Dress of wool blend, wool or thick silk cloth (sizes 50 - 64), one-piece. 


Down this dress is slightly widened. 


Below the waist are shaped undercuts, which vraboteni pockets. 


Back telekrona with clipped waist and accordion pleats. 


Sleeve vtachnoy. 


Collar - telekrona of the season. 


On the collar and pockets trim the darker fabric to match the colors of her dress. 


A dress of this style is recommended for women with a full figure.


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 86) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses.

 The rear panel (Fig. 86, a) 

From the waist line to delay down 1.5 cm and apply a cut line pattern to mid-pulley-block Darts. From the end of the pulley-block Darts to draw a straight line parallel to the line bottom middle rear cloth of the dress. 

 The front panel (Fig. 86 b)

From the depth of the neck through the middle of the shelves down to 4 cm delay From the received point to defer to the right 7 cm and left 1 cm Point 4 to connect the top of the neck continuing the line to the width of the cut sprout plus 1.5 cm, ie 7 - 8 cm From the point at right angles to a line drawn draw a straight equal to 8 - 10 cm, which is the width of the collar. From a point 8 - 10 left to postpone 1 cm and the extension collar on the back.

From the depths of the neck to the right to defer 7 - 8 cm from point to connect with point 1. The length of the shelves from the depths of the neck to the waist line to divide in half. From the received point to the right to defer a 2.5 cm length of the clasp. 

Issue unfastened portion of the collar, connecting all of the pending dots as shown in Fig. 86 b. Board to cut out with the valve. For the design of the valve segment from the depth of the neck to points 7 and 8 divided into three parts and the first point of division to connect with points 1, 7. 

 The line of entry into the pocket 

On the line side of the cut from the waist line to delay down 13 - 15 cm and the connecting point 13 - 15, with the second line of tackle Darts. Valve width at the line side of the slice 7 see Point 7 to connect with the second line tuck in the waist a smooth line. For the design of the valve from a point 7 on the side cut to defer to the right by 10 cm and from point 10 at right angles to a given line to draw a straight line to the intersection with the upper line. The resulting line is split in half and the points of division to defer to the right 3 see Draw valve.

To receive rasciesa bottom line traveling from the end of the tuck to cause the cutting line of the pattern to the bottom of the front cloth of the dress that is parallel to the middle of it. 

To move the shoulder Darts at the waist to connect the end of the shoulder tuck with the end of the pulley-block. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 87) 

 Back panel (Fig. 87, a, b). When cutting the pattern to put the middle of the fold of the fabric. On-line cut from waist to hem to give allowance for the half of the depth of unilateral folds (7 cm) plus 1 cm for the seam. The middle wedge of the rear cloth skirts (part 2) when cutting to put the fold of the fabric. The slice can also be given allowance for half the width of folds, unilateral (7 cm) plus 1 cm for the seam. 

 The front panel (Fig. 87, a). From the end of the pulley-block to the shoulder tuck pattern to cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck, enhanced on the waist line. From the bottom of the front cloth of the dress to the end of tackle Darts in the pattern to cut also, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tackel tuck close, due to what happens rascles dresses hem. 

Skirt to otkroite burlap pockets according to the shape of the lower side line of the part. The length of the burlap should be equal to the width of the valve (7 cm) plus 5 cm, i.e., 12 cm.

Cutting small parts and the seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 87, g, d, e, f. If the fabric is narrow, the side with the burlap pockets can be cut out separately. It is necessary to apply a line style pattern on front cloth from the middle of the openings, through a tuck in the waist (shaped line shown by the dotted line in Fig. 87, a). When such cutting is necessary to give the seam on shaped cutting line 1.5 - 2 cm 

Sewing 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front panels and the waist seam cushioning. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. At the lines on the back panel of the dress to make a cut until the middle of the pulley-block Darts, then from the end of the cut - nadechka to the waist line, i.e., 1.5 cm Pritchet wedge (part 2) undercut on the waist line. 

4. To prepare the strap. To make it so that the middle rests on the seam primaqiune and tack. Baste the tuck end back at the same time vetiva strap and wedge, i.e. slices of allowance for one-sided folds. Sew from the end of the tuck to the bottom line.

5. To pritchet burlap pockets to the top of podraza. On the mysik telecronaca valve handle obtenue loop. To oblachat one-piece valve podkralas the facing. To the bottom slice podraza tack transfer seam finishing cloth. Sew from the inside, at the same time grinding off the finishing of the fabric pocket facing the valve. 

6. On the front side of the valve and fabric finishing front side to attach the burlap pocket and pritchet seam width 0.5 cm, bend the burlap towards the inside, straightening and sweeping up the seam, releasing the roll from the side of the valve and finishing the fabric 0.1 - 0.2 cm

7. To baste the processed line of the pocket on the flank, combining snares. Baste and sew tackel tuck, at the same time grinding off the burlap pocket.

8. Sew the sections of the collar in the middle of the seam 1 cm wide seam stitching to resaturate. Baste shoulder seams of the back and shelves. To votati lower collar in Rostock. In the corners near the shoulder cuts to make the notch. Sew shoulder seams shelves and back, at the same time vracheva lower collar in Rostock. Setting a lower collar and flatlock shoulder seams to produce on the shelves and lower the collar. The stitching at the corners should be held at a distance of 0.2 cm from the ends of nasechek. Press the seams toward the bottom of the collar.

9. Baste side seams on the back from the armhole down, combining the control point, then sew on the shelves. 

10. Valve on Board processing as well as the pocket flaps (Fig. 87, d). On the front side of the upper collar (Fig. 87, g) on the snare tack machined valve side, and sew with the wrong side facing the valve with the upper collar.

11. Pricecat to cut the upper collar to the seam allowance of the fabric on the fold, stitching in stitching to resaturate. Top collar to attach to the bottom, folding inside out, tack, slightly propositiva upper collar (left side of collar tack from middle of collar to the hem, and right from the bottom to the middle of the collar, adjusting the fit of the upper collar). To pritchet top collar to bottom seam width 0.5 cm at the bottom. Remove the basting, trim the seam to resaturate.Collar to turn on the front side, sweep, releasing the roll through the grinding of the upper collar, and grinding the sides of the side of the shelves. Cut the edge of the upper collar on the sprout tuck inside and sew to the product over the seam primaqiune concealed stitches. Podborta along the line of the shoulder seams to sew by hand. The inner sections of podborov bend towards the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm, stitch at 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold, then attach manually using 6 - 8 cm

12. On the shelf to procure hinges, handle clasp seam allowance of the fabric on the fold. Lay one-way pleat on the front panel of the dress and lay the finishing line on the front side for the style. 

Further tailoring of the dress is similar to sewing the main dress.