Dress-suit of padded, smooth, soft silk or wool blend fabric (sizes 46 - 56). 


Jacket fitting, single-breasted, with a soft fold from the shoulder and front fastening. 


Front with soft draped pockets. 


The bottom is decorated scalloped Cape. 


Sleeve one-piece, three-quarter, stand-up collar-fold-over one-piece. 


Skirt one-piece, one-way pleat in the back. 


Dress-suit of this cut is recommended for women with narrow hips. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 315) 


the Style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset. 


 Back (Fig. 315, a) lengthen from the waistline at the side cut and the middle of the back of 18 - 20 cm and place the underline. 


 Cuff. From the bottom of the sleeve to the left to defer 1.5 cm Width cuffs on the top and bottom sections 6 see Point 6 to connect with a point of 1.5. 


 The shelf (Fig. 315, b). From the second line of the tucks at the shoulder cut to the left to defer 3 see From point 8 down to draw a line parallel to the line of the tuck, and then by the end of it. To build a collar. From the depth of the neck down to postpone 6 see Point 6 to connect the top of the neck continuing the line to the width of Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm i.e. 8 cm From point 8 at a right angle to a line drawn to postpone the width of the collar is 8 cm From the point 8 to the left to postpone 1 see Points 1, 8 connect.


The depth of the neck is divided into three parts. From the top of the division to defer to the right 13 cm and the resulting line is divided also into three parts. Point 13, 1 connect. From a point 13 up to postpone 2 see Point 2 are connected with the first breaking point. From the depth of the neck down to set aside 10 cm, and from the point 10 to the right for entry snap 2.5 cm 2.5 Point connected to point 13. From a point 13 delay down to 1.5 cm and the point 1.5 to connect with the first breaking point. From the waist line in the middle of the shelves and the side cut down to delay 18 - 20 cm (to lengthen the jacket).From the point of 2.5 to draw a line parallel down the middle of the shelves to the point 18 - 20. From the waist down on the side cut and tuck to delay for 8 cm and connect the dots smooth line, which is the cut line pocket.


Point 8 (for tuck) connected to point 18 - 20 in the middle of the shelves. The resulting line is divided into four parts, then from the points of division draw a line to cut the drapery, as shown in Fig. 315 b. To build a cuff as well as on the back. 


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 316) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The backrest (see Fig. 315, a) be cut out of the pattern without changes. The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread. 

 Shelf (Fig. 316, a). In the lines to make the undercut from the shoulder cut to the end of the shoulder tuck. Tuck closed, whereby opening of the new tuck farther from the neck. To carve out two parts of the common thread. The lower cut giving allowance for the burlap pocket 8 - 10 see the sleeve Length to be shortened by the width of the cuff. 

To otkroite upper collar on the bottom (shown in dashes in Fig. 316, a). 

 Draped pocket (Fig. 316, b). For applying lines to make the cuts, not dorezaya to the side of the slice 0.5 cm of the pattern to push to obtain soft folds (draped) 4 - 5 cm to Find the two parts. 

 Burlap pocket (Fig. 316,) to carve out the shape of the burlap shelves length 8 - 10 cm (two parts). The cuff to the shelf and back to carve out the shape of the bottom of the sleeves.

Cutting and sewing skirts. see previous feature 89 (Fig. 313, h). 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 315 and 316. 

Tailoring of the jacket 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. Baste and sew Darts on back and press them to the middle of the back. 

4. To zastrochit soft folds on the shelf length 8 - 10 cm, at the end to consolidate their cross stitching. 

5. Lay the drape on the pocket. 

6 to Handle the pocket's sacking, cut from the main fabric. Fold the pocket and the burlap facing inward, sew, turn inside out, releasing the roll from the pocket by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, to iron. Baste and sew the pulley-block tuck on the shelf to the entrance to the pocket. 

7. To put the prepared pocket on the flank of a jacket, combining the traps and the side sections.

8. The inner cut of the Cape ledges to the notch to bend towards the inside in the width of the seam allowance given in the pattern cutting, to impose on the pocket, combining the snare tack with the transfer seam, then sew from the inside out. 

9. Processing obecnie loop on the right shelf. 

10. Baste and sew lower collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. The middle of the collar pin to the middle of Rostock, baste shoulder seams and the top seam of the sleeve, Posiva shoulder backless in the blades. To votati collar in Rostock. In the corners of the collar to make nadechka. To pritchet seam width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm (from the notch).

11. Baste and sew the side seams of the shelf with a back. Press the seam in the back side, the side seam is part of burlap pocket. Sew the burlap slices from the pulley-block Darts to the side seam. 

12. To votate and vacate gusset. In the corners, i.e. locations of nasechek on the shelf and the back of the line to reduce by 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge, and then sutures vrachevanie gussets to bend in the direction of the product. For strength to stitch on the piece with the front side of the silk thread, stepping back from seam gussets primaqiune 0.1 - 0.2 see

13. To prepare the cuff, folded it inside out. Sew in the corners of the excess fabric to cut off, to turn on the front side, straightening the seam, releasing the chute from the upper cuff by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometall and priotity. Fold down top cuff and sleeve inside out, equalizing the slices. Top to make Podkayne obtachku a width of 3 to 4 cm, are cut by a transverse filament, tack, pritchet, fold the facing in the direction of the sleeve, the second bend cut and sew hidden stitches to the sleeve.Cuff to fold down, but it can rotate on the sleeve, in this case the sleeve is shorter than the width of the cuff.

14. Baste and sew the collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. The collar can be cut out together with podborta and facing to handle the Cape and the lower edge of the pocket. The shortage of fabric podbot can be ground off in several places below the first loop on the 3 4 see Tack the collar to the bottom and simultaneously process the length of the shelves. In the corners of the upper collar to make the fit. To pritchet, turn on the front side, releasing the chute before the first loop from the top of the collar, and the loop from the shelves by 0.1 - 0.2 cm to Handle the bottom of the jacket podkralas a facing width of 4 - 6 cm.To attach the facing face side to the front side of the jacket, equalizing the slices. To pritchet, stitch resuturing, the bend facing towards the inside, releasing the roll by 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the jacket. The second section of piping to bend 0.5 - 1 cm and hem of the jacket manually concealed stitches.