Dress suit solid wool or cotton (size 48 - 54). 


Jacket poluprilegayuschy. 


On the shelf from the undercut openings in which there are two soft folds. 


Welt pocket with flap. 


Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter, narrowed downwards. 


Turn-down collar one-piece with button closures above the waist line. 


Skirt one-piece with polutanata or unilateral crease. 


Dress this style can be recommended to women of high growth. 


Drawing style lines of the jacket on the pattern (Fig. 321) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 Back (Fig. 321, a). From waist line to lengthen the back of 13 - 16 Traveling see a tuck to reduce the depth of 2 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 321, b). From waist line to lengthen the shelf for 13 - 16 see the Length of the shelves to the depth of the tuck neck and to the waist line to divide into three parts and the lower end of the division to connect with the end of the pulley-block Darts. 

The ends of the shoulder tackle and Darts to join. From the chest at the armhole to defer up to 5 cm and received a point to connect with the traveling end of the tuck, which can reduce the depth by 2 cm 

 one-piece turn-down collar. From the depth of the neck down to postpone 6 cm Obtained point to connect with the top of the neck continuing the line to the width of the cut of the Rostock plus 1 cm i.e. 8 cm From point 8 to the right at a right angle to a line drawn to postpone the width of the collar (7 - 8 cm). From the depths of the neck to the right to defer 4 to 5 cm and from the received point up Point 1,5 cm 1,5, 7 - 8 connect. For entry of fasteners from the bottom division to the right to defer 3 cm and point 3 connected to point 4 - 5. 

 Place pocket. From the waist line on the second line of the tuck down to delay 3 - 5 cm and from the obtained point to draw a straight line parallel to the waist line, with length equal to the entrance of the pocket, i.e. 11 - 12, see From point 3 - 5 at the line Darts down to delay 1,5, see Points 11 - 12, 1,5 to join. From the lines to build the leaf width 3 to 4 cm 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the jacket (Fig. 322) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 Back (see Fig. 321, a). The middle patterns to put to bend fabric grain lines and cut out on the pattern unchanged with the addition to the seams sprout 0.5 cm at the shoulder and side sections of 1.5 - 2 cm, armhole 1 cm, bottom 4 cm 

 of the Upper part of the shelf (Fig. 322, a). For applying lines to make the undercut from the end of the pulley-block Darts to the shoulder. Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck at the bottom. 

 Podkraj collar (Fig. 322, b). To otkroite upper collar on the bottom along with the Board. 

 The lower part of the shelves (Fig. 322,). The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread and cause the line of entry into the pocket. 

 The valve (Fig. 322, d). In order not to disrupt the contour lines of the pattern, translate the pattern cutter valve and cut on the fabric the common thread four parts. Details for processing of the pocket (Fig. 322, d, e, g) carve out from the fabric length and width, as shown in Fig. 322. 

Tailoring of the jacket 

1. Baste and stitch Darts. 

2. Lay a soft crease at the top of the shelves. 

3. To connect the upper part of the shelves from the bottom. 

4. Baste shoulder and side seams and do a fitting.

In fitting to specify the location of pockets, length of the upper shelves. If the shelf is long or short, the length can change due to the seam allowance of the fabric when cutting. 

5. To handle a loop with one or two obrazkami. 

6. To handle the collar.

7. Handle flap (Fig. 322, h). On the front side of the shelf to mark the place and length of the cut pocket. Fold the upper part of the valve with the bottom face inside. The valve oblachat from the bottom, making the corners fit the top of the valve 0.2 see the Seams in the corners to cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2, see Valve turning, straightening and sweeping up from the bottom, releasing the roll top 0.1 see Valve priotity from the inside, remove the basting and lay the finishing line on the front side.

A shelf to put on the table face up and the flap folded against the shelf face inward exactly on the planned line is processed up. The width of the seam primaqiune valve 0.6 cm, the ends of the valve pin by a double line. To prepare the facing of the pocket the common thread length is 4 cm greater than the length of the slit pocket, and a width of 4 - 6 cm to Fold the facing in half with wrong side inside and promette. 

To raise the unhandled part of the valve, facing the ready to put on the shelf slices to cut the pocket and pricecat a seam width of 0.6 cm from tutu is valve. The ends of the threads from the tie lines.

The incision of the pocket to make the back of it between the lines, starting from the middle of the pocket to the ends of the line, not dorezaya of 0.7 cm and Then slit to nullify in the direction of each line, not dorezaya 0.1 cm to the ends of the lines. To turn the facing inside out, burlap to pricecat to the facing along the seam of her primaqiune to detail.

In the context of the pocket to the upper cut burlap to pristroit the valance, i.e. a piece of the main fabric, and burlap to pricecat to the valve in the seam primaqiune. Burlap pocket sew a seam 1 cm wide on three sides with rounded lines in the corners. At the same time to fix the ends of the pocket cross-stitching, prestativa tongues slit pocket to the burlap. Slices of obrazek and burlap neaten. 

The bottom side of the pocket can grind sacking without piping. When grinding the edge of the burlap to bend towards the inside in the width Kant plus seam allowance of 1 cm 

8. To vacate sleeves in armhole.

9. To sew the hem and iron. 

Drawing style lines on the skirt pattern (Fig. 323) 

the Style developed on the basic pattern drawing of a skirt. On the front panel of the skirt is expanded to apply a line cut from the tuck end of the left half of the skirt to the bottom line. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt (Fig. 324) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut.

Fabric to keep in expanded form, wrong side up, traveling cut myself. From the edge to the left to delay 3 to 4 cm for processing the upper edge of prosanos. From traveling cut down to postpone 22 - 23 cm and hold the hips parallel to the upper slice. Then the fabric to put the pattern front cloth skirt, pushing it from cut 3 to 4 cm and aligning the hips of the pattern with the hips on the fabric. To the front panel to put the pattern back, combining the side sections. In the same way to make the rest of the front pattern of the skirt.

The rest of the fabric will be polutanata left front panel. Obelit contour line patterns. 

The seam and hem the bottom shown in Fig. 324. 

 Note. On the same principle to cut one-piece skirt with one pleat, but instead of the upper and lower polutanata leave on half folds. Line polutanata or folds can be attributed closer to the side cut.
 

Sewing the skirt 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Hem the bottom of the skirt concealed stitches. 

4. Allowance for this when cutting down the left front panel (3 to 4 cm), bend towards the inside and hem with hidden stitches. 

5. Handle fastener length 13 - 14 cm On the left front panel at the locations of the loops to sew cross stitches equity obtachku width 1.5 - 2 cm.

6. On the right front panel, ie on the upper polosamote, bend 3 to 4 cm towards the wrong side and hem with hidden stitches. 

7. Handle pulley-block slice of equity facing a width of 2 cm, then sew the grosgrain ribbon to hand stitch the facing lower bend lines at 0.5 cm 

Grosgrain ribbon equal in length to measure the full waist circumference plus 2 cm to Sew it starting from the end of polutanata on the left front panel to the line of entry on the right panel. 

8. To iron a skirt, sew on hooks.