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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Dress cutting above the waist line with tselnokrajnie strap


Gown of striped wool blend or faille (sizes 46 - 56). Below the chest a few soft folds. From trims at skirt, inverted pleat. The strap is attached to the dress buttons. The back straight, cutting above the waist line. Neckline "the boat". Sleeve short one-piece.

A dress of this style can be recommended on all pieces. For women with a small bust undercut shelves to do the above, ie on the chest, and with a strong bust of the opposite - below the chest line for 5 - 7 see 

Drawing of style lines on the pattern (Fig. 336)

Style developed on the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve. 

 The backrest (Fig. 336, a). Lateral cut to the depth of the armhole to the waist to split into five parts. From the upper point of division draw a line parallel to the waist line to the middle of the back. For the design of the neckline "the boat" from the depths of Rostock up to postpone 1 cm and the height of the sprout at the shoulder to the right, slice - 5 - 6 see Point 1, 5 - 6 to join. 

 Shelf (Fig. 336, b). Lateral cut to the depth of the armholes to the waist line divide into five parts. From the top of the division to hold the line until the middle of the front. To move the shoulder Darts to connect the end line of the yoke. To increase the creases, apply the cut lines as shown in Fig. 336, b. To design trims the skirt length from waist line to bottom divided into four parts. From the bottom division up to delay 3 cm and from point 3 to the left - 2,5 cm to Make the toe strap, as shown in Fig. 336, b. From point 3 to the right to defer 5 - 6 cm to half the depth of the folds.From the point of 2.5 up to draw a line parallel to the middle front to the cutting line of the shelves, what will be the placket.

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 337)

caused to the lines On the pattern to cut. 

 The backrest (Fig. 337, a). The middle patterns to put to bend fabric grain lines and cut out on the pattern without any changes. V Rostock for processing to give an allowance of 3 to 4 cm 

 Rear panel skirts to find on the pattern. The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread. To add to the seams on the top 2 cm slice, side slice - 2 - 3 cm, hem - 4 - 6 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 337, b) carve out together with strap. To obtain soft folds to make a cut from the lower edge of the shelf until the end of the shoulder tuck. Tuck closed, whereby opening of the new tuck at the cut lines. In the lines to make undercut by the end of the shoulder cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm, and take the pattern to the left by 3 cm When cutting the fabric folded in half with a scarf. To put the pattern so that the direction of grain lines on the pattern coincided with a partial thread on the fabric. For economical cutting of the strap can be datacat below the cutting line of shelves on a 4 - 5 cm.For processing trims otkroite obtachku on the form of the strap by a transverse filament. For registration of the neck to defer from the top of her shoulder to the left cut 5 cm From the depth of the neck of the point 5, 5 to connect. For treatment of the neck to give an allowance of 3 to 4 cm or otkroite obtachku on equity or cross thread.

 The front panel of the dress (Fig. 337,) to carve out the pattern, keeping the center of the front panel. From the middle of the front to add on the seam of 1 - 1,5 cm 

 Insert for the folds (Fig. 337, g). To find box of length equal to the length of the front of the cloth from the Cape to the bottom, i.e. 27 - 28 cm in width twice half the depth of the folds, i.e. 12 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 337. 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of all of the parts of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the pulley-block darting at front and back panels of the skirt.

4. The lower section of the back to stitch double line rare, departing from the line of snares by 0.5 cm (to pull the bottom thread). To distribute the Assembly evenly on the back. To lay soft folds on the shelf, stacking one pleat with a depth of 2 cm on either side of the bar. Handle bar, folded it with the face facing inward (to identify on the strap, sew the facing), cut the slices in the corners of the shelves. Have straps to make the notch deep into the folds, turn the bar on the front side, sweep, releasing the chute from the upper limit to iron.

5. Baste and sew the middle seam on the front panel of the skirt to the counter folds, resuturing, at the same time to press towards the inside allowances, data on the crease. To pritchet insert for inverted pleats, seams to press. 

6. Baste and sew the side sections of the back, shelves and side sections of the front and rear panels of the skirt, aligning the reference point. To process slices from the inside, press the seam toward middle front. 

7. The upper section of the skirt to bend towards the inside in the width of the seam allowance given in the cutting, tack and priotity.

8. Apply the skirt to the bodice, aligning the snare (in this case the bar by bending at the bodice), to tack, to pricecat from the inside out, simultaneously primativa the facing strips. 

9. Treating neck podkralas a facing or seam allowance of the cutting. If the neck is treated with allowance, you need to underside of the seam allowance close to the bend to pritchet edge width 0.7 cm, the length equal to the width of the neck to prevent stretching of the neck. 

10. Processing podkralas the facing armhole, hem the bottom of the dress, sew on buttons.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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