Feature 68 (see color figure at left) 

a Dress of plain thick fabric (sizes 46 - 54), one-piece, straight, poluprilegayuschy, without side seams. In the middle of the front, inverted pleat below the waist line, the seam vraboteni longitudinal pockets with two buttons. The backrest with one-way pleat. Short sleeve vtachnoy. The deep neckline is closed by an insert that can be changed in combination with the color of the dress. Collar one-piece, fold-over, snap-on bow ends. 

A dress of this style is recommended for proportional stacked shapes. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 238) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 The front panel (Fig. 238). To build a one-piece collar. The depth of the neck connecting with the top of it, continuing a line width of Rostock plus 1 cm i.e. 8 cm From the point at a right angle to postpone the width of the collar is equal to 8 - 11 cm depth of the neck right to defer 7 cm, held the line divided into three parts, from point 7 to defer up 2 see Points 2, 8 and 11 connect. The resulting line is split in half and the dividing point right to postpone 1 see

The middle shelves from the chest line to the waist line to split in half and the point of division to connect straight with the point 7. Issue unfastened portion of the collar, connecting all the points obtained, as shown in Fig. 238. 

The armhole from the shoulder cut down to defer 5 see Point 5 to connect with the second line of tackle Darts, extending it to the bottom. From the end of the shoulder tuck to cause the line move it to the slit arm openings. 

 Line the entrance to the pocket. From waist line, the second line of the tuck to delay down 5 cm and Then used to outline the entrance to the pocket (12 - 14 cm).

Pattern pieces are numbered to show the direction of the grain lines and supply the reference point. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 239) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The rear panel (Fig. 239, a) to find the pattern of the basic drawing dresses with side detail front cloth (part 1). To do this, fold the fabric in half face inside, the middle of the dress patterns back the cloth to move away from the fold of the fabric or edges in the half-width of a unilateral folds, i.e. 6 cm, then applying the lateral part of the front panel, aligning the side sections, checkpoints, and the hips. The side sections of the waist to extend to 1 cm, as shown in Fig. 239.

Check the width of the dress at the hip line from the mid back to mid front panels, which must be equal to the semicircle measure the hips plus 4 - 5 cm, not including the seam allowance at the fold (for a contoured fit the width of the dress at the hips is equal to the semicircle of the hips plus 2 cm). 

To the side parts of the front panels from waistline to add 7 cm on the unilateral half of the crease and extend the burlap pockets on the hips 2 cm, extending it to 4 see to apply for a burlap, as shown in Fig. 239. 

 The front panel of the dress (Fig. 239, b). On lines by the end of the shoulder tuck to make nadechka. Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck in the slit arm openings. From the waist line to add 7 cm to polsladko, expand and lengthen the burlap pocket as well as on the rear panel. 

With a lack of fabric at the cut lines of the parts 1 and 2 instead of the seam allowance at the fold to make bridging the seam.

By the middle of the front cloth from the points of division to allow for an inverted pleat in the Top 10 cm collar to carve out the shape of the lower. Podkraj width at the shoulder cut is 4 cm, at the waist - 5 cm Podkraj of the collar shown by hachures. 

 Sleeve can be cut off a short length of 20 - 25 cm, three-quarter or long. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 239.
 

Tailoring 

1. Mark the waistline and the middle of the back of the cloth cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. On the back panel sew the crease, not zastraivaya to the hem is 25 - 30 cm, and in the end to fix her cross-stitching. Waist to zastrochit crease deeper by 1 cm 

4. Baste and sew the side tuck.

5. Process pocket pleated front panels. Fold folds (item 2) through the entrance of the pocket to pave the equity edge or a strip of cloth to protect the pocket from stretching. The edge length equal to the length of the pocket plus 2 cm, width 1 - 1,5 cm 

6. Processing obecnie loops on the pockets. 

7. Baste and sew the front panel of the dress (part 2) side 1 detail, combining waist line and control points. Continue the string on the burlap pocket, clipping it at the end of the triple back pocket stitching, then continue stitching along the seam folds.

8. Baste and sew the crease in the middle of the front cloth of the dress is from end of collar down to 15 - 30 cm At the end of the crease to perestroit across and to press her to the bottom. 

9. Baste and sew the shoulder seams and handle collar. 

10. Sweep and vacate sleeves in armhole. 

11. Hem the bottom of the dress, to iron and to sew.