Dress of plain or colored thick fabric (size 48 - 54), cutting below the waist line. Skirt stitched to bodice instead of tackle and shoulder Darts in the undercut laid two soft folds. Back with a clasp in the middle. Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter, neck - boat, on which is sewn a collar, pintucks vystroeny. 

A dress of this style is recommended on all pieces. For women of small stature with highly developed hips back panel of a dress it is better to do tselnokrajnimi, with a fold in the middle. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 241)

Style developed on the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 3аднее panel (Fig. 241, a). From the depth of the cut sprout defer up to 2.5 cm at the shoulder sresult height of the sprout to the left 5 see Point 2.5 and 5 connect. From the waist line on the side cut down to lay 10 - 12 cm and draw a line to the intersection with the middle of the back, extending the line 2.5 cm to the length of the clasp. Point to 2.5 and 2.5 to connect. Bottom line sause skirt 2 cm (optional) and point 2 are connected with the line of the hips. 

 The front panel (Fig. 241, b). The middle of the front to continue arbitrarily up to the depth of the neck. At the shoulder slice to postpone the cut, equal cut of the Rostock, and draw a line to the intersection with the middle of the front.From the point of intersection down to postpone 2 cm and a smooth line to draw the neckline by connecting the dots of 0.5, 2. 

Waist from center front to the left to defer 7 cm and from point 7 to build a pulley-block tuck, equal in length and depth the main traveling tuck, i.e. 4 cm In the middle of the front from the waist down postpone to 7 cm and from point 7 to the left - 13 see 

 the Line of entry into the pocket. On the side cut from waist to postpone 10 - 12 see Point 7, 13, 10 - 12 to connect a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 241 b. To move the shoulder Darts at the waist to apply a cut line connecting the ends of the pulley-block and the shoulder Darts. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

 Collar (Fig. 241, b). The length of the collar equal to the line of the neck, width - 8 - 9 see 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 242) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The backrest (Fig. 242, a). When cutting to the middle of the back to give allowance for processing fasteners 5 - 6 cm.

 The rear panel of the skirt (Fig. 242, b). The middle of the pattern is put to the bend of the fabric. For processing the upper edge of the skirt to cut out the facing of a width of 4 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 242,). On the put line from the end of the pulley-block Darts to do the undercut to the end of the shoulder, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck to close, thereby opening new and enlarged tuck (soft pleats) at the waist line. The middle pattern shelves to put the fold of the fabric. On the lower shelves cut when cutting to give allowance for the sacking of the pocket, as shown in Fig. 242, V. 

 the Front panel of the skirt (Fig. 242, d). The middle of the pattern, profit to bend the fabric for the processing upper edge to otkroite obtachku width 4 5 cm at the same time Podkrepa burlap pocket. 

 Collar to cut out on the pattern. For vrachevanie collar in the neck to carve out a facing of thin silk or cotton fabric on the bias thread. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 242.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves, front and rear panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Lay and fasten to the shelf soft pleats at the waist. Baste and sew the Darts on the back. 

4. Processing loop in the clasp back. Bend on the front side of the allowance for entry of fasteners from the neck to his zastrochit up to the notch, remove, priotity. Cut through the loops, sew a manual of concealed stitches.

5. Baste and stitch shoulder seams, press towards back.

6. Sew the side seams of the bodice. In a more dense fabric can be resaturate and slicers to sew on the machine. If the fabric is thin, the side seams first resuturing, and then press toward the front of the cloth.

7. Fold the collar inside out, equalizing sections, obtusate the ends of the collar seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 see remove the collar, straightening the seams, sweep, priotity. Tack the collar, aligning the middle of it, with the middle of the front. To attach the front side of the bottom of the collar to the front of the unit, equating sections. Fold the facing and upper collar face inward, equating sections. To vacate collar side seam piping 0,7 - 1 cm Cut edge of the piping to bend inward at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and hand-hemming stitches. 

8. Baste and sew the side seams in the skirt, resuturing.

9. Sew the facing back, with burlap pocket on the side cut, stitch resuturing. Tack and pritchet to the upper cut of skirt facing, folding her skirt inside out. Fold the facing inside out, straighten the seam, sweep, releasing the roll from the side products by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, suture priotity. Defer finishing stitching the pocket (16 - 18 cm) seam width 1.5 - 2 cm 

10. Prepared to put the skirt to the bodice, aligning the snare, tack, then sew burlap pockets from the inside of the dress and pritchet skirt to the bodice for the width of the finishing stitches on the pocket.

11. To vacate sleeves in armhole. Hem hem, iron and sew on buttons.