50 style (see color picture in the middle) 

Testerone gown of plain fabric of type of crepe (sizes 46 - 54), one-piece, heavily flared. On the front of the dress wedge is inserted, the bodice at Cape draped wedge. Neckline - curly "boat". The rear panel of the three flare wedges. Sleeve one-piece, short.

A dress of this style is recommended for women of small stature. With highly developed thighs rascles dresses hem to do as little as possible. Tall, thin women fit this dress is not suitable, since tselnokrajnie wedges visually lengthen the figure. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 181) 

the Style developed by the pattern of tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve.

 The rear panel (Fig. 181, a). The width of the cutout at the shoulder Rostock slice right 9 - 10 cm Depth of the cut sprout in the middle of the back 1.5 cm plotting points to connect. Waist sause back 1 cm and the point 1 is connected with the depth of the cut of the Rostock, continuing this line to the bottom. The line of openings to divide in half. From the end of the pulley-block Darts on the skirt to hold straight on the hips and from the point of intersection in either direction on the line of hips to be postponed for 2 see breaking Point of the arm openings to connect the end of the pulley-block Darts and 2 points on the line of the hips, extending the line to the bottom. On the side cut to raskleit dress.To do this, from the point of intersection at the hip line to draw a straight line on the bottom, measure rascles inner side of the wedge and is equal to the length of the delay to the bottom side cut of the cloth back.

 The front panel (Fig. 181, b). At the shoulder slice from the top of the neck to the left to delay period equal to the width of the cut sprout, i.e. 9 - 10 cm, and the depth of the neck down 1 - 1.5 cm, plotting points to connect. From the neck down the middle of the front to the left to defer 1.5 cm, down 7 - 8 cm and the obtained point linking, as shown in Fig. 181 b. Point 7 - 8 down to delay 5 to 6 cm At the waist left, to postpone the width of the plastron, i.e., 7 - 7.5 cm Tackel tuck to move closer to the plastron, then the end of it to connect with point 5 - 6.From the end of the pulley-block darting at the hips to draw a straight line from the intersection point to the right and to the left to postpone 2 cm to Issue a plastron and a lateral portion of the front panels similar to the rear panel. For obtaining draping shoulder a tuck move in the middle of the front under the bib and apply cut lines from the top of the plastron to the armhole, as shown in Fig. 181 b.

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 182) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The rear panel (Fig. 182, a, b) be cut out of the pattern. The middle of the pattern medium wedge (Fig. 182, a) to put to bend the fabric the common thread and find one detail. For the side wedges (Fig. 182, b) to find the common thread the two parts. 

 The front panel (Fig. 182, C, d). To move the shoulder Darts to make the undercut from the middle of the front to the end of it, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck in the middle of the front for draping. To increase draping the pattern to cut on the plotted lines, not dorezaya to the armhole 0.5 cm, and push every part of her 5 cm fabric patterns to put to the equity of the thread passed through the middle of each wedge. For treatment of neck Rostock and neck to otkroite piping. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 182.
 

Tailoring 

1. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

2. Baste and sew the wedges back the cloth of the dress, detail 1, detail 2, bridging seam. 

3. To make a drape at the chest line front cloth of the part 4 (the fold of the pleat should be in the direction of the shoulder). 

4. Allowance for this when cutting by the upper shear wedge front cloth (item 3), to bend towards the inside, prometti, priotity, to impose on the lateral portion of the front panel, aligning the snare, tack iron seam, and sew from the inside. In the corners where it is impossible to stitch on the machine, sew by hand.

5. Baste and sew the shoulder seams. 

6. Treating neck podkralas the facing. To make the sprout facing face side to the front side of the back, equalizing sections, and tack. Podkayne the facing for the neckline to attach the front side to the front side of the front cloth of the dress and tack. Baste and sew the piping of the neck on the shoulder seams to resaturate, then pricecat one seam of the facing and neckline of Rostock. When participarii piping neckline deep notched neckline, double-needle stick similar to the processing of the neck strict Cape.

7. Processing podkralas the armhole facing. Tack piping, facing and folded the dress inside out, equalizing the slices. Sew piping on shoulder and side sections, the seams resaturate, then pricecat the facing to the armhole and also resuturing seams. Fold the facing towards the inside, releasing the roll from the side of the dress by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometti. The second section of piping to bend in the direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm and hem by hand, priotity armhole, remove the basting, and then priotity piping to the full fit to the armhole. 

8. Hem the bottom of the dress concealed stitches and ironed dress.