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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Dress yoke is trimmed with corded stitching

Dress of plain wool or heavy silk fabric (sizes 44 - 48). The front panel of the dress at the yoke, ending with a valve, beneath which passes the strap to the hips. Under the bar from the yoke laid paper stitching or tucks. Below the hip line, in combination with the upper part of the dress, the skirt also vstrechena corded stitching or tucks. 


The position of the valves on the front panel can be asymmetric. Back telekrona one-way pleat in the middle. 


Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter, cuffed. 


Collar - sew front.


A dress of this style can be recommended for women with underdeveloped Breasts. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 77) 


the Style developed by drawing the main pattern of the dress. 


 The front panel (Fig. 77, a, b). On the shelf (Fig. 77, a) half of the shoulder Darts to move to the armhole under carved line yoke, and the second - on the line side of the slice under the last row. To do this, apply the cutting line by the end of the shoulder Darts from the armhole and side cut.


From the depth of the neck at the middle of the shelf down to postpone 15 cm From point 15 to draw a line to the intersection with the line of openings (Fig. 77, b). On the put line from point 15 to the left to defer 8 cm and from point 8 - the width of the valve, i.e. 5 cm From point 8 down to delay the valve length (5 cm). Point 5 to connect. The resulting line is split in half and the dividing point down to postpone 2 cm to Make the Cape of the valve. The width of the recoil line from the point 15 in the middle of the shelves are 9 cm From point 9 to draw a line, parallel to the upper line, to the intersection with the side cut.From point 9 in the middle of the shelf down to delay of 20 cm From this point draw a line to the intersection with the side cut. The width of the recoil line from the point 20 down 9 see also draw a line parallel to the top line.


On the put line to the left to defer 9 cm, then from point 9 - the width of the valve (5 cm). Point 9: 5 for the skirt to connect the points 5, 5 on the shelf. Valve length on the skirt is equal to 5, see these lines connect, and then split in half and the dividing point down to design the Cape to postpone 2 cm to Make the toe strap. Strap connecting the flaps on the skirt and the yoke, passes through the points 8, the yoke 5 to the points 5, 2, 5 on the skirt. 


 Collar (see Fig. 78, d). To construct a rectangle, whose width should equal the width of the collar in expanded form, i.e. 8 cm, and the length - measure of the semicircle of the neck, i.e. 18 cm (width of collar ready 3.5 - 4 cm). 


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the common thread 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 78) 


 3аднее cloth. When cutting the pattern backless dresses the main push of the fold of the fabric on one-way pleat, i.e. 6 - 7 cm 


 Front panel(Fig. 78, a, b). For applying the pattern lines to cut. Half of the shoulder Darts to move to the armhole under the yoke (Fig. 78, a), and the balance of the side cut. For corded stitching or pockets to the upper cut parts of the front panels (Fig. 78, b) add 5 see First zastrochit pintucks, or to make a cord line and then cut armhole. At the bottom of the bodice to add 6 cm for a string trimmer line. 


 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 78,). To handle valve on the front panel of the skirt to otkroite obtachku (shown by hachures). 


 Pattern strap (Fig. 78, g) to move the cutter or to measure the length and width of the straps and equity carve out a strip of cloth. The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread (part 4). 


 The collar (Fig. 78, d) to find by a transverse filament. 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the dress and the waistline seam cushioning. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the Darts on the back panel, zastrochit one-way pleat, securing it in the end cross stitching, priotity.

4. To zastrochit pintucks, or to make a cord line on parts 2 and 3. Sew a tuck in the side, positioning it under the last line. Draw armhole. Baste and sew the pulley-block tuck on the front panel and to press them to the middle of the front.

5. Processing obecnie loop on the valve yoke and placket. To pritchet Podkayne obtachku to tselnokrajnimi valve yoke, the width of the piping should be narrower than the width of the valve by 0.5 cm, obtachivaya valve and at the same time the processing parts. To make the notch in the corners, trim off the excess fabric at the capes of the valve so as not to create the thickness of it, to turn on the front side, straightening the seam, priotity, to sweep the loop to neaten the cut obtachki valve. 

6. Tack iron-stitch the yoke to the bodice, pritchet.

7. Handle valve on the skirt (part 3) podkralas the facing, processing simultaneously the corners. The upper section of the skirt to bend towards the inside in the width of the seam allowance given in the cutting, tack iron seam to the bodice, pritchet, by bending the valve in the side skirts, and priotity. 

8. Handle bar (part 4), folding the upper and lower parts face inward, obtusate from both sides, leaving nezastroennoe 4 - 5 cm, turn on the front side, sweep out the loop and priotity. To fix the bar under the flap of hand stitches to sew on buttons.

9. Baste and sew the shoulder seams shelves and back, seam to resaturate. 

10. To handle cut in the middle front tack Podkayne obtachku width of 10 - 12 cm and a length equal to the length of the incision plus 5 - 6 cm Pritchet facing the starting line from the neck. To rotate the product without removing the needle, at the end of the section to do two injections and continue stitching. Then make nadziejko, not dorezaya to the seam 0.3 cm, the bend facing towards the inside, sweep out, priotity. Cut piping to sew on the machine and attach to the columns.

11. The collar is folded at the fold lines face inward, sew the ends, starting from the fold, not reaching the slices is 0.5 cm, pin at the end of the line, turn, seam priotity. To votati rack in the neck, applying the front side top of the strut to the front side of the neck, pritchet, the second cut of the hem over the seam primaqiune concealed stitches. 

12. Baste and sew the side seams, the seam grinding to resaturate. Sections of the side seams to sew on the machine or hand stitches to neaten. 

13. To votate and vacate harvested the sleeve in the armhole. 

14. Hem the bottom of the dress and ironed.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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