Feature 54 (see color figure III) 

Dress from solid-color fabric: taffeta, moire or heavy silk (sizes 46 - 50). 

Flirty cut together. with sleeves. Bodice yoke laid soft folds. The back is cut at the waist line. Skirt on the back yoke, a lush, densely gathered in the Assembly. A large neck. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 189) 

the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve. 

 3аднее flag (Fig. 189, a). Rostock at the shoulder slice to expand to 4 cm, the depth of sprout to increase by 2 - 3 cm, plotting points connect smooth lines. Sleeve to shorten by 4 cm (the length of the sleeves to rest). From the waist down delay 7 - 8 cm - the length of the yoke. 

To receive the flared gussets line of tackle Darts to continue to the bottom of the skirt. On the bottom side cut of the skirt to expand to 9 see For rascles side wedge skirts top and bottom lines split in three pieces and plotting points to connect. 

 Shelf (Fig. 189, b). Shoulder tuck to move on the waist line, and then modified the pattern to put shelves shaped line. The width of the neck at the shoulder slice to increase by 4 cm, depth 8 cm plotting points connect with a straight line. The length of the shelves from the depths of the neck to the waist line to divide in half, and from the points of division draw a line (the line yoke), the parallel lines of the neck, with a length of 22 - 25 cm 

depth of the arm openings on the side cut down to defer 5 see Point 5, 22 - 25 connect a smooth line. This will be the line of the cut of the yoke.

To equalize the shoulder seams of the back and shelves. To obtain the drape below the yoke to cause the cutting lines on the pattern as shown in Fig. 189, b. 

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 189,). To receive the flared wedges to continue the line of tackle Darts to the bottom. On the side cut from the waist line to delay down 7 - 8 cm (the length of the yoke), and the line of the tuck 10 and 11, see plotting points to connect a smooth line.

For rascles side of the wedge on the bottom side cut of the skirt to expand by 10 cm, the top and bottom lines split into three parts, the obtained point linking, as shown in Fig. 189, V. To the middle of the front cloth on the bottom to add 8 - 12cm to rasciesa. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 190) 

 Back (Fig. 190, a) to the waist line to cut out on the pattern. The shape of the germ,and the bottom of the sleeves to otkroite piping width 4 5 cm 

 Flirty skirt (Fig. 190, b). Traveling tuck close to the middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread. 

 The average wedge of the skirt (Fig. 190). When cutting the middle of the pattern (part 3) to move away from the fold of the fabric to form an Assembly of the top 4 to 8 cm at the bottom to rasciesa 12 - 20 cm 

 Side wedge rear cloth skirts (Fig. 190, d). For applying the pattern lines to cut and push part of it for the formation of assemblies on top of the 4 to 8 cm at the bottom to rasciesa 12 - 20 see 

 Flirty shelves (Fig. 190, d). When cutting the middle of the yoke to put the fold of the fabric, or cut out with seam. 

For treatment of the neck to carve out obtachku on the transverse filament width 4 5 cm, and for processing the bottom of the sleeves to otkroite obtachku on the shape of the sleeve. The yoke can be cut out double, then it can handle the neck and bottom sleeves, with the direction of the grain lines of the two parts of the yoke should be the same. 

 The front panel (Fig. 190, e). On the shelf (part 6) traveling tuck to cut the pattern, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Half pulley-block Darts to close, leaving her in depth of 2 cm To increase the number of assemblies from the yoke towards the side of the cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm, pattern cut and parts of it split into 2 - 3 cm 

Shelf cut along with the front wedge skirt (item 9). In the middle of the front cloth will seam stitching. 

 The yoke of the skirt (Fig. 190, f) be cut out of the pattern. 

 Side wedge front cloth skirts (Fig. 190, z). For applying lines of the pattern and cut pattern pieces apart to form the top Assembly for 4 - 10 cm down to rasciesa 12 - 22 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 190.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front yoke and rear cloth skirts cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. On the back sweep, and sew tucks and traveling to connect back with Flirty skirts (part 2). 

4. To lay soft folds on the shelf. 

5. To connect Basque bodice and skirt with shelves. 

6. Sweep the shoulder, side seams and front seams of the plastron. 

7. Baste and sew the wedges of the rear panel and side seams of the front cloth skirts. 

8. Gather the top skirt to the Assembly. 

9. To baste the bodice to the skirt harvested.

10. Baste the tuck on the shelves, at the same time connecting the plastron with the side gores of the skirt. To do a fitting. On the fitting lay in soft folds on the bodice, specify the length of the yoke, the neckline, the fit of the bodice at the waist line and the hip line, etc. After trying all the fixes to move the right side of the dress on the left. Then sew the Darts and seams in the same sequence in which they were smeyalis. Shoulder seam and seam of the bodice in the middle front to the waist line does not grind down.

11. To handle the sprout and armhole backless pokrainini obrazkami, bend obtachki inside out, releasing the roll from otacek, prometti. 

12. Fold the top yoke and the bottom face inward, equating sections, and sew the yoke left and right shelves at the armhole and neckline. Seams to resaturate, remove the yoke, releasing the chute toward the bottom of the yoke. Lower section of the upper yoke tack and pritchet to the right and left shelves.

13. On the front side of the lower yoke to attach the underside of the backrest, equating the shoulder seams, then fold the top yoke and the back face side inside, and sew. When grinding the back will be placed between the upper and lower belt. 

14. Fold the facing to the armhole of the backrest and the lower yoke up, baste, and sew the ends of them, simultaneously grinding off the side seam, resaturate it, then bend the facing and yoke facing the wrong side and hem with hidden stitches.

15. At the same time sew the front seam of the plastron, the upper and lower yoke by bending it up, aligning the seams of the joints of the belt. Then seam stitching to resaturate. Lower the yoke to bend inside out. Eaves the lower edge of the yoke to bend to the inside and hem with hidden stitches. 

To hem the bottom, neaten the seams and ironed dress.