Dress costume solid soft wool or wool blend fabric (sizes 48 - 52), poluprilegayuschy form. Front of bodice and facing sideways, in which Stacey valves snap buttons. In the neck are two soft folds. Three-quarter sleeve with a cuff on the shelf one-piece. The back straight with vtachnoy sleeve. Stand-up collar-fold-over of two halves. Fastened to the collar strap of fabric finishing, matching color with the dress. Collar, flaps, cuffs, hem and side seamed wide finishing stitching thread to match the dress. Skirt one-piece with one-way pleat in the back.

Suit this style can be recommended to a young slender woman. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 312) 

Style was developed on the pattern of the basic drawing dresses and tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset. 

 The backrest (Fig. 312, a) lengthen from the waistline at the side cut and mid-back 15 - 18 cm (optional). 

 Sleeve to the back (Fig. 312, b). Split in half by drawing a line from center of crown to bottom. The resulting line is divided into four parts and three-quarter sleeves one-fourth to cut it off. The cutting line should pass parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves.

 The front panel of the dress (Fig. 312 in). To move the shoulder Darts in the neck need to connect it with the end of the shoulder tuck. The length of the shelves from the waist line equal to the length of the back, i.e. 15 - 18 cm Draw the bottom line parallel to the waist line. From a line drawn through the middle of the front defer up to 8 cm and from point 8 to the left - right angle 8 - 10 see the Undercut to vrachevanie gussets split in half and breaking point to connect with point 8 - 10. From a point 8 - 10 at a right angle to a line drawn draw a line to the intersection with the bottom line and from the same point to defer up 5 - 6 cm (the width of the valve).Point 5 - 6 to hold a second line valve, parallel to the first. To make the valve end, as shown in Fig. 312, V.

 Collar (Fig. 312, g). Build a rectangle whose length is equal to the measure of the semicircle neck plus 2 cm, i.e. 20 cm and width 9 - 10 cm From the upper right corner to the left to postpone 2 cm and from point 2 up and 1.5 cm From the lower corner to the left to defer 6 cm, then the angle is split in half and draw a line of length 4 cm. Draw the collar as shown in Fig. 312, g, connecting the dots 9 - 10, 1,5, 2, 4, 6. The top line is the line terminations. 

For a collar with long ends point 2 to connect with the lower right corner of the convex line. 

 Gusset (Fig. 312, d). The length of the gusset is split in half. 

 Cuff (Fig. 312, e). Build a rectangle whose length is equal to the circumference of the hand plus 2 - 3 cm (22 + 2 = 24 cm), width 6 cm Top and bottom lines split in half and from the points of division to defer up to 1 - 1.5 cm of the top Tips to extend cuffs by 1.5 cm to Make the cuff, as shown in Fig. 312 E. 

pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 313) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The backrest (see Fig. 312, a) be cut out of the pattern without changes. By the middle of the back to allow for the seams to Tachibana castle "lightning" 2 - 3 cm, at the shoulder cut 2 cm, to the armhole 1 cm side cut 2 cm, hem 4 - 5 cm 

 Sleeve to the back (Fig. 313, a). Prepared to find the pattern unchanged, and two parts common thread. 

 Shelf (Fig. 313, b). In the lines to make incision, from the bottom of neck to end of shoulder tuck tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new dart in the neck. 

 The flank (Fig. 313,). The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread. For the processing upper edge to otkroite obtachku a width of 2.5 cm (podkraj shown by hachures). 

 The valve (Fig. 313, d). To find four items. 

 Cuff (Fig. 313, d). To find four items. 

 Gusset (Fig. 313 e). To carve out two parts of half the gusset on the bias thread. 

 Finishing the bar (Fig. 313, f) be cut out of the bias thread length of 10 cm, a width minimized to 4 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 313.
 

Tailoring of the jacket 

1. To celebrate the mid-shelf cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the back to tacki castle "lightning". 

4. Baste and sew the Darts on the back. 

5. To lay soft folds in the neck shelves. 

6. Processing otechnye the hinges on the flaps and collar. 

7. To handle the collar, cuffs, flaps, and lay the finishing line of the thread to match the fabric (the width of the line 1 cm).

8. To handle the upper section of a barrel podkralas the facing, folding and facing the flank face inward, sew in the corner to make nadziejko, turn inside out, releasing the chute from the barrel, to iron. 

9. To attach the front side of the valve to the front side of part 3, treated side up. On the valve, and a shelf to put the item 4, combining the snare. Topstitch side on the shelf the finishing line, one-temporarily vracheva valve. 

10. To votate and vacate half sleeves in the armhole of the back.

11. Through podraza shelves to votate and vacate half of gusset (ultimate and vacilate on the bodice). The seam resaturate, then press in the direction of the shelves. On the front side for strength to stitch on the shelf thread to match the product seam with the width of 0.1 cm from the seam primaqiune gussets. 

12. Baste and sew the shoulder seams, simultaneously grinding off the seam of the sleeve. 

13. Tack and pritchet harvested the cuff sleeves. To vacate lock "lightning" in the middle of the back.

14. To votati collar into the neck, applying the lower collar to the front side of the jacket to equalize the slices and top to put a forward facing width 2.5 - 3 cm, with length equal to the neck, and pricecat. The bend facing towards the inside, the second slice her hand hemming stitches. 

15. To handle the bottom of the jacket facing the transversal, having put it together with the product inside out, sew, stitch resuturing, the bend facing towards the inside, the second cut it to bend inward and sew slanted stitches. At the bottom of the jacket to lay the finishing place equal to the width of the finishing line of the valve.

16. To prepare the bar finishing at the collar, to the end of her sew the buttons. 

17. To iron the jacket and sew on buttons. 

Layout of patterns on fabric and cutting of the skirt (Fig. 313, h) 

a Skirt of this cut to make a basic skirt pattern.

The fabric is folded in half face inward. The middle of the pattern the front piece of cloth to put to the bend of the fabric, then place the pattern back panels, aligning the side sections and the hips. The rest of the fabric goes in the crease. From the upper edge to retreat to the belt width, i.e. 4 see this layout work skirt with one-way pleat in the back. If patterns are to believe the contrary, that crease will come. 

Obelit patterns, to give allowance for filing of 4 see bottom 

For a skirt of this cut the required fabric width 120 - 140 cm

Unilateral crease can be laid in a straight line, extended or narrowed down to 2 - 3 cm 

Sewing skirts 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front panels and waist line skirt slip-stitch. 

2. Baste and stitch Darts. 

3. Baste and sew a one-sided fold at a distance of 16 - 18cm from waist line to hem (optional).

4. Handle the zipper under the pleat on the rear panel. 

5. Handle traveling cut grosgrain tape with facing. 

6. Hem the bottom and iron.