Dress-suit of a monochromatic light woolen or cotton fabric (sizes 46 - 52). Jacket at waist cutting with pockets. At the shoulder the cut of the sleeve is cut, the cutting line ends with the patriots. Collar cut out along with a strap to the bottom of the jacket. On the back at the bottom of the jacket are sewn on the placket, which is attached to the pocket single-button closure. Skirt one-piece with one-way pleat in the back. 

Dress this style can be recommended to women with narrow shoulders. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 330)

The style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi adjacent sleeve and gusset. 

 Back (Fig. 330, a). The width of Rostock at the shoulder cut right to postpone shoulder width (13 cm). From point 13 to postpone the width of the opening (4 cm). Side cut into three parts and point 4 to connect a line with the upper point of division. The scribed line is also divided into three parts, from the bottom division to the left to defer 5.5 cm, upper 4 cm, from point 4 down to 1 cm and the point 1 is connected with the point 13. Points 1, 4, 5,5 and the upper point of division on the side cut to connect a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 330. The line is the line of the armhole of the back.

The width of the shoulder, i.e. the point 13, to connect the dotted line with the upper point of division along the side cut. This line is the line of the cut sleeve. 

Jacket length from waist line for side cut and mid-back 16 - 18 see 

 beyka. Bakey, width 5 cm, and its length equal to the width of the jacket at the hem, plus 12 see Bake at the end to finish the Cape. For this width to divide it in half, and the right to postpone 2 cm to Make the Cape as shown in Fig. 330. 

 Shelf (Fig. 330, b). From the top of the neck at the shoulder cut to the left to postpone a shoulder width shelves (12 cm). From point 12 to postpone the width of the opening (4 cm). Side cut into three parts and the upper point connecting with the point 4. The resulting line is divided also into three parts and from the top of the division right to defer 5 cm, from the bottom - 7 cm, from point 4 down - 1 see Points 1, 12 connect. Points 1, 5, 7 and the upper point of division on the side cut to connect a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 330 b. The line is the line of the armhole shelves.

The shoulder width of the shelf, i.e., point 12, to connect with top division side cut a smooth line. This line is the line of the cut sleeve. 

Jacket length from waist line on the side and cut the middle of the front 16 - 18 cm 

On the side cut up to defer 5 cm hem jacket right to defer 15 cm and from 15 points up to 6 cm First line of tackle Darts to connect with points 6, 5 smooth line. 

 Collar with strap. From the depth of the neck down to postpone 6 see Point 6 to connect the top of the neck, continuing it to the width of the cut of the Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. 7.5 - 8 cm Width of the stand-up collar 4 cm. From point 4 draw a line parallel to the lower line, to the level of the top of the neck. The segment from point 6 to the top of the neck divided into three parts and from the top of the division the right to postpone the escape width of the collar, i.e. the 10 see Point 10 to connect the rack width, the resulting line is split in half and down to delay 0.5 cm.

From the depth of the neckline and hem of the jacket from the middle shelf to the right to defer to the entry zipper 2 cm plotting points connect with a straight line. By the line sunset from the depth of the neck down to postpone 12 - 13 cm and unfastened portion of the collar, ie, the point 10 connected to point 12 and 13. The resulting line is split in half and the dividing point left to postpone 1 see Issue unfastened portion of the collar, as shown in Fig. 330 b. Strap width of the collar 4 cm From the line of entry of the shelves (from the depth of the neckline and hem) right to postpone for 4 cm and plotting points to connect.The drawn line is the cutting line of the collar strap.

 Cuff (Fig. 330,). The length of the cuff is equal to the circumference of the hand plus 4 - 5 cm and width 5 cm. Length Cape 2 see 

pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 331) 

 Back (Fig. 331, a, b, C). The middle patterns of the backrest (Fig. 331, a), the Basques (Fig. 331, b) and bakey (Fig. 331,) in the bottom of the jacket to put to the bend of the fabric. Traveling tuck in baška close. To the armhole of the backrest to otkroite obtachku; wide shoulder cut of 6 - 7 cm, lateral - 2 - 3 see 

 beyka. To carve out two parts in an equity or cross thread. The bottom should be 0.5 cm narrower top. 

 Sleeve to the back (Fig. 331, d). To separate the sleeve from the back, put it under a pattern a clean sheet of paper and to move the cutter, then cut out on the fabric. 

 Shelf (Fig. 331, d, e, f). When cutting the middle of the pattern shelves to put the grain lines and cut out the two parts. To the armhole to otkroite obtachku, equal to the width of the facing of the back. 

 For collar strap (Fig. 331, z) to carve out four parts (two upper and two lower), and the middle of the strap must pass through a common thread. 

 Sleeve to the shelf (Fig. 331,) separate from the pattern as well as in the back, and cut out.

 The cuff (see Fig. 330,) be cut out of the pattern in two parts. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 331
 

Tailoring of the jacket 

1. To celebrate the middle of all of the parts of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew tackle Darts at the bust. 

4. Baste and sew the shoulder seams shelves and back, Posiva shoulder backless. Press the seam towards the back. 

5. Processing podkralas the facing armhole shelves and back, putting a face facing to the front side of the jacket, sew, nadsech angles at the shoulder sections, resuturing seams, fold the facing towards the inside, releasing the roll by 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the side of the product, prometall and priotity.

6. Baste and sew the upper sections of the sleeve. 

7. To put the bodice on the sleeve, combining the main lines of the pattern, tack and pritchet from the front side of the finishing line for the width of the opening (shoulder-width line of 4 cm, to the armhole depth line to negate). 

8. Baste and sew the side seams shelves and back, and the lower sections of the sleeves, starting from the notch of vrachevanie gussets. The side seams to press into the side of the shelves.

9. To votate and vacate gusset. At the locations of Pedraza on the shelf and the back of the line to reduce by 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge. For strength, the sections of grinding the gussets to bend in the direction of the product, to stitch the item on the front side of the silk thread to match dresses, retreating from the seam of the gusset primaqiune 0.1 - 0.2 cm to Prepare the cuff, peregnul it along to oblachat on three sides, leaving open one slice. The bend at the end of the Cape to make nadziejko, in the corners of the excess fabric to cut off. Remove the cuff on the front side, straightening the seam, releasing the chute from the upper cuff by 0.1 - 0.2 seeAt the bottom of the sleeve to lay 2 - 3 soft pleats at the side of the elbow. To put an end to the top of the cuff on the bottom end and staple it. Then fold up the bottom cuff to the wrong side of the bottom of the sleeves, equalizing the slices, baste, and sew, by bending the upper part of the cuff, the seam to bend in the direction of cuff. Section of the upper cuff to turn inside out and sew it manually over the seam primaqiune. Sew a button to the cuff.

10. Processing line the entrance of the pocket (part 7) podkralas the facing folded her pocket inside out, equalizing the slices. Sew the facing to bend towards the inside, releasing the roll from the pocket by 0.1 - 0.2 cm to put a pocket (item 7) on side peplum (part 6), combining the main lines of the pattern, and tack. 

11. Baste and sew the side seams peplum to handle the seam from the wrong side and press to the side of the shelves. 

12. Tack and pritchet peplum to the bodice of internal bridging seam.

13. Sew upper and lower collar in the middle, the seams resuturing. Processing obecnie loop on the strap. 

14. To connect the upper and lower collar in unfastened parts. Seams to resaturate to make the notch in the corners, turn the collar on the front side, releasing the chute before the first loop from the top of the collar, and from the first loop is from the bottom, i.e. straps.

15. To handle the bottom of the jacket podkralas facing transverse width of 4 - 5 cm Fold the facing and the jacket inside out, pritchet, stitch resuturing, the bend facing towards the inside, releasing the roll by 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the jacket. The second section of piping to bend in the direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm and hem concealed stitches manually.

16. Pritchet to the bottom collar along with the placket to the front and the back, seam to bend in the direction of the strap, to prometti, lay the second slice of the upper collar (pre-bending the cut 0.7 - 1 cm towards the wrong side) and sew by hand to seam primaqiune the bottom of the collar. 

17. Oblachat to beyka (item 3) on all sides, leaving the bottom of nezastroennoe 2 - 3 cm, turn on the front side, prometti, releasing the chute from the upper borders. Priotity bake and attach to the bottom cut jacket with concealed stitches on the pocket to attach it back. 

Cutting and sewing of skirt, see previous style 93 (Fig. 328).