Dress of a light solid color or colored fabric (sizes 44 - 52), cut at the waist line with attached bodice. 


Front bodice with soft pleats at the V neck. 


Straight skirt, circle in the crease. 


This skirt can be zaplanirovany, or collect it in Assembly. 


Sleeve one-piece, short. 


Stand - up collar with single-button closure. 


Dress you can refresh the collar or scarf, prodanov it under the clasp. 


A dress of this style is recommended in proportion to the folded shape. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 146)


Style developed on the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve. 


 The backrest (Fig. 146, a). The height of the sprout rack defer upwards of 2 - 3 cm, the mid-line of the back to continue to the level height of the rack. Plotting points to connect, and from the point of intersection down to postpone 1 cm and from point 2 - 3 - 0,5 see to Make a stand, as shown in Fig. 146. 


 Shelf (Fig. 146, b) . Continue shoulder cut in the side of mid front on 1 cm, obtained from point up put 2 - 3 cm, middle shelf to the depth of the neck to continue to 2 cm, and from point 2 down to postpone 6 see the resulting cut is divided in half and from the dividing point to the right to defer 3 cm length of the clasp. To make the valve closure and the neck, as shown in Fig. 146 b.


The first line shoulder tuck divided into three parts and the lower breaking point to connect with point 6. On the second line of the tuck to postpone the cut, equal cut from the shoulder to the bottom of the dividing point, and from plotting points to make a line of cut parallel to the shoulder cut to the side of the slice. For moving half of the pulley-block darting to connect the end with the end of the shoulder tuck. 


The parts are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 147) 


 Back (see Fig. 146, a). The middle of the pattern to put at the bend in the fabric the common thread and find no change. 


 Shelf (Fig. 147). Lines for applying a pattern to cut from the middle shelf to the side of the cut and from the end of the shoulder tuck, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Upper part of the shoulder tuck from podraza close, and the rest to use for Assembly. To increase the half assemblies of tackle Darts to move into the undercut and the middle of the pattern to move away from the fold of tissue at 2 - 3 cm, while extending the shelf for waist line (Fig. 147).


To find Podkayne piping for processing of Rostock, neck and arm openings (shown by hachures). 


The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 147. 

 Cutting skirt (Fig. 148). For cutting skirts need the following measurements (in cm): 

Full waist circumference .......... 76 
the Full circumference of the hips ......... 104 


free fit to add 3 - 4 cm 20 - 30 cm in stock with the laying of the folds. 


For the skirt fabric required: three full width thigh circumference, since 2/3 of this material will go to the folds (104 + 4 = 108 cm - full-circumference of hips with the addition of free customized fit): 108 X 3 = 324 cm length - length skirt made plus 6 - 8 cm for the binder of the bottom and connecting the bodice to the skirt.


To determine the number of folds required measurements thigh circumference divided by the desired distance between folds. For example, the distance between pleats is 4 inches: 108 : 4 = 27 folds. 


To determine the depth of each fold must of the total width of the fabric to take away the removed measure the circumference of the hips along with the addition of free customized fit: 324 - 108 = 216 cm the Remaining width of the fabric divided by the number of folds: 216 : 27 = 8 cm (the depth of each fold). 


The distance between the folds at the bottom line to increase by 1 - 3 cm, depending on the style, ie straight or flared skirt.


The excess width of the skirt at the waist to pick up in pleats to the hips. 


 Note. Unilateral folds are folds, the folds are directed in the same direction. 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew tackle Darts at the back and the shelf. 

4. To gather an Assembly in the lower part of podreza or lay soft folds. Baste and sew undercut, retreating from the middle shelf to the right and to the left for 6 - 8 cm (a proper distribution of the folds or assemblies, to clarify the figure when fitting).

5. Baste shoulder seams. 

6. Handle on the right valve collar oblachnyy the loop after the first try. 

7. Treating the neck. The facing to attach to the Rostock inside out, tack and seam pricecat a width of 0.5 cm 

For the treatment of neck left and right shelves to make obtachki inside out and pritchet from the top line the middle shelves on the undercut 6 - 8 see On the shelf the rest of podraza for zipper handled separately podkralas the facing, folded it inside out, and pricecat. The ends of obcutek neck and podraza clasps to sew, the seams of the stitching to resaturate.

8. Sew a seam the shoulder seams and piping seams of the back and shelves, remove the basting, resuturing and straighten the seams. Sweep the edge of the stand, releasing the roll from the side products by 0.1 - 0.2, see Second section of piping to bend to the inside by 0.5 cm from the bend and attach to the bodice. 

9. Baste and sew the side seams of the bodice. 

10. Processing podkralas the armhole facing.

11. To prepare the skirt. Spacing the pleats, you need to ensure that the connection joints of panels were held on the inner crease of the folds. If the seams do not fall into the inner fold of the pleat you want to move it and the excess fabric from the seam to cut. Sew all the cloth fabric, except the last seam, sweep and hem the bottom, not Dashiva to the brim 15 cm Pleats to lay right to left on the plotted lines and to seal across the width of slanted stitches. Swept pleats priotity, remove the basting and completely removed from the upper and inner sides through a wet linen cloth.Sew the last seam and finish the sheathing of the bottom of the skirt.

12. To connect the bodice to the skirt bridging the seam. 

13. To iron and sew a button.