Dress of wool or heavy silk fabric (sizes 46 - 54), cutting below the waist line and curved undercut on the chest. From figure podraza soft crease. The back is attached. The skirt is pleated or ripple, short sleeve, one-piece. Collar telekrona stand, turning into the Cape. 

A dress of this style it is recommended that women with a short waist high growth. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 256) 

the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with attached short sleeve and gusset. 

 3аднее flag (Fig. 256, a). The height of the sprout up to defer 3 see the Middle of the back to continue to the level of point 3 and the points to connect. From the point of intersection down to delay 0.5 cm and place the rack as shown in Fig. 256, and. From the waist line in the middle of the back down to lay 10 - 12 cm and side cut - 9 - 10 see Point 10 - 12 and 9 - 10 connect. 

 The front panel (Fig. 256, b). Shoulder cut to continue to the right by 1 cm and upward at right angles to a line drawn to postpone the height of the stand, i.e., 3 see Point 3 to connect with the depth of the neck smooth line, then cut with a shoulder, as shown in Fig. 256 b. To lengthen the bodice from the waist on the second line of the tuck to delay down 10 to 12 cm, and side cut - 9 - 10 see Point 9 - 10 and 10 - 12 to join. From point 10 to 12 to draw a line to the bottom, and from the intersection point to the left for rascles front of the wedge to postpone 2 see Point 10 to 12 to connect with the point 2.Half pulley-block darting to the left move 5 cm closer to the side cut. To build a tuck, extending it to the end of the side. The rest of the Darts to move to the middle of the front. For rascles front of the wedge along the hem of the right to defer 1.5 cm Point 2 to connect with point 1.5 and the middle of the front to level the length of the tuck.

 Obtaining curly podraza (plastron). From the depth of the neck down put the 12 cm and from point 12 to the beginning of podraza left - 3 cm Point 3 to connect the end of the side tuck. For a soft tucks at the neck to cause the cutting line. From the top of the neck at the shoulder cut to the left to defer 4 see Points 3 and 4 to connect the dotted line. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 257) 

 Back (see Fig. 256, a) be cut out of the pattern with elongated waistline. To otkroite obtachku to handle the strut (shown by hachures). 

 The front panel (Fig. 257). By applying the line pattern cut, not dorezaya to the shoulder cut at the 0.5 cm Side of the pattern to take the left at 4 cm Lateral tuck close, due to what appears enlarged tuck at the waist line. From the first line tuck make a cut above waist line in 6 - 7 cm, then nadsech in the side of the cut at half the depth of the tuck as shown in Fig. 257. When cutting the plastron to give the allowance in a skirt half the depth of the folds, i.e. 4 cm For the skirt pleated to measure the distance of the width of the plastron at the line terminations of the shelves and back.Fabric width will need three times the measured line terminations.

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 257.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front cloth cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Processing obecnie loop on the shelf. 

4. Baste and sew the Darts on the back.

5. Process the slices of the plastron podkralas the facing, applying the facing to the primary face inward. Tack and pritchet on the machine. The seams in the corners to cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.3 cm to turn on the front side, straightening the seam, sweep, releasing the roll from the side of the plastron. Priotity. Tack to the side of the bodice, aligning the shaped line, while laying a soft tuck at the neckline. On the front side to lay the finishing line to the first prong of width 1 - 1.5 cm, and the buttons sew down the inner seam.

6. Sew the seam in the middle of the front cloth of the dress, seam to resaturate. 

7. Sew shoulder seams and press them towards back. 

8. Sew the facing shoulder stands in the cut, the seams resuturing. To pristroit the facing to the front of the bodice, fold inside out, straighten the seam, priotity, edge piping to sew on the machine, attach to the shoulder seams and the seam of the front. In the fold of the tuck Welt to make a loop for the bow. 

9. Baste and sew the side seams of the back and shelves, the seams resuturing.

10. To votate and vacate gusset. In places podraza on the shelf and the back of the line to reduce by 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge. For strength you should stitch the gusset from the front side of the product silk threads to match the fabric, stepping back from seam primaqiune 0.1 - 0.2 cm the bend sections of the gussets in the side of the product.

11. To handle the bottom of the sleeves podkralas the facing. Fold the facing and sleeve facing inward, equating sections. Sweep, sew the facing, turn inside out, releasing the roll from the sleeve. Sweep it, the seam to press. The second section of piping bend on the wrong side, stitch on the machine at 0.1 cm from the fold and sew hidden stitches. 

12. Processing area on the bottom shelves of the plastron. 

13. To cover the bottom of the bodice to the width of the seam allowance.

14. Baste and sew the seams of the plastron with a skirt.

15. To fasten with a pin the middle of the rear cloth skirts with a back. To baste the bodice to the skirt and Topstitch (stitch width of 1 - 1.5 cm). If the skirt corrugation, folds to sweep in one direction, since the first folds from the plastron. 

16. Hem the bottom of the wedge skirts. To iron the dress and to sew on buttons.