Dress of plain wool or a dense cotton fabric straight cut (sizes 44 - 54), type shirt, cut at the chest. The lower part of the dress stitched wide decorative stitching on the bodice. Through podraza on the shelf processed pockets. In the middle of the front cloth skirts it takes a closure and finishing line. The back is gathered at the undercut and a clasp on "lightning". Weed out the waist a wide elastic band. Sleeve one-piece, short, the lower part trimmed with fur. Collar - high stand with shaped Darts.

A dress of this style is recommended for tall and lean women. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 176)

Style razrabotan the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with sleeve and gusset.

 3аднее flag (Fig. 176, a). Draw a line from the notch the gusset to the bottom. Side cut from waist to podreza the gusset is split in half and the points of division to defer up to 1.5 cm. From the obtained point to draw a straight line to the intersection with the middle line of the back. A line is a line cut of the skirt from the back. To get the height tselnokrajnie stand, the height of the sprout defer up to 5 - 6 cm, the line of the middle of the back to continue to a level stand height, i.e., points 5 to 6, and plotting points to connect.From the point of intersection down to postpone 2 cm and draw a line rack, connect the dots 5 - 6, 2 and continuing the line from point 2 to the left 1 cm Point 1 to connect with the middle of the back.

 The front panel (figure 176, b). The height of the stand from the top of the neck 5 to 6 cm From the depth of the neck up to 6.5 cm. defer to Make the neck stand as shown in Fig. 176 b. To move the shoulder Darts in the neck to split in half, and the point of division to connect with the tuck end and undercut from the side of the slice. From the waist line in the middle of the front defer up to 18 - 20 cm, and from the received point to the right is 6.5 - 7 cm (distance between the pockets). Line the entrance to the pocket is equal to 8 - 10 cm Lateral slice from podreza the gusset to the waist line to divide in half, and from the points of division delay up to 1.5 cm.Point 1.5 to connect auxiliary from 8 - 10. The resulting line is split in half and down to postpone 1 see to Draw a smooth line cut line skirts from shelves, as shown in Fig. 176 b.

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 177) 

caused to the lines On the pattern to cut. 

 The backrest (Fig. 177, a). To carve out two parts on vykroiki. The seam to give the lower cut back 4 cm, in the middle of the back of 1.5 cm at the shoulder and bottom sections of sleeve 1.5 - 2 cm 

 3аднее cloth skirt (Fig. 177, b). The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread. On the top slice for processing to give an allowance of 3 to 4 cm, side cut 2 - 3 cm, set of the bottom 5 to 6 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 177 in). From the neckline stand in lines to make a cut by the end of the shoulder tuck, not dorezaya 0.5 cm, Half closed, whereby opening of the new dart in the neck. The rest of the shoulder Darts to move into a shaped cutting line skirt.

When cutting the middle of the pattern shelves to put to bend the fabric of common thread, on the bottom cut to give an allowance of 5 - 6 cm, at the same time leaving parts out of the burlap pocket, length 10 - 12 cm, on the remaining slices - stock shown in Fig. 177, V. To handle stand back and shelves to make podkraj wide shoulder cut 8 - 10 cm To the shelf to otkroite obtachku to handle the rack when tuck in the neck will be jotted. When stitching a tuck to shorten by 6 - 7 cm 

 Front panel skirt (Fig. 177, g). When cutting to the middle of the pattern of the skirt give allowance for time clasps 2.5 cm, and for the treatment of a fastener 5 to 6 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 177.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the shelves, the back, the front and rear panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam.

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew a notched tuck in the neck. 

4. Baste, and sew back through the middle, leaving nezastroennoe for uchitivaya castle "lightning" 10 - 12 cm Vacati "lightning". 

5. Baste and sew the shoulder seams, Posiva back on the shoulder.

6. To treat the neck podkralas the facing. Sew the ends of the piping sprouts and neck at the shoulder cut, stitch resuturing, tack the facing to the neck, putting the face inside. To equalize the slices to pritchet seam width 0.7 cm, resuturing seam, fold the facing towards the inside, releasing the roll from the side products by 0.1-0.2 cm, and promette. The lower section of piping to bend 0.7 - 1 cm, stitch at 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold, priotity. Attach the facing to the dress at the shoulder seams down the middle front and back.

7. Baste and sew the side seam of the bodice to podraza gussets. Baste and sew the bottom seam of the sleeve, Posiva cut sleeves backless line elbow to podraza gussets. To handle the seam, press in the direction of the shelves. 

8. To votate and vacate the gusset from the side of the bodice, bringing the line at the end of podraza by 0.2 - 0.3 cm Seam resaturate, then grinding the seam to bend in the direction of the sleeves, prometall and pave thread to match the dress finishing line on the front side at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam primaqiune. 

9. Handle loop on the right cloth skirt one or two obrazkami.

10. To process a fastener on the front panel of the skirt. Allowance for this when cutting along the line of approach of the clasp, bend towards the inside, the sections bend, stitch at 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. To lay the finishing line on the right panel width 1 - 1.5 cm from the fold. 

11. Baste and sew the side seam of the skirt. The seam stitching in the product from coarse fabrics to resaturate, and from thin - to press toward the front of the cloth.

12. Pave edge, or equity obtachku width of 0,7 - 1 cm and a length equal to the upper cut of the skirt. Edge to build from the inside out close to the snare (the whole edge must be positioned in the direction of slices) and pricecat. Allowance for this when cutting for machining the top of the cut, bend towards the inside, and prometti priotity. 

13. Apply the skirt to the bodice, aligning the snare, tack and pritchet finishing stitching on the width of the lines in the middle of the front cloth skirts.

14. For odergivaniya gum to pricecat the facing at the waist. For this purpose, the fitting to clarify waist line and fight thread. From the inside of the dress to attach the facing width of 5 - 6cm (ready 4 - 5 cm) so that the middle of the piping lay on the waist line, and tack. Sections of the piping to bend in the direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm, tack to the dress, to pritchet 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold of the piping. Below the line is not sharply separated from the front side of the dress, you need the Shuttle to insert silk thread to match the dress.

15. To handle the lower section of the sleeve facing transverse width of 5 - 6 cm to Attach the facing face side to the front side of the sleeve, tack, sew the ends of otacek, stitch resuturing, pricecat the facing and the seam stitching to resaturate, bend it toward the inside of the sleeve, releasing the roll from the sleeve by 0.1 - 0.2, see Second section of piping to bend 0.7 - 1 cm and hem to sleeve concealed stitches, slightly priotity, remove the basting and priotity until it is tight piping. 

16. Hem the bottom of the dress, to iron and to sew.