Cut 51 (see color figure VII) 

Dress of plain wool or silk cloth (sizes 46 - 52). Bodice cut at the waist with a notched neck, in the corners of the neck laid a soft tuck. In the middle of the front one-piece valve, the lower part of which is attached to the skirt on the 1 button, and the top is finished with soft pleat. The lower part of the bodice under the valve vstrechena pintucks. Straight skirt with inverted pleat in front. Traveling tuck laid curly soft crease. The sleeve can be short, one-piece or casting, three-quarter or long.

A dress of this style is recommended for women with slim waist. For women with short-waisted bodice, vystroeny pintucks can be extended to 5 - 6 cm slim shape skirt it is better to make bell bottoms with one-way pleat in the front. If desired, the skirt can be prioraty on the hips, depending on physique shape and tissue density. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 183) 

the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve.

 Shelf (Fig. 183). From the depth of the neck at the middle of the front down, put the 12 - 13 cm, and from the points obtained up to 7 cm From the point 7 at a right angle to the line of mid front left to postpone 3 cm and from point 3 to continue the line by 5 cm to Make the neck of the connecting points 5, 3, 12 and 13, as shown in Fig. 183. To move the shoulder Darts in the neck to cause the cutting line, connecting the width of the neck, i.e. point 5, with the end of the shoulder tuck a smooth line. 

 Valve. Waist from the middle shelf to defer half the width of the valve, i.e., 4 to 4.5 cm down from waist line to 4 - 5 cm to Decorate the lower part of the valve, connecting the resulting points. From the end of the pulley-block Darts to hold a construction line to the intersection with the middle shelves. The point of intersection denoted by letter a. From point a to the left to defer 7 cm and obtained point to connect a smooth line from point 4 to 4.5 on the waist line. 

 The front panel of the skirt. To obtain a figure Darts from the end of the pulley-block darting left to postpone 4 cm, the depth of her split in half and the resulting point to connect with the half tuck. The first and second line tuck to connect with point 4. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 184) 

 Back, and the rear panel of the skirt to cut out on the pattern without any changes. 

 Shelf (Fig. 184, a). On the put line from the top of the neck to do the undercut to the end of the shoulder tuck, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck for soft folds in the neck. To move the wireline tuck under the flap to make the undercut from the waist line in lines from the width of the valve, and then hooking the end of the Darts, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tackel tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck in the undercut of the valve. Excess tissue obtained by moving Darts, cut. For pockets from the middle of tackle Darts to give an allowance of 3.5 - 4 cm.To the bodice to make narrower, to the openings of the side cut to carve out a straight line, i.e. a notch at the waist not to. After zastrocky pockets to put the pattern on the fabric (jotted tucks), to clarify the contour lines of the pattern on the fabric and cut out a shelf. When cutting a tuck in the neck are not cut. Podkraj for treatment of the neck to find when will laid a soft tuck. To the bottom of the valve to make podkraj 0.5 cm valve and 2 cm above the waist line.

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 184, b). The middle of the pattern from the fold of the fabric to push the width inverted pleats (10 cm), to make narrower the depth of pleats at the hem by 1 - 1.5 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 184. 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the shelves, backs, skirts cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. To bystrocice pintucks on the shelf. To do the undercut from the waist line in the middle of the tuck on the 8 - 9 cm and from podraza to pave the first tuck, then the width of the foot or on the distance of 0,7 - 1 cm Sew the undercut inner seam zastraivaya the tuck long podraza 1 - 1.5 cm, and fixed to the end cross stitching. 

4. To build and zastrochit in the neck of the soft tuck on 1 - 1,5 cm Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams shelves and back. To handle the neck and the valve podkralas the facing.

5. To zastrochit inseam an inverted pleat in the middle front cloth skirts, not destrucive to the bottom of 30 - 35 cm (optional). 

6. To zastrochit darting at front and back skirt panels (front tuck to bend towards the side seam). On the front panel of the skirt instead of Darts lay soft folds of length 3 - 4 cm 

7. Baste and sew the side seams of the front and rear panels of the skirt. 

8. To connect the bodice to the skirt, combining the middle of the front cloth of the skirt with mid front and mid back cloth with the middle of the back. 

9. Processing podkralas the armhole facing.

10. Hem the bottom of the dress concealed stitches.