Gown of plain wool or silk cloth (sizes 48 - 56). 


Cutting the bodice above the waist line with a small length of the shelves deep in the neck. 


Instead of tackle Darts laid soft folds. 


The backrest can be detachable on the waist line or telekrona. 


Skirt with high waistline and one-way pleat on front panel from figure podraza. 


Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter. 


The one-piece collar. 


This dress can tailor with the high waistline on the front and rear panels, poluprilegayuschy without a belt.


A dress of this style it is recommended that both full and proportionally folded shapes. 


Women having short neck should do a fold-over collar. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 80) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 


Traveling tuck to move to the side cut at 8 cm and from point 8 to one or the other side to lay half the depth of the tuck, i.e. at the 2, see to Build a tuck.


A side cut from the armhole to the waist line to divide into three parts and the lower end of the division to connect with the end of the pulley-block Darts. The resulting line is split in half and the dividing point delay down to 0.5 cm, draw a smooth line Empire waistline. From center front waist to the right to defer 3 see the End of tackle Darts to connect with point 3, continuing the line of the skirt 8 cm From point 8 draw a line parallel to the middle of the front, to the bottom.


Shelves for the left intersection point on the line of mid front to connect with the end of the pulley-block and tuck the lower point of division of the lateral cut. Draw a cut line skirts as well as on the right of the front panel. 


From the point of intersection of the line of mid front for entry shelves to postpone 2 cm, the depth of the neck down - 10 see Point 10, 2 to connect, as shown in Fig. 80. 


 Collar. The depth of the neck at the middle of the front down to defer 3 see the resulting point to connect with the top of the neck continuing the line to the width of Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. 7,5 - 8 cm stand Width at right angle to 4 cm From point 4 draw a line parallel to the lower edge of the collar to the level of the top of the neck. The width of the escape of the collar from the top of the neck to the right 10 see Point 10 in the middle of the front and unfastened of the collar to connect, extending upward from the escape of the collar by 2 cm to Make the collar as shown in Fig. 80.


To obtain soft pleats below the chest line to apply a line displacement of the shoulder tuck, joining the ends of the shoulder tackle and Darts. 


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 81) 


 3аднее the cloth be cut out of the basic pattern unchanged. 


 The shelf (Fig. 81, a). For applying the pattern lines to cut. Shoulder tuck to move in relief from the waist line. To obtain a greater depth of crease pattern to retract to the left by 3 cm, 


 the Front panel of the skirt (Fig. 81, b). For applying line pattern to cut and push on the fabric for one-sided folds, i.e. 18 cm Allowance for seams and supplies for the upper cut skirt to give 0.7 cm deep podraza items - half the width of the folds on the side of cut - 2 - 3 cm, for filing bottom - 4 - 5 see 


Sewing 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves, front and rear panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. To lay soft folds at the bodice, baste, and sew tackel tuck, to lay one-way pleat on the skirt, baste shoulder and side seams of bodice and skirt, baste the skirt to the bodice and do the fitting. Refine while fitting the height of the line of Pedraza, the location of the soft folds at the bodice, and then start sewing.

4. Baste and sew the middle of the bottom of the collar seam to resaturate. Baste shoulder seams, votati collar, sew shoulder seams, collar vracheva at the same time in Rostock. To pritchet podkraj collar, attaching the front side of the top collar to the front bottom, landing in the escape from the top of the collar. Seams to resaturate, remove the collar on the front side, releasing the roll from the top of the collar. The lower section of the top of the collar to bend in the direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm, obtusate and hem to the shelf manually. The sprout top collar to sew the seam primaqiune.

5. Handle loops on the skirt one or two obrazkami. 

6. Sew the Darts on the skirt, to press toward the front and rear panels of the skirt. 

7. Processing podkralas the facing upper edge of the skirt. The width obtachki 3 to 4 cm to Fold the facing and the skirt inside out, equalizing sections, obtusate seam width 0.7 cm Excess fabric in the corners to cut. To resaturate seam, fold the facing towards the inside, releasing the roll from the side of the skirt by 0.1 - 0.2 cm Neaten the seam, priotity.

8. Lay the fold on the skirt, and sew the inner seam from the top of the cut, not destrucive to hem 25 - 30 cm At the end of the fold to secure the cross stitching. 

9. To baste skirt to bodice and pritchet finishing stitching on the front side seam 1 cm wide or internal bridging seam. 

10. Baste and sew the side seams of the skirt. Seams to resuturing or bend in the direction of the front cloth skirts. 

11. To handle the lower section of the sleeve facing podkralas a width of 6 - 7 cm Wmeat and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. Hem the bottom of the dress, to iron and to sew.