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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Dress with undercut on the left shelf and drape

Asymmetric dress solid thick fabric: Panama, crepe, fine wool (size 48 - 58), one-piece. On the left shelf instead of tackle Darts undercut, which finishes with a soft pleat. Right shelf with two soft pleats included in the undercut on the left shelf. In the skirt from podraza laid two soft and one-sided folds. Back telekrona. 

Sleeve one-piece, three-quarter. Collar - telekrona stand.

This kind of dress, you can perform the cutting at the waist with set-in long or short sleeve and one-piece with accordion pleats on the skirt from podraza (see color figure 1). 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 107) 

the Style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset. 

 The backrest (Fig. 107, a). To build tselnokrajnie rack. The height of the sprout up to postpone the height of the stand, i.e., 3 see a Line mid back to continue to the level of point 3, to connect these lines, from the intersection points down to postpone 1 cm and from point 3 to the right - 0.5 cm

To make the rack, as shown in Fig. 107. 

 The front panel (Fig. 107, b). Shoulder cut from the top of the neck continue to stand height, i.e. 3 cm, and upward at right angles to the obtained line - 1 cm to Make a stand, as shown in Fig. 107 b. Point 1 is connected with the end of the pulley-block Darts. A second line of tackle Darts from the end to the waist line to divide into three parts and the first point of division to connect with the end of the shoulder tuck, and the second shoulder cut. For registration podreza the left side of the waist line on the side cut down to postpone the 15 16 see the second line of the tucks from the waist line down to postpone the 7 8 seePoint 15 - 16, 7 - 8 connect by a straight line, continuing it from a point 7 - 8 left, 3 cm Point 3 to connect with the first line of tackle Darts for registration of podraza. Line podraza from point 3 to point 15 - 16 split in half, then one half divided into three parts and from the points of division to hold straight, parallel to the middle of the front, to the bottom line. For entry of the left shelves line podraza from point 3 to continue traveling to tuck the right of the cloth, to build a rack just like on the right panel, and the highest point of the rack to connect with the end of the second pulley-block Darts.For straight dresses hem to remove rascles, i.e. from the hip line to draw a straight line hem.

The parts are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.



Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 108) 

 Back panel to cut out the pattern dresses with tselnokrajnimi trehchetvertki sleeve and gusset. 

 The front panel (Fig. 108, a, b, C). In order not to disrupt the contours of the pattern, move the cutter or through a thin paper pattern of the left shelves (shown in dashed lines) and cut them out. To move the shoulder Darts to make the incision from the points of division on traveling tuck the end of the shoulder, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tuck to close, thereby opening up new soft folds. For receiving a second crease to cut the pattern shapes at the line, not dorezaya to the shoulder cut of 0.5 cm and take up to 10 - 12 see the Cut part of the pattern of the skirt to deflect to the right on 6 - 8 and 8 - 10 cm for soft folds.For one-sided folds to give an allowance of half the depth of the pleats on the right panel and side panel 3 (Fig. 108,) in 6 - 8 cm and the inseam by 1 5 cm.

In the left shelf (Fig. 108, b) shoulder tuck to move on waist line. To do the undercut from the end of the pulley-block darting to the end of the shoulder, close it, whereby the opening of the new dart (for deep soft folds). 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 108.
 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the dress. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. In the middle of the pulley-block tuck on the left shelf to make the cut on 15 - 16 cm for vrachevanie draping on the right shelf. 

4. Tack and pritchet to the front panel (item 1) item 3 side skirts (Fig. 108, C) the slices of the allowance for one-sided folds. 

Lay the drape on the right shelf and the skirt. 

5. Allowance for this when cutting, shaped to the undercut of the bottom of the left shelves to bend towards the inside and promette.

6. To put the right shelf in the undercut left, to sweep away the tuck from the inside out, apply a bent section of the left shelf on the skirt, combining the roof and then tack iron the seam. 

7. Baste shoulder and side seams shelves and back, lower sleeves and make a dress fitting. If the dress was wide at the waist, the excess fabric to take away from the draped right shelves to undercut the tuck on the left shelf to a good fit. Direction, place the draperies and the depth of wrinkles to clarify on the first fitting.

8. After trying to unpick the side seams. Sew shoulder seams, handle podkralas the neckline facing. Sew piping at the shoulder cut, stitch resuturing. Attach piping front side to the front side of the bodice, tack and pritchet, seam primaqiune to resaturate. To bend the piping towards the inside, releasing the roll from the side of the dress by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometti, priotity. The second section of piping to bend in the direction of the inside of 0.7 cm to stitch manually and attach 5 - 6 stitches in 5 6 see wireline Sew the tuck on the right panel.Sew a tuck of the left traveling shelves along with cut the right shelves, securing top transverse fold line.

9. Sew from the inside left ledge with a skirt, bringing the line up to the angle shaped line as possible to go machine. Area to sew hidden stitches by hand. 

10. Baste and sew the side seams and the bottom seam of the sleeve. 

11. To votate and vacate gusset, stachivaya her bodice.

12. To handle the lower section of the sleeve facing the transverse width of which 5 - 6, see the Facing to attach the facing to the front side of the sleeve, tack, sew the ends of the piping, stitch resuturing. Fold the facing towards the wrong side, straighten the seam, releasing the roll from the sleeve by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometti, the second section of piping to bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and sew hidden stitches manually. 

13. Hem the bottom to iron the dress, sew on buttons.
 



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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