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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Dress with scalloped wedge and pockets

Dress of dyed cotton fabric or artificial silk (sizes 48 - 50). Front panel with an undercut below the chest line. From podraza is flared wedge with seam in the middle and angled pockets with a single cut shoulder flaps, fastened on three buttons. Sleeve one-piece, short. The one-piece collar. Neck Cape. 

A dress of this style it is recommended that the full women, and proportionately built. For slim figure you can wear with lower-starched skirt. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 173)

Style developed on the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve. 

 The rear panel (Fig. 173, a). The height of the sprout at the shoulder cut right to postpone 6 see Point 6 to connect with the end of the pulley-block Darts. From the shoulder cut, by a line drawn down delay 8 - 9 cm and from point 6 to the right and to the depth of the tuck, i.e. 1 see Point 1 connected to point 8 - 9. The bottom line is to raskleit from the side of the slice to the right by 7, see the resulting point to connect with the hips and place the side cut. For rascles wedges to continue the line of tackle Darts to the intersection with the bottom line.

Rascles wedges to increase or decrease (optional and depending on the width of the fabric).

 The front panel (Fig. 173, b). From the top of the neck at the shoulder cut to the left to defer 1.5 cm and from the depth of the neck down - 5 see Point 5, 1.5 to connect, continuing the line by 8 cm (width of the cut of the Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm).

From the point 8 to the right at a right angle to a line drawn to postpone the 7 - 8 cm Neck to split in half and the dividing point to the right to defer 9 see, the resulting line is divided into three parts. The middle of the front from the depth of the neck to the waist line to divide also into three parts. The first point of division (from the neck) connecting with the upper point of division in the middle of the front, what will be the neck - Cape. Issue unfastened portion of the collar of the connecting points 9, 7 - 8.

Waist from center front to the left to defer 1.5 cm, i.e. part of the travelling Darts to move to the middle of the front. For rascles wedges on the bottom from center front to the right to continue the line for 5 - 7 cm. Obtained point to connect with point 1.5 and with the upper breaking point - the middle of the front. Traveling tuck to move to the side cut, what this cut at the waist to the right to defer 8 see the resulting point is the middle of tuck. From the point 8 to the right and to the left to lay the remaining half of the pulley-block of the tuck, i.e. at the 1 see Build tuck, equal in length to the first wireline tuck.

For podreza on the second line of tackle Darts defer up to 7 - 8 cm from the bottom of the dividing point on the inclined line the middle of the front up put 2 - 3 cm, the resulting point is connected to point 7 and 8. From the end of the shoulder tuck to cause the line to move the tuck to the undercut. From the first line of the tucks at the shoulder cut right to postpone 2 cm From point 2 down to draw a line parallel to tuck to the line of podraza (shown in phantom). For rascles wedges to continue the line of Darts down to the intersection with the bottom line. The bottom line is to raskleit from the side of the slice to the left for 7 - 10 seeReceived point to connect with the line of the hips.

 Line the entrance to the pocket. From the waist line on the second line of the tuck down to postpone 15 cm From the received point to the left at right angles to the lines to be postponed 4 to 5 cm and from point 4 to 5 up - 1 see Point 1 connected to point 15, then the point 1 - from pulley-block with a dart. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 174) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The rear panel (Fig. 174, a, b). In order not to disrupt the contour lines, or translate the cutter through the thin paper pattern flared wedges or cut in line rasciesa teeth, then squeeze the tissue. The middle of the pattern medium wedge (Fig. 174, a) to put to bend the fabric of common thread. The lateral wedge (Fig. 174, b) to find the same common thread the two parts. 

 Shelf with lateral wedge (Fig. 174,). Translate cutter patterns wedges as well as on the rear panel. For assemblies on the shelf (undercut) at the pattern applied to lines cut from the line of Pedraza to the shoulder dart and the shoulder cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tuck to close and take part of the pattern to the right with a distance between them of 3 to 4 cm slice of a wedge to give allowance for burlap at 10 - 15 cm longer than the entrance line to the pocket, i.e. from waist line down by 25 - 30 cm Width of the burlap at the bottom of a 10 - 15 cm Podkraj the top of the collar shown in the picture touches. 

 Medium wedge front cloth (Fig. 174, g) carve out together with pocket flap. The length of the pocket to divide into four parts, i.e. to put the location of the hinges (podkraj burlap shown in the picture touches). The length and width of the burlap from the entrance to the pocket is equal to the Hessian side of the wedge. To carve out two parts. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 174.
 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and the waist seam cushioning. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the average wedge backless with side gussets, folded inside out. Checkpoint combined. Resuturing the seam and then press towards the middle of the back. 

4. Baste and sew the average wedge front cloth, stitch resuturing. 

5. To handle the loops on the pocket flaps one or two obrazkami.

6. Handle flap pockets podkralas the facing, cut along with the burlap using a straight edge facing the front side to the front side of the valve. To pritchet podkraj from the waist to the notch at the bottom of the pocket, fold the facing towards the inside, releasing the roll from the side of the valve on 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometall and priotity. 

7. Sew the middle of the front bodice bridging stitch, seam resuturing. 

8. To assemble the Assembly at the bottom of the bodice rare double stitching.

9. On average, the wedge (part 4) the allowance given when cutting, curl the inside out, top cut to the waist line and below the entrance to the pocket for 2 - 3 cm and baste the bodice and skirt seam transferable (see the original Dress is cut with a draped figure podraza). Then sew from the back inner seam, simultaneously grinding off the burlap pocket. In the corners where it is impossible to stitch on the machine, sew from the inside manually. Seam piecing together to press towards mid front.

10. Sew lower collar in the middle. To make the notch in the corners for the width of the seam. Baste shoulder seams, collar votati in Rostock, then sew shoulder seams, collar vracheva at the same time in Rostock. Sew upper collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. To impose a facial storonu upper collar on the front side of the bottom, combining the middle and unfastened parts. Tack on the top collar, creating small influx of fabric in the corners of the collar. Sew lower collar. To make the notch in the corner.Remove the collar on the front side, releasing the roll from the top of the collar 0.1 - 0.2 cm to the neck, and the neck - from the shelves. The second section of the upper collar to bend in the direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm, stitch at 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold, priotity, Rostock collar to sew hand stitches for the seam primaqiune, according to the shelf - attach the program in several places.

11. Processing podkralas the armhole facing. 

12. Hem the bottom of the dress.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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