0.1 - 0.2, see Lower section of the upper collar bend on the wrong side at 0.5 cm and hem by hand, covering the seam of the collar primaqiune to sprout. From Rostock cut bend on the wrong side at 0.5 cm, hem, on seam width from the bend of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, then attach in several places. To lay the finishing line on the front side of the upper collar.

15. Hem bottom of gown. 

16. To handle the pocket. Connect the pocket with lining, folding inside out, obtusate from the lining seam with the width of 0.5 cm, leaving nezastroennoe 3 - 4 cm in length for eversion. The excess fabric in the corners to cut. Pocket to turn on the front side, sweep, priotity, place it on the right panel of the skirt and Topstitch finishing stitching or sew hidden stitches.