Dress from fabric a solid or small patterns (sizes 46 - 52). Cutting the bodice below the breast line and ends in the middle of the front flap, fastened with button. From the line of Pedraza in bodice laid two soft folds. The skirt undercut in the pulley-block tuck. From podraza on skirt slight drape. The undercut is covered by a shaped flap, which is sewn into the waist. The valve can be cut out together with the lower part of the bodice. The bow is sewn by hand under the flap to the seam stitching tucks. The lower part of the bow hem trim fabric to match the dress.The skirt can be cut out in two ways: first, when the valve is one-way pleat, and second, if the lack of fabric on the pleated skirt cut out only the Drapes in the undercut (Fig. 260, a).


Back to the dress may be telekrona or cut-off for waist (optional). Sleeve, casting, narrowed down. 


A dress of this style can be recommended to full women of high stature and figure with a long waist. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 261) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 


 Back. To build tselnokrajnie rack, as shown in Fig. 261.


 The front panel (Fig. 261, b). The side sections from the depth of the armhole to the waist to split in half and the dots connect. At the point of intersection of the line of mid-shelf to defer up 3 inches and draw a shaped line, as shown in Fig. 261 b. From point 3 to defer the width of the valve (6 cm), i.e. in one and the other sides of the middle shelves are 3 cm From the depth of the neck down to postpone 13 cm, and from the point And down 3 cm to place the valve, as shown in Fig. 261 b.


For tselnokrajnie rack shelves shoulder cut from the top of the neck continue to the right at 4 cm, and up to postpone 1 see Point 1 to connect with the top neck, then points 1, 13 to connect a smooth line, the result will be the neck. 


To obtain draperies to apply a line displacement of the shoulder tuck to undercut and advanced to second pleats a - line cut from the end of the valve to the shoulder cut.


Traveling tuck on the left side of the front cloth skirts to move closer to the side cut. This distance from the side of the cut to the depth of the waist Darts split in half and the dividing point down to draw a line equal to the length of the tuck, and the end of this line to connect with the end of the pulley-block Darts. 


 Bow. From the line of travel of the tuck to continue the line of the waist so that it was equal to the length of the bow, i.e. 15 cm From the end of the line down to postpone 15 see also the points Obtained to combine, continuing the line down to 2 cm Point 2 to connect with the end cut lines. Valve width at the waist 6 cm of the cut line in the other direction to lay 3 cm valve Length equal to the length of podraza, and its width at the bottom 7cm, i.e. by 3.5 cm in the other side of the cut line. For the design of the toe valve from the end of the section down to postpone 3 cm and place the valve.Apply the cut pattern for the drapery, as shown in Fig. 261 b.


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 262) 

 Back to carve out the pattern of the basic drawing dresses with built tselnokrajnie stand. If the back telekrona, then the middle rear cloth can give when cutting allowance for one-way pleat, i.e. the middle of the back of the cloth patterns to move away from the fold of fabric on 6 - 7 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 262, a). For applying the pattern lines to cut. Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck hem shelves for soft folds. For the second crease from the line of podraza shelves to the shoulder slice cut pattern, not dorezaya 0.5 cm, and take the side its on 6 - 8 cm When cutting the middle of the top of the shelf (item 1) to put to the bend of the fabric. The lower part of the shelf (Fig. 262, b) put also to bend the tissue. 

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 262, C). On the put line of travel of the traveling tuck pattern to cut, to close the tuck, thereby opening up new modified tuck through podraza. The first line of Darts split into four parts and to obtain draperies to apply cut lines to the traveling block tuck on the right panel of the skirt. The pattern to be cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm, and push every part of her at 4 cm, closing the tuck on the right panel of the skirt (Fig. 262, e). 

 The bow (Fig. 262, g) be cut out of the pattern.

Styling draping make the cut on the front panel of the skirt, as shown in Fig. 262, and E. To handle the valves of the skirt (Fig. 262, d) to otkroite obtachku 0.5 cm already the top of the valve. For valve at the bottom of the shelves to cut out the facing along the line of podraza wider valve in the other direction on a 2 - 3 cm (shown in dashes in Fig. 262, b). 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 262.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the rear cloth of the dress front and skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Handle valve on the shelf podkralas the facing, folding the facing and the valve face inside. Then pricecat, make nadziejko in the corners, resuturing seams, fold the facing towards the inside, releasing the roll from the side of the valve by 0.1 - 0.2 cm 

4. Baste and sew the shoulder seams shelves and back, neaten the seam, press in the back side, handle podkralas the neckline facing.

5. Lay the drape at the top of the shelves (part 1). On the lower shelves (part 2) the upper section to bend towards the inside in the width of the seam allowance given in the pattern cutting, to prometti, priotity, then apply the lower part of the shelves on top, combining the snare, tack transfer of the stitch and pritchet from the inside out. 

6. Lay one-way pleat on the left panel of the skirt, tuck the drape in the undercut tuck. Baste and sew undercut, folding sections face inward. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm 

7. To prepare the bow and attach manually to the seam stitching of podraza.

8. Baste and sew the side seams shelves and back. 

9. To put the prepared valve skirt to the middle of it lay on the seam stitching cut and tack the valve. 

10. Tack the bodice to the skirt, aligning the side seams and traveling tuck, then pricecat. Further processing is the same as in dress style 1.