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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Ensemble of dresses and Figaro with the undercut shoulder and soft pleats at the end of podraza

Dress of plain or colored fabric (sizes 46 - 52), cut at the waist, with a shaped yoke and soft pleats at the neckline. 


The back is attached. 


The skirt flared out of the five wedges with a flounce at the sides and rear panel. 


Short sleeve one-piece. 


Figaro (Fig. 272, a) can be made from the main fabric or plain, matching with the dress. 


Sleeve one-piece, three-quarter. 


Collar - telekrona front with small flaps. 


Drawing style lines on a dress pattern (Fig. 273) 


the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve.


 The rear panel (Fig. 273, a). The width and depth of the germ to increase by 3 - 4 cm From the neck to postpone the width of the yoke, i.e. 5 cm cutting Line of the back runs along the waist line. 


For rascles hem from the right side of the cut to add 7 cm to Make the side cut. 

On the skirt to inflict a cut line of the shuttlecock. To do this, cut the side skirt from the waist to the hem is divided into three parts, and the middle of the back of the cloth into two. Plotting points to connect with a straight line and divide it in half. From the point of division is down to 3.5 cm delay followed by a period of 3,5 to connect with the obtained points of a smooth line.

For rascles wedges line of tackle Darts continue to cut lines of a shuttlecock. Along the flounce to apply cut lines of the pattern, as shown in Fig. 273. Across the shuttlecock to cause the control line (CL). 

 Shelf (Fig. 273, b). Shoulder tuck to move on the waist line, and then modified the pattern to put shelves shaped line. The width and depth of the neck to increase by 3 - 4 cm From point 3 to 4 in the middle of the shelf to the left to postpone 2 cm, and 8 cm down the resulting points to connect the curved line, as shown in Fig. 273, b. From the decorated neck at the shoulder cut to the left to defer the strap width (5 cm) and draw a second line parallel to the first strap. To get the Assembly out from under the strap from the depths of the openings to apply a line of cut parallel to the shoulder cut. 

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 273, in). For rascles bottom line from the side cut to the left to add 8 cm and place the side cut. From the end of the pulley-block Darts to defer to the right and to the left by 1 cm and depth of tackle Darts to connect with points 1, continuing the line to the bottom. 

Held the line side of the wedge to split in half and the side is cut into three parts. Plotting points to connect with a straight line and divide it in half. From the point of division is down to 3.5 cm delay followed by a period of 3,5 to connect with the obtained points of a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 273, V.

Along the flounce to apply cut lines of the pattern. Across the shuttlecock to cause the control line (CL). Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the dress (Fig. 274) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The backrest (Fig. 274, a, b). The middle of the yoke of the backrest (Fig. 274, a) to put to bend the fabric and cut out two pieces. The lower yoke can be cut out of lining fabric. 

The middle of the back (Fig. 274, b) to put to bend the fabric of common thread. 

 3аднее cloth skirt (Fig. 274, C) may consist of three wedges. The pattern to transfer it from the cutter or cut teeth. For the whole of the cloth with the Assembly at the waist pattern is cut from the end of the pulley-block Darts (shown in phantom) and push for 8 - 15 cm (optional). The middle dress patterns skirt to put to bend the fabric or to a trimming edge. 

 Shuttlecock to the back panel of a skirt (Fig. 274, d). The pattern for applying lines to cut and push in the fabric at intervals of 10 - 12 cm, combining the control line. The width of the flounce of one and a half times wider than the line terminations to the skirt. The flounce can be pleated or lay to zaplanirovany. 

 Shelf (Fig. 274, d). Lines for applying a pattern to cut from the neck to the armhole and to the end of tackle Darts, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tackel tuck to close, leaving her with a depth of 3 to 4 cm To increase the assemblies on the second cut lines to push the pattern towards the side of the cut at 2 - 4 cm 

 Flirty shelves (Fig. 274, e). To cut out on the pattern for the right shelves for two parts and for the left two parts with the addition to the middle of the shelves from the depth of the cut 2 cm length of the clasp. 

 Medium wedge to the front panel of the skirt (Fig. 274, W). When cutting the middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric.

 Lateral wedge to the front panel (Fig. 274, h). In the middle of the pattern to be cut and push for a 7 - 10 cm for assemblies.

Flounce to the front panel to carve out similar to a shuttlecock to the back panel. 

To handle bottom line of the side and rear parts of the skirt to make piping with a width of 4 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 274.
 


Sewing the dress 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, the front and rear panels of the skirt. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew tackel tuck bodice. 

4. On the shelf lay soft folds on the neck. 

5. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams of bodice. 

6. Baste and sew the shoulder seams of the upper yoke, back and shelves. 

7. Cut the edge of the top yoke to bend to the inside and tack iron seam on the front and the back, aligning the fold of the Basque with the snare, then sew from the inside.

8. Fold the top yoke and the bottom face inward and sew the neckline and the edge of the fasteners, the second edge of the lower yoke to hem with hidden stitches for the seam primaqiune the top yoke. 

9. To handle the bottom of the sleeves podkralas or oblique facing. 

10. To combine the middle-right shelf left. 

11. Sew the side seams of the skirt back and front panels and handle bottom podkralas a facing width of 4 - 5 cm.

12. Sew the side seams of the flounce front and rear panels, to collect an Assembly or lay the pleats, baste and Topstitch finishing line wide (3 - 4cm) rear and side skirts flounce. 

13. To connect the bridging seam wedge front cloth with the skirt gather at the waist Assembly. To connect the bodice to the skirt bridging the seam.

14. Hem the bottom of the dress, to iron and to sew. 

Drawing style lines on the Figaro pattern (Fig. 275) 

the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with sleeve and gusset. 

 Shelf (Fig. 275). From the depth of the neck down to postpone 6 cm Obtained point to connect with the top of the neck by a straight line, continuing it over the top of the neck 8 cm, i.e. the width of the cut of the Rostock plus 1 cm From the point at right angles to a line drawn to postpone the width of the collar is 4 cm From the top of the neck to the right to defer 10 cm and the resulting point is connected to point 4. From point 6 in the middle of the front down to postpone 4 cm from the waist line up the first line of the tuck - 5 see Issue unfastened portion of the collar and the bottom of Figaro, combining all of the pending dots as shown in Fig. 275.

For registration polyoxide at the shoulder slice to postpone the shoulder width and put the control points. From the top of the neck down to postpone 12 see Point 12 to connect the control point of the shoulder a smooth line. The resulting section line is divided into three parts and the first point of division to connect with the end of the side tuck. To move the wireline tucks into the undercut of the shoulder point 12 to connect with the end of the pulley-block Darts. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut Figaro (Fig. 276) 

Back to carve out the pattern unchanged, with a seam or without a seam in the middle. To line the bottom to allow for the processing of 6 cm at the shoulder cut of 2 cm, at 1 cm sprout 

 Shelf (Fig. 276). For applying the pattern lines to cut. Traveling side and tuck the bodice to close, thereby opening up new tuck in undercut from the shoulder cut (polyoxide). To otkroite the collar (shaded in the figure). Podkraj width at the shoulder cut of 3 cm, bottom 6 cm 

Allowance for seams is shown in Fig. 276. 

Tailoring of Figaro 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. Baste and sew the Darts on the back. 

4. To lay soft folds at the ends of podraza of polyoxide. 

5. Sew a line of podraza internal bridging seam. 

6. Baste shoulder seams of the back and shelves, combining control points and Posiva shoulder back and back sleeves. 

7. Baste and sew lower collar seam to resaturate. The middle of the collar pin to the middle of Rostock. To votati collar in Rostock, sew shoulder seams, starting from the bottom of the sleeves, collar vracheva at the same time in Rostock. Shoulder seams to press in the back side or resuturing if the fabric is thick. The seam of the collar to press in the direction of the collar.

8. Baste and stitch lower sleeve seams and side seams of the back and shelves to the next checkpoint. To votate and vacate gusset, aligning the reference point. Sew on the back or the shelf one. In the end undercuts of the back and shelves line nullify (0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge). For durability it is recommended to wear perestroit the gusset to the front side of the silk thread to match the product. Sections of the gusset fold in the side of the product, priotity, and then to stitch the item, departing at 0.1 cm from the seam vrachevanie gussets. 

 Note. In tselnokrajnimi bodice with long sleeves and a gusset to the first fitting to ultivate the gusset is not required. If the bodice is narrowed or wide, in the side seam it is possible to release the reserve or to pick up more in the seam. The width of the gussets may increase or decrease.

9. To handle the collar. Sew upper collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. To connect unfastened the lower part of the collar from the top. Sweep along the upper collar, Posiva in the corners, then pristroit, the seam grinding to resaturate, remove the collar on the front side, straightening the seam, releasing the roll from the top of the collar 0.1 - 0.2 cm before the end of the lapel, and then from the shelves, priotity. Lower section of the upper collar bend on the wrong side at 0.5 cm and hem to sprout manually over the seam primaqiune the bottom of the collar.The rest of the cut top of the collar to bend to the inside by 0.5 cm and stitch on the machine, then attach on the side in several places, and the hem to hem with hidden stitches.

10. Cut the edge of the back at the waist line can handle due to the extra thickness of the fabric, the when cutting, or separately cut the facing. While facing backless side cut sew otkroem with side shelves and hem with hidden stitches.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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