Dress suit plain woolen fabric (sizes 52 - 54). 


Double-breasted jacket at the yoke. 


The back is carved, in raised seams sewn into the waistband. 


Sleeve double seam. 


Collar - telekrona stand. 


Proma skirt, inverted pleat in the middle of the back of the cloth. 


Dress this style can be recommended on all pieces. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 326) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. Sleeve double seam. 

 Back (Fig. 326, a). To build tselnokrajnie stand the height of the sprout to defer up 3 - 4 cm left and 0.5 cm, to connect the obtained point with the shoulder cut for a smooth line. A line mid back to continue to a level stand height, i.e., points 3 to 4, and the resulting point is connected to point of 0.5. From the point of intersection in the middle of the back to delay down 0.5 cm to Make the rack, as shown in Fig. 326. Jacket length 55 - 57 cm (optional). The width of the shoulder backless split into three parts. The second point of division to connect with the end of the pulley-block Darts.At the shoulder cut instead of landing to build a tuck, what to postpone to the right of the second point of division 1.5 - 2 cm Point of 1.5 - 2 are connected with a relief line.

 Belt. The width of the belt at the waist 4 cm From the waist line in the middle of the back up and down to lay half of the belt width, i.e. 2 cm belt Length equal to the distance from the middle of the back to the depths of tackle Darts. 

 Shelf (Fig. 326, b). For drawing shaped lines take a pattern expanded to the shoulder Darts on the right shelf with the transferred tuck in the waist. Waist and bottom opened increased tuck. To reduce the depth of it. For this to be postponed from the first line tuck up 13 - 14 cm and waist to the left 6 - 7 see Point 13 - 14, 6 - 7 splicing, pulley-block by making a tuck, as shown in Fig. 326, b, continuing the line to the bottom parallel to the first line of the tuck. The rest of the Darts to make the side cut.For this hem and waist to the left to delay periods equal to intervals from the second line of the tuck (the equal signs are marked by two lines).

To build tselnokrajnie continue to stand shoulder slice to the right by 3 to 4 cm and to delay up at a right angle 1,5 cm 1,5 Point to connect with a shoulder cut for a smooth line. To build a scoop neckline depth to put it down 10 cm and left 1 cm Point of 1.5, 1, 10 connect as shown in Fig. 326 b. 

 The width of the yoke. From the armhole at the shoulder cut to the left to delay period equal to 1/3 of the shoulder cut of the back. The length of the yoke from the depth of the neck 14 see Point 14 to connect with a wide yoke at the shoulder cut a smooth line. For entry of fasteners from the point 14 to the right to draw a line to the intersection with the line of movement of the shoulder tuck the left side and from the point of intersection down to postpone the 1.5 cm Point 14, 1.5 line to connect a smooth line. Line time shelves will be from a point of 1.5 and the first line moved tuck to the bottom. 

 Leaf. To postpone the width of the leaves from the first tackle and Darts to the left on the bottom 7 - 8 see Draw a leaf, connecting the beginning of a pulley-block tuck point 7 - 8 smooth line. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 327) 

caused By the lines of the pattern to be cut. 

 The backrest (Fig. 327, a). The middle of the pattern when cutting to put at the bend in the fabric the common thread. Side (detail 2) when cutting to put on the twice folded tissue in expanded form so that the direction of grain lines on the pattern coincided with a partial thread on the fabric. 

 Shelf (Fig. 327, b). To carve out a pattern on the two parts so that the middle shelf was the common thread. 

 Flirty (Fig. 327,). Before you cut out the yoke to the fabric to bystrocice pintucks, or to make the embossed line (a cord). The length of the strips of fabric for the yoke should be two times the length of the yoke (taking into account allowances for seams) and width equal to the width of the yoke 10 - 12 cm (for pockets) or plus 4 - 5 cm (for corded stitch). Striped fabric with pintucks vstrechennye fold in half, wrong side inside, combining line, baste or fasten with pins the sections. To impose the pattern of the yoke (item 3) so that the lobe thread patterns coincided with the corded stitching. 

 Leaf (Fig. 327,). To carve out the two parts after when the fabric vystroeny tucks likewise reveal the Basque. The lower part of the leaves to cut out of the main or lining fabric without wire lines. 

Tailoring of the jacket 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves, front and rear panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. To bystrocice on the fabric for the yoke and pintucks leaves, or to make a cord line and then cut out the yoke and leaves.

4. Handle loop on the right shelf of the jacket. Cut the edge of the shelves at the line terminations of the yoke to bend inside, prometall and priotity. 

5. On the yoke to put the shelves, combining the main lines of the pattern, tack transfer seam, then pricecat from the inside out. 

6. To prepare the belt to the back and attach it to the middle of the belt lay on the waist line. Put side panel (item 2) face on the front side of the backrest (item 1), combining the snare, sweep, and sew, stachivaya at the same time zone.

7. Baste and sew the shoulder seams, resuturing in the bend of the rack to nadsech, not dorezaya to the seam is 0.3 cm From the notch shoulder seam to press in the back side.

8. Sew the ends of obcutek for treatment stands at the shoulder cut (to take out podkraj to the shelf yoke so that the seam of the extensions were below the loop for 2 - 3 cm). Fold the facing with the product inside out, equating sections and aligning the shoulder seams, mid-back, with middle piping Rostock. Tack and pritchet, the seam grinding to resaturate, fold the facing in the direction of the product, releasing the roll from the side of the bodice 0.1 - 0 2 see the Second section of piping to stitch on the machine and attach to the bodice by hand.

9. Fold the top and bottom of the leaves facing inwards, sew for unfastened parts, seam resuturing, to twist it on the front side, releasing the roll from the top of the leaves, 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometti, priotity, remove the basting, and then priotity until it is tight. 

10. To put the leaf lower part on the shelf so that the lower edge coincided with the silky hem of the jacket and tack. Bend the right and left shelves on fold tuck (folding inside out), sew the Darts, at the same time vracheva leaves.

11. To handle the double seam of the sleeve. Pull the front section of the upper halves of the sleeves, and tack to the bottom, sew, stitch resuturing. At the elbow the top half slightly to plant or make a tuck. Baste sleeve, holding on the table, first from bottom to elbow, then from the armhole to the elbow. Sew elbow seam, resuturing. To handle the bottom of the sleeves podkralas the facing. To votate the sleeve in the armhole, cotuit fit in the top part of the sleeves and vacate on the sleeve. 

12. Hem bottom of jacket concealed stitches, to iron and to sew. 

The layout pattern of the skirt on the fabric (Fig. 328)

To find a skirt with inverted pleat in front or back of the basic pattern drawing of a skirt.

When the width of the fabric 130 cm folded it in half, face inwards. To bend the fabric to put the middle of the front cloth skirts, then put the pattern back panels, aligning the side sections and the hips. Note the remnant tissue on the creases and remove the pattern. The seam was under closure, fabric to bend, the lower part of it should be towards the top half of the width of the counter crease plus 1cm for the seam. Width inverted pleats can be from 16 to 24 cm, in this example, 20 cm (20 : 2 + 1 = 11).

From the top of the fabric (from the edge) the right to delay 1/4 of the entire width of the counter crease plus 1cm for the seam (20 : 4 + 1 = 6). After that, the fold of the fabric to make the middle of the front cloth pattern, then the pattern of the cloth back, aligning the hips and the side sections.

Inverted pleat can be laid in a straight line or extended to 2 - 3 cm 

Obelit patterns, to give a seam and hem the bottom, as shown in Fig. 328. 

Sewing the skirt 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the cushioning seam.

2. To lay a snare on the main lines of the pattern. Baste and sew a seam in the inner fold of the pleats, i.e., edges. 

3. Baste and sew an inverted pleat at the middle of the back of the cloth, leaving nezastroennoe from waist line for processing fasteners 14 - 15, see 

4. Baste and sew tackle Darts on the front and rear panels of the skirt, resuturing.

5. Process buckle under the inverted pleat. To the bottom of the clasp tack and pritchet equity obtachku, putting them face inward, a length equal to the length of your clasp plus 2 - 3 cm, and the width of that facing was to crease the folds. Fold the facing towards the inside, okantovany cut. The second and lower section of piping to bend and sew to the skirt concealed stitches.

From the inside to the top of the clasp to fold the pleats pave edge, or equity strip of fabric the length of degrees is equal to the length of the fastener plus 1.5 - 2 cm, attach it crosswise stitches (edge protects the edge of the zipper from stretching). Turn over the cut with a facing width of 2 - 3 cm, then lay the line on the front side of the skirt in the seam primaqiune piping. Sew the hooks to the edge, to pierce heads the main fabric and bring the noses of the hooks on the front side. Hem banded top part of the clasp to the skirt concealed stitches. At the end of the fastener to secure the cross stitching.

6. Handle traveling cut grosgrain braid or facing. Grosgrain braid to sew by hand to the facing. 

7. Hem the bottom of the skirt, to iron.