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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Dress of the original cut without shoulder and side seams

Dress in printed silk fabric (sizes 48 - 52). 


Bodice without shoulder and side seams. 


On the shelf from the armhole shaped undercut, which includes three soft folds. 


Back with a plunging neckline Rostock and drape from the waist line. 


Round neckline. 


Sleeve one-piece, short.


The skirt flared at the hem, without side seams. 


In the middle of the front and rear panels laid unilateral folds. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 164) 


the Style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi sleeve and the undercut in the armhole. 


 3аднее panel (Fig. 164, a). The width of the sprout at the shoulder slice to increase by 2 - 3 cm For the formation of call backs (right side of the back goes to the left) at the waist line, measure the length from mid-back to the first line of tackle and Darts to the left from the middle of the back to postpone the same cut at the waist, i.e. 7.5 cm, then connect the point of 7.5 with a point 2 - 3 at the shoulder cut. The resulting line is split in half and the points of division at right angles to this line up.put 2 - 3 cm, plotting points connect smooth lines.For the formation of soft folds from the waist line cut from start of call backs to the first line of tackle Darts split into three parts, and the width of the shoulder in half and apply the cut pattern, as shown in Fig. 164.


Sleeve length at the shoulder slice from the reference point 10 to 12 cm, 2 cm armhole 


For receiving the flared gussets on the skirt line of tackle Darts continue to the bottom. 


 The front panel (Fig. 164, b). The width of the neck at the shoulder slice to increase by 2 - 3 cm, and its depth 3 to 5 cm (optional). Sleeve length shelves should be equal to the length of the back, i.e. 10 - 12 see End of podreza the armhole (from checkpoint) to connect a smooth line with the second line of tackle Darts. In the lines to put 2 - 3 checkpoint. To move the shoulder Darts to connect the end with the undercut at the shoulder. Side cut shelves and back to put a control point from the waist line up to 5 - 7 cm On the skirt line of tackle Darts continue to the bottom.


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 165) 

caused to the lines On the pattern to cut. 

 Shelf and backrest (Fig. 165, a). To cut out the bodice without shoulder and side seams, from the shelves to cut the flank (item 5) caused to the lines of the pattern and connect it to the line side of the slice of the backrest (item 1), combining control points with the line of the side sections of parts 1 and 5 (Fig. 164, as shown by the dotted line). The lower part of the pattern sleeve back, which is on the side shelves (part 5), cut from the back and attach to the undercut openings of the shelves, combining the control points so that the bottom of the sleeve cut details combined with the bottom of the sleeve shelves (part 4).Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck on a lateral slice of the shelves. For the formation of soft pleats on the back lines for applying a pattern to cut from the waist to the shoulder cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm of the pattern (part 1) to be expanded to 5 - 6 cm.

A modified pattern of the back and shelves to connect the line of the shoulder cut, combining the control point, and to carve out, placing the middle shelves in an equity or cross thread. 

 Skirt (Fig. 165, b). To make a skirt without side seams, have the side sections of the front and rear panels to connect at the waist line (parts 3 and 6), due to what happens rascles bottom line. The sections 3 and 6 parts to add on half of the depth of the folds, i.e., 3.5 cm (optional). The width of the middle wedge back the cloth at the waist and hem split into three parts and cut (Fig. 165,). The middle patterns of the wedge to move away from the fold of tissue at 6 cm for the counter-folds, and the rest of the pattern to push on one-way pleats and 6 cm (Fig. 165, d).The depth of wrinkles can be reduced, and their number to increase or replace an Assembly or a flared wedge.

Medium wedge front cloth skirts (item 7) to find a similarly average wedge rear cloth skirts. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 165.
 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the shelves, the back, the front and rear panels of the skirt. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. On the shelf lay soft pleats at the gusset line. 

4. Sweep the flank (item 5) with shelf (item 4) by aligning the control points and snaring. 

 Note. On the fabric to make the undercuts under the armhole in the joints of the barrel (5 piece) with backrest (1 piece) before the checkpoint, and the shelf along the shaped line, i.e., at the junction of the lower part of the pattern sleeve with a shelf in the region of the side tuck. In Fig. 165, shows undercuts.

5. Sew a seam the length of the sleeve and the undercut openings. 

6. Treating neck and clasp back podkralas a facing cut on the transverse or common thread. 

7. To lay soft folds at the back. 

8. To impose the right part of the back to the left, aligning the middle of the back. 

9. At medium wedges front and back panels of the skirt pleats to lay and splice with lateral wedges. 

10. To connect the bodice to the skirt inner bridging the seam, aligning the middle of the skirt with the middle of the bodice. 

11. Hem bottom of sleeves and skirts to iron dress.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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