Dress , wool or wool blend plain fabric (sizes 46 - 52), cut at the waist line. Bodice fitting. The shelf with the barrels attached, the collar has two soft pleats. The back with a seam in the middle. 

The skirt is flared, in the middle of the back of the cloth one-way pleat. The front panel with slash pockets and escape valves. From pockets down are one-way pleats. Sleeve one-piece, three-quarter, narrowed down. The collar is sewn. 

Collar, side, flap trimmed with a wide, stitching silk threads to match the product.

A dress of this style is recommended for proportional stacked shapes. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 52) 

a Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with sleeve and gusset.

 The rear panel (Fig. 52, a). To apply a line cut of the bodice at the waist line. To obtain a flared skirt to apply a line cut from the end of the pulley-block darting to the bottom line. 

 The front panel (Fig. 52, b). Neck divided into three parts. To apply a line cut from the bottom of the dividing point of the neck to end of shoulder tuck. From the depth of the neckline through the middle down the front to postpone 22 cm From point 22 to the left to delay 9 see Connect point 9 to the middle of the front waist, as shown in Fig. 52 b. 

The side cut to the waist line to divide into three parts. Top breaking point to connect with point 9. The waist line is the cutting line of the bodice from the skirt. 

 The line of entry into the pocket. From waist line down the tuck postpone 6 cm, and from the point to the left 6 - 13 cm, and down to 4, see Points 4, 6 to connect the line to split in half and down to postpone 1 cm to Make the pocket a smooth line. 

 The width of the valve pocket. From points 4, 6 down to 5 cm delay, to lengthen the valve at the bottom line from the point 5 to the left by 1 cm and from point 5 to the right by 2.5 cm to Draw a bottom line valve, as shown in Fig. 52, b (7 item). 

To obtain the folds and rasciesa skirts from point 4 to the bottom to hold the cutting line parallel to the line of mid front panel. 

 Bow (Fig. 52). Length of bow 17 cm, width 5 cm on each side of the hem to remove 2 cm 

 of the Collar (Fig. 52, g). Collar length of 20 cm, It is equal to the line terminations at neckline and germ plus the length of the clasp 2.5 cm or posh + 2 = 20 Width cm 10 - 12 cm (unfolded). 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 53) 

 Back (Fig. 53, a). Back to carve out a prepared pattern. By the middle of the back to give allowance for the setting of the fastener of 2 cm To handle the bottom of the sleeves to carve out obtachku (podkraj piping shown by hachures). 

 3аднее cloth skirt (Fig. 53, b). By the middle of the pattern to give the allowance on one-way pleat 6 - 7 see the lines to cut pattern, traveling a tuck to close due to what happens rascles. Bottom line from the side cut to give allowance for rocklee 5 - 6 cm (optional). 

 Shelf (Fig. 53, V, g). For applying the pattern lines to cut. From neck to end of shoulder Darts to make the cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new dart in the neck. For processing valve facing away from the Darts, to add from the neck up 8 - 10 cm From a point 8 - 10 left to delay 4 to 5 cm, and in half again open tuck to make the incision to pull the bow length equal to the width of it, i.e. 3 - 4 cm 

For the treatment of upper edge parts 4 to otkroite obtachku common thread width 4 5 cm (Fig. 53, g), 

 the Front panel of the skirt (Fig. 53, d). For applying the pattern lines to cut. Then patterns translate the cutter or thin paper through the valve, and by the middle of the front cloth (item 5) to allow for one-way pleat 7 - 8 refer 

To the inner section (item 5) to give allowance for the burlap pocket and half width folds of a unilateral 6 - 7 cm podkraj burlap obmenivat on the fabric item 5, then flip the pattern on the left side and circle again line the entrance to the pocket. Burlap length 11 - 12 cm (optional).

The internal cut of the side panel (Fig. 53, e) front cloth skirts allow for half the width of the folds 6 - 7 cm, rascles hem - 4 cm, and side cut - 6 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 53.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the shelves, front and rear panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Sew the back down the middle to the zipper, baste and sew the Darts on the back and the sides of the shelves. 

4. Sweep in the neck on the shelf soft folds. To pull the bow in deep folds from the neck down to make the incision 3 to 4 cm, ie, the width of the bow. The slices of the loop to neaten.

5. To handle the upper section of a barrel (part 4) podkralas a facing width of 4 - 5 cm to Lay the finishing line, baste and Topstitch side on the shelf (place to lay after the first try, noting the location and widths). 

6. The sections of the clasp to turn over a facing of a thin fabric. Closure can be with buttons, buttons and hooks.

7. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams. The cut of the sleeves and side cut sew to the notch, metati and vacate gusset vracheva it on the shelf and the back one move, bringing the line in the ends of the undercuts on the front and back by 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge. For durability in a sock gusset is recommended to perestroit from the front side of the silk thread to match the product. For this, slices it to bend in the direction of the product, prometti the seam of primaqiune on the front side, then lay the line 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam vrachevanie gussets.

8. Sew the ends of the collar to the clasp on the back to turn on the front side, straighten seams, priotity. Fold the collar in half, wrong side inside, equalizing sections, and prometti on the fold and cut. Side inside unfastened portion of the collar is to pull iron for the best fit. To lay the finishing line on the collar. 

9. A soft fold at the neck to fasten the transverse stitching from the end of the buttonhole on the 2 3 see 

10. On the back panel of the skirt to sweep and sew-sided fold so that the seam, grinding it coincided with the seam on the bodice.

11. Processing obecnie loop on the crease on the front panel of the skirt one or two obrazkami. To build and zastrochit unilateral pleated from the waist line on 25 - 30 see 

12. Sew the remaining tackel a tuck on the skirt or to pick her up at the side seam.

13. To handle the lower section of the sleeve podkralas or lateral facing of a width of 4-5 cm and a length equal to the width of the bottom of the sleeves plus 2 cm for the seam. Sew the ends of otacek, resuturing seam, tack the facing face side to the front side of the bottom of the sleeves, equalizing sections, and pritchet (facing) seam width 0.5 - 0,7 cm Seam primaqiune to resaturate. The bend facing towards the inside of the sleeve, releasing the roll from the sleeve by 0.1 - 0.2 cm Pin roll slanted stitches, a second section of piping to hem the sleeve with hidden stitches.

The products thick fabric is the second section of piping to bend in the direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm, blaze line 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold of the piping, then attach to the sleeve in several places. Slightly priotity obtachku, and then remove the basting and to iron from the inside until it is tight on her.

14. To the top of the valve to otkroite strip, tack it from the inside out, lay the finishing line, and then fold both parts leaves face inward, obtusate on three sides along the upper and side sections, remove the valve on the front side, slanted stitches to secure the roll from the top by 0.1 - 0.2 cm and priotity. To attach the valve to the underside of the front side of the front cloth skirts, equalizing sections, pritchet seam width 0.7 cm seam primaqiune bend down.

15. The front panel of the skirt (item 5) and the lateral part 4 is folded face inward so that the upper line of fold pleats, details 5, coincided with the same line on the part 4. Detail 5 keep in expanded form, pritchet line top bend folds from the inside out at 30 - 35 cm (optional). Burlap pocket hem manually to the valve in the seam primaqiune it. 

16. Sew the pulley-block and tuck the burlap pocket, at the same time grinding off the fold.

17. Sew the side seams of the skirt, stitch resuturing, tack and pricecat the bodice to the skirt, combining shapes and lines the side seams of the bodice to the skirt, middle back, with middle of the rear cloth skirts and mid-shelves with the middle of the front cloth skirts. Hem hem, concealed stitches and sew on buttons.