Style 52 (see color figure II)

Dress of wool, silk or cotton, plain-weave fabric either in the small picture, cut at the waist. On the front panel of the skirt is one-way pleat and Welt pockets, turning into a soft pleat. Back straight. One-piece collar with a soft pleat from shoulder attached to a shelf at shoulder button at the back collar with rounded ends. Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter, notched neckline, combined with the rounded ends of the collar on the back. This style can be performed in the dress a soft shape with tselnokrajnimi trehchetvertki or short sleeve.

The cut of this dress can be recommended to all women, especially for the fuller figure or shape with a short neck. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 185) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 The front panel (Fig. 185). To build telecronaca collar with a soft pleat depth of the tucks at the shoulder slice to split in half and the point of division to connect with the end of the shoulder tuck. The pattern of the back to make the shoulder cut to the shoulder cut shelves to the height of the germ coincided with the breaking point tuck. To trace a contour line pattern of the back and through the middle of it to postpone the width of the collar, i.e., 8 - 9 cm. Obtained point to connect a smooth line parallel to the neckline of Rostock with the top of the neck. The angle at point 8 - 9 split in half and draw a line 3 cm lengthTo round out the unfastened part of the collar on the back. From the depth of the neck down to lay 10 see point 10 the right to postpone 6 - 8 cm, obtained point to connect with the top neck and waist, as shown in Fig. 185.

From the point dividing the depth of the tuck to the shoulder openings of the cut must be equal to shoulder width of the back minus 1 cm, i.e., 12 see If the shoulder cut already, then extend it from the end of the openings to the desired width.

Traveling tuck to move it 2 cm closer to the side cut and from point 2 to postpone 2 cm, then draw a line parallel to the middle shelves and along the length equal to the length of the Darts on the skirt and shelf. A line is a line of mid-pulley-block Darts. From the middle tuck to postpone 2 cm and to build a tuck at the bodice. Depth of tackle Darts on the skirt is 6 cm, from the middle to put it at 3 cm in the other direction and make a tuck. As the depth of tackle Darts mostly dress 4 cm, and this cut of 6 cm, missing value, i.e.2 sm to add on side cut of the skirt.

The details of the patterns are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 186) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 Back to carve out the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. The middle of the back to put towards the fold of the fabric. The seam at the shoulder cut to give 1.5 - 2 cm, Rostock 0.5 cm, 1 cm armhole at the side cut 2 - 3 cm, waist - about 3 to 4 cm 

 3аднее cloth skirt to make the pattern the main dress. For one-sided folds of the middle of the pattern to move away from the fold of fabric on 6 - 8 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 186, a). Prepared to put the pattern on the fabric so that the middle shelf was the common thread. To handle otkroite collar to the upper collar at the bottom, the width of which in the middle of the shelves should be 5 cm at the shoulder cut of 4 cm 

 the Front panel of the skirt (Fig. 186, b). The middle of the pattern to move away from the fold of the fabric to the width of a unilateral folds (6 - 8cm).

Pocket from the first line of the tuck to the left to postpone 1 cm for the seam and draw a line from the entrance of the pocket, equal to 10 - 12 cm, parallel to the first line of the tuck and then cut the pocket. To handle pockets otkroite burlap the width of the waist 4 to 5 cm and a length equal to the entrance line to the pocket plus a 12 cm (optional). The width of the bottom of the burlap from the point 12 is equal to 12 - 14 cm to Carve out four parts (Fig. 186,). 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 186. 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the shelves, the back, the front and rear panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam.

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Sew the seam in the middle of the shelves, resaturate and then press towards the left of the shelves. 

4. Baste and sew the pulley-block darting at back, shelf and back panel of skirt. To press Darts towards the middle of the product. 

5. Baste and sew one-way pleat on the front and rear panels of the skirt from the inside of the waist line, not destrucive to the bottom of 30 - 35 cm (optional). At the end of the crease to perestroit cross stitching.

6. To handle the pocket. To do nadziejko at the end of the pocket. Then place a burlap pocket wrong side to the wrong side of the valance so that the burlap were 0.7 - 1 cm Tack and pritchet, serving part of the burlap pocket around the seam primaqiune, tack and pritchet 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. To line the entrance to the pocket to attach the second part of the burlap pocket wrong side to wrong side of skirt, equating sections. To tack, to put face on the front side of the skirt, the facing width of 4 cm and a length equal to the length of the pocket plus 2 cm, and pricecat.To turn obtachku on the burlap, the second section of piping to bend 0.5 - 0.7 cm, place a burlap pocket and pritchet 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold, by bending the skirt and lower portion of burlap. To cut the roughness of the burlap pocket, sew it inverted seam.

7. Baste and sew the side sections of the skirt, resuturing seam and then press toward the front of the cloth skirts. 

8. To nadsech in a corner of the cloth at the top of the shelves on the width of the seam allowance given in the cutting. 

9. To handle the collar. Fold the upper and lower collar face inward, equating slices, pritchet for unfastened parts on the bead width of 0.5 - 0.7 cm to Bend the upper collar towards the inside, releasing the chute to fold the collar from the shelf, and then from the top of the collar 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometall and priotity.

10. Baste and sew the shoulder seams of the shelves with the back, seam to resaturate, then press in the back side. 

11. To votati collar in Rostock (both layers) on top to make the facing, cut to shape cut of the Rostock, a width of 4 cm and a length equal to the width of the cut sprout plus 3 cm on the seam. Sew all four layers at a width of 0.7 cm, the seam resuturing, the bend facing towards the inside, the second section of piping to sew a dress manual stitches.

12. Sew a seam the sleeves, resuturing (dense tissue), or to press towards the front. To handle the lower section of the sleeve facing podkralas. To votate and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. 

13. To connect the bodice to the skirt, aligning the contoured lines and darted bodice and skirt. 

14. Hem the bottom of the dress, to iron, sew on buttons to the collar.