Dress of wool, thin wool blend fabric (sizes 44 - 52), cut at the waist line. The attached bodice, front inset, vystroeny tucks (small folds) or corded stitching. Closure single-breasted a single button. Front bodice stitched to the insert wide decorative stitching. Neckline with an open notch neckline and small stand tselnokrajnie with gently falling pleat (tuck). 

The skirt is narrow with one-way pleat on the back panel and the counter on the front panel. The ends of the insert tacheny soft Darts. Sleeve one-piece, three-quarter.

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 58) 

the Style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset. 

 The backrest (Fig. 58, a). The height of the sprout up put 2 - 3 cm Mid-back to continue to a level stand height, i.e., points 2 and 3, plotting points to connect. From the point of intersection down to postpone 1 cm from point 2 - right 3 - 0.5 cm 0.5 of a Point to connect with a shoulder cut. 1 point, 0,5 to connect a smooth line. A line cut from the back the skirt is on the waist line, if you want a dress you can do tselnokrajnimi, ie not cut at the waist line. 

 Shelf (Fig. 58, b). To obtain stand shoulder cut to continue to the right by 2 - 3 cm From point 2 - 3 up to delay of 1 - 1.5 cm Point 1 is 1.5 to connect with the top of the neck. From the depth of the neck down put 2 - 3 cm From point 2 - 3 left to hold the auxiliary line of an arbitrary length, and from top of neck down to hold the line to the intersection with her. To make the rack, i.e. the connecting point of 1 - 1.5 with a point of intersection. The depth of the neck down to delay 9 - 10 cm and from point 9 - 10 right of entry snap 2.5 cm From point of 2.5 down to draw a straight line to the waist line.Segment from 9 - 10 to the depth of the neck is divided into three parts, then the intersection points and 2.5 connect to the lower point of division of a smooth line. To move the shoulder Darts in the neck to connect the end with the corner notched neckline.

For applying the line of paste from the middle of the shelves (against the end of the shoulder tuck) to the left, to postpone the 7 - 8 cm (half the width of the insert) and at the shoulder cut from the second line tuck also left - 1 - 1.5 cm Then a line of Darts split into four parts and from the first point of division from the top to postpone 1 cm, from the second - 1.5 cm, from the third - 2 cm From the middle shelf to the left at the waist to postpone the 5 6 see Point 1 - 1,5, 1, 1,5, 2, 7 - 8, 5 - 6 to connect as shown in Fig. 58 b.

A tuck at the waist to move to the cutting line of inserts, for which point 5 - 6 to postpone the depth of Darts equal to the previously applied, i.e. 4 cm For transferring Darts on the skirt to connect the end point of 5 - 6 and the resulting line is divided into three parts. The first point of division (upward) to connect with an allowance for day length at the waist. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 59) 

 of the Backrest (Fig. 59, a). For applying the pattern lines to cut. When cutting wide fabric seam in the middle of the back can not do, and to put it to the fold of the fabric. To handle stand otkroite obtachku equal to the height of the rack plus 3 - 4 cm for the binder. 

 3аднее cloth skirt (Fig. 59, b). For one-sided creases by the middle of the rear cloth skirts add 6 - 7 cm and the bottom line to reduce it to 1.5 - 2 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 59). For applying lines to cut the insert from the shelves (part 4). For this purpose, the pattern the front piece of cloth to move the cutter or using thin paper in the form of the insertion (Fig. 59, g) and cut it out, keeping the basic lines of the pattern.

Half of the shoulder Darts to move into the neck. To do this, lines from the notched neckline to the end of the shoulder tuck to cut the pattern, half tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck at the cut lines. To transfer the second half of the Darts on lines from point 1 - 1,5 over 1,5 point, then through the end of the shoulder tuck to make the cut. The rest of the Darts close, and it will be opened at the cut edge of the insert, then continue the cut from point 7 - 8 points 5 - 6 below the waist line on the dart.

Before we will open the insert calculated and Topstitch tucks. For this, the length of the pattern insert to give the seam allowance of the fabric on the pockets. For example, the width of the pockets of 0.2 - 0.3 cm, single pockets fabric you need two times more, i.e., 0.4 - 0.6 cm In the part 40 of the pockets, means to the length of the pattern you need to add 40 x 0.4 = 16 cm plus seams, and the width is 6 cm and Then harvested fabric folded wrong side inside, combining pintucks, shear pins, apply the pattern, combining a line direction of the grain lines of the pattern with the tucks (Fig. 59, d).Piping for the treatment of neck and length of shelves to carve out after placing the soft tuck.

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 59, e). For pereseleniya traveling tuck make a cut from point 5 to 6 by the end of it. Tuck to close, thereby opens the new cut lines for softer crease. By the middle of the front cloth to add to a unilateral fold of 10 - 12 cm, hem depth to reduce it to 1.5 cm 

Allowance for seams is shown in Fig. 59.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, insert front and rear panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Lay a soft tuck on the neck and lock it. 

4. Processing obtenue loop to insert one or two obrazkami (see here). 

5. Treating the neck and a fastener insertion podkralas the facing. 

6. Treat the inside cut shelves podkralas the facing (item 4), folded them face inward. To make nadziejko, turn inside out, straighten the seam, releasing the roll from the primary by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, sweeping up and priotity.

7. Sew the middle of the back. 

8. Baste and sew the Darts on the back. 

9. Baste and stitch Darts and a pleat on the back panel of the skirt. 

10. Baste and sew the back with the back panel of the skirt. 

11. Processing rack backrest podkralas the facing. 

12. Baste and sew the pleat on the front panel of the skirt. 

13. Lay a soft tuck at the waistline on the front panel of the skirt.

14. On the inner fold of the tuck to make nadziejko on the width of the seam primaqiune skirt to the bodice. Nadziejko to do next depending on the depth of the tuck, i.e. to cut the insert reached the bend folds, and the finishing line must not go beyond the inner fold of the tuck. 

15. Baste and sew the front panel of the skirt. the bodice, ranging from a mild tuck to the side of the slice. 

16. To impose the flank of the bodice insert, to baste, then lay finishing line, departing from the fold 1 cm, continuing the stitching on the skirt half tuck.

17. Remaining on the departure part of the skirt at the waist to attach to the left of the insertion machine stitch or hand stitch. 

18. Baste and sew the shoulder seams, simultaneously grinding off the rack and piping backrest and shelves (if smachivanie shoulder seams back to pripasayte and shelf pull). 

19. Shoulder seam to resaturate, then press in the back side. From the beginning stand to make nadziejko in the front seam shelves. Sections of piping to bend 0.5 cm hem on the machine, stepping back from the bend of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and secure hand stitches. 

20. Sew side seams and bottom seam of sleeve. Seams to resaturate.

21. To votate and vacate the gusset (see here). 

22. To handle the bottom of the sleeves podkralas the facing. 

23. Hem the bottom of the dress.