Dress of wool, cotton or fabric boucle (size 48 - 56). The bodice at the waist cutting with two Darts. The skirt is double seam, on the rear panel for two sided folds. The front panel of the skirt with the bottom pockets from the waist to the side seam. Sleeve one-piece, three-quarter. Bottom sleeve ends Podkayne valve. Collar - removable Schalke, turning into valve. On the collar, sleeves and pockets padded finishing line.

A dress of this style is recommended for women with protruding belly. The backward pockets conceal the appearance and visually enlarge the hips.

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 43)

Style developed on the pattern of the drawing of the bodice with tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset.

 The rear panel (Fig. 43, a). From the end of the pulley-block for receiving the tuck folds to hold the line of the incision down parallel to the line of the middle of the rear panel. For fasteners of the sleeves from the hem to the right to defer 7 - 8 cm and up 3 see plotting points to connect. A line cut of the bodice from the skirt must follow the waist line.

 The front panel (Fig. 43, b). The depth of the neck divided into four parts. The dividing point of the neck to connect with the end of the shoulder tuck. Hem sleeves applied to the valve. To do this, from the bottom right to postpone the 7 8 see the resulting cut is divided in half and the dividing point up to defer 3 see Point 3 connect point 7 to 8 and with the bottom of the sleeves.

Traveling tuck on the shelf to divide into two, placing one to the left from the middle of the front at 4 to 5 cm, and the second to the left from the first 5 cm and draw new Darts, as shown in Fig. 43 b. The depth of the recesses 2 see the line of the cut shelves from the skirt must follow the waist line.

 The line of entry into the pocket. From waist line down the side slice to postpone 15 - 17, see Point 15 - 17 to connect with the point 4 - 5, then the resulting line is split in half and the dividing point at a right angle down to postpone 1 cm arrange the entrance to the pocket, connect the dots, as shown in Fig. 43 b. Tuck in the skirt to build on the level of the second pulley-block Darts.
 

 Burlap pocket (part VII). From a point 15 - 17 at the cut side down set aside 10 - 12 see Point 4 - 5 to connect with point 10 - 12 a smooth line.

 Collar (Fig. 43). To build a rectangle with a length of 24 - 26 cm, width 17 cm From the lower right corner to the left to defer 3 cm and from the upper left corner - 7 cm (width of collar). Points 3, 7 connect, continuing this line of 7 - 8 cm Distance between points 3 and 7 divided into three parts. From the top of the division the right to postpone 2 cm from bottom, 1 cm to Issue a sewn part of collar connecting the points 3, 1, 2, 7 smooth line, as shown in Fig. 43, V.

From the top left corner to the right to defer 5, see the upper Right corner is split in half and to delay 9 see From point 7 to continue the line 1 cm Draw unfastened portion of the collar, connecting the bottom-right corner points 1, 5, 9. For the design of the valve from a point 7 - 8 up to draw a line that is parallel to the frame line and is equal to 14 cm and divide it in half. From the dividing point to the right to defer 7 - 8 cm, obtained point to connect with points 7 - 8, 14. Point 14 to connect with the unfastened part of the collar so that the frame line crossing the valve were equal to each other (the figure shows the equal signs =).

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 44)

 of the Backrest (Fig. 44, a). The back from the skirt cut to the waist line. For the treatment of the germ with removable collar and bottom of sleeves otkroite piping (shown by hachures).

 3аднее cloth skirt (Fig. 44, b). In a one-sided folds on the lines to make a cut and push the pattern to 18 - 20 see bottom line the depth of the folds decrease to 2 - 2,5 cm-Mid patterns back the cloth to put the fold of the fabric.

 Shelf (Fig. 44,). Shoulder tuck to move into the neck, for this caused from the neck lines to make the cuts by the end of the Darts, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck to close, thereby opening up new Darts at the neckline. The depth of recesses to distribute evenly. For deep soft tucks at the neckline to the middle of the shelves to add 2 - 3 cm (shown in phantom).

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 44, g). To separate the detail V of part VI, ie cut at the plotted lines. The rest of the tuck on the front panel of the skirt can be transferred to a lateral cut, then remove or leave in place, whereby the pocket will lag. The middle of the pattern is put to the bend of the fabric. To handle the entrance line to the pocket to find obtachku, i.e. the burlap pocket.

 The lateral part (Fig. 44, d) carve out together with the sacking of the pocket from the main fabric. The shortage of burlap fabric pocket can be otkroite of lining fabric on a 4 - 5 cm below the entrance of the pocket (podkraj from the underlying tissue shows touches).

 The gusset (Fig. 44, e) to find the pattern of the bodice with tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset.

 Collar (Fig. 44, g) to carve out in expanded form. Equity the thread should pass along the valve. Cut two parts.

The seam shown in Fig. 44.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves, front and rear panels of the skirt and collar cushioning seam.

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. Baste and sew the Darts on the back and the shelf.

4. Processing obecnie loop on the flaps of the sleeves and collar (see here).

5. Baste and sew the shoulder seams of the back and shelves, landing on the back.

6. Baste and sew the side seams of the back and shelves.

7. To votate and vacate gusset.

8. To handle the bottom of the sleeves podkralas the facing.

9. To lay soft folds in the neck and treat her podkralas the facing (in the middle of the shelves to make the cut), at the top of the neck to procure air loop for the clasp.

10. To handle the collar. Upper and lower collar folded face inward, to sweep away,at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the trimmed edge, making a small landing on the upper collar. Sew on and sew unfastened part collar, leaving in the middle of his nezastroennoe 4 - 5 see the Seams in the corners to cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm. to Make nadziejko in the corner of the transition collar to the valve. Remove the collar, straightening the seam to sweep away the collar, making the roll from the top of the collar. Nezastroennoe 4 - 5 cm at the line terminations of the collar to sew hidden stitches. To iron the collar.

11. Baste and sew pleats on the back panel of the skirt, taking in the folds of the back tuck.

12. Baste and sew in the side parts of the front cloth skirts tuck.

13. To handle the cut of the pocket's sacking, burlap and folded the skirt inside out and sew. The seam resuturing, to roll from the side of the part, prometall and iron.

14. To lay the finishing line on the collar, sleeves and pocket thread to match the dress.

15. To superimpose the front panel of the skirt on the flank, combining snares.

16. Baste and sew the burlap pocket.

17. Baste and sew the side seams of the front and rear panels of the skirt. Part of the remaining Darts on the front panel can be picked up in the side cut or left in place. In this case, the pocket will be a little lag (optional).

18. To connect the bodice to the skirt (tuck at the bodice must match the pleating on the skirt).

19. Hem the bottom of the skirt.

20. To iron dress. Sew on buttons.