Dress of silk or cotton fabric (sizes 46 - 52), cut below the waist. 


Bodice with short sleeve tselnokrajnimi. 


The shelf on the chest detachable, assembled from notched neckline, podraza. 


The skirt is flared "full sun" with an enlarged recess at waist, gathered at the bodice and skirt. 


A separate strap attached buttons. 


Neckline - curly Bob. 


The dress is good to wear with a starched petticoat. 


A dress of this style is recommended for thin women with narrow hips. 



Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 200)


Style developed on the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve. 


 The shelf (Fig. 200). From the depth of the neck at the middle of the shelf down to postpone 7 cm and the left to hold the line to the intersection with the first line tuck. 

The top of the neck to connect with the point of intersection on the line of the tuck and point 7 smooth line. 

To move the shoulder Darts in the neck to apply a line cut from the notched neckline to the end of the shoulder tuck. 

From the depth of the neck down to defer 20 cm 

Armhole divided into three parts, and the connecting point 20 to the lower point of division.

The bodice to lengthen from the waistline by 5 cm 

to Make a lateral cut line of the bottom, as shown in Fig. 200. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 201) 

Back to carve out the pattern of the bodice with tselnokrajnimi short sleeve. For extra-long waist mid back and side cut of the waist line to lengthen 5 cm plus 2 cm for seams.

 Shelf (Fig. 201, a, b). On the put line from the neck to end of shoulder tuck to cut the pattern. Tuck closed, whereby opening of the new tuck in the curved neck for Assembly. To increase Assembly when cutting the pattern of the forepart (item 2) to move away from the fold of tissue at 8, see the Middle pattern of the lower part of the shelf (item 3) to put to the bend of the fabric.

Bar for the front cloth to carve out the equity or transverse filament width in finished form 3 to 4 cm, and the cutting - 7 - 8 cm strap Length equal to the removed measure on the front panel of the dress from the depths of the neck Yes bottom. Obtachku for the treatment of the armhole shelves to find after grinding the top with the bottom. 

 Skirt (Fig. 201, in). For cutting skirts flared "full sun" need a bushel full of waist circumference, in this example, 76 see Find the notch in the waist. To do this, measure the full circumference of the waist divided by 6 (a constant value for all sizes) - 76 : 6 = 13 cm To obtain ruched waist notch to increase 2 fold: 13 X 2 = 26 cm If the fabric is wide, folded it in half inside out and from tissue sections by the fold to delay the length of the skirt plus 2 - 3 cm for the binder, i.e. 73 cm, then radius of 26 cm to make a notch at the waist, and from recess to defer evenly the length of the skirt.For laying the thread of the recess at the waist to postpone 14 - 16 cm and draw a line parallel to the top.

When cutting the skirts of narrow fabric to fold the fabric length (in expanded form), combining edges and to carve out the same as in the first case. 

 Note. When the width of the fabric 100 cm skirt obtained without wedges and with a width 70 to 80 cm - with wedges. If the fabric is patterned, you need to pick it up when podkre wedge. This skirt can be cut out of straight panels of fabric and also gather at the waist and hips. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 201.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Pave diamond double rare stitching on the neckline and on the lower section of the upper part of the shelves (part 2). To gather the Assembly, pulling the lower thread. 

4. To connect internal bridging stitch the upper part of the shelf (item 2) from the bottom (item 3), folding inside out. Seam primaqiune bend towards the bottom. 

5. Baste and sew tackle Darts on the front and the back, to press Darts in the back to the middle of the back, on the shelf to the middle shelf.

6. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams shelves and back (in the left side to not leave zastrochennye 10 - 12 cm for lock "lightning"). 

7. Baste and sew the side seams of the skirt and resuturing. At lines of build location on the hip line skirt to bend the front side inside the bend and thread embroidery floss (in two lines to match the product) to lay a blanket stitch slanting stitch (Fig. 201, g). Thread to lay freely, then pull it, gathering Assembly, and fasten it to Lay a double line rare car traveling at the cut of the skirt, gather the Assembly and distribute them evenly around the skirt.

8. Tack and pricecat the bodice to the skirt inner bridging seam or bent slice, put on a skirt and Topstitch finishing stitching on the bodice front side (optional). 

9. To prepare the bar and tack, combining the upper cut her with the depth of the neck.

10. Treating neck podkralas a facing width of 4 - 5 cm Sew the facing of the back and forepart at the shoulder sections, the seam resuturing. To attach the facing face side to the front side of the bodice, equating sections, and pritchet, then bend towards the inside, releasing the roll from the side of the bodice 0.1 - 0.2, see Second section of piping bend on the wrong side, stitch, departing from the fold at 0.1 cm, and attach in several places. 

11. Hem the bottom of the skirt, handle podkralas the armhole facing. 

12. Sew on buttons.