99 style (see color picture XV) 

, Made from solid, multicolored or plaid fabric (sizes 46 - 58) on the lining to match the blouse, straight casual. Long sleeve one-piece. Telekrona stand collar, Welt Pocket with leaflets. 

Blouse fitting, worn over the skirt. Skirt straight, narrow one-way pleat in the back. 

Short coat this style is recommended for women of high growth. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern and cutting (Fig. 347) 

the Style developed by the pattern summer coat with tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset into the sleeve. 

 3аднее flag (Fig. 347, a). From the depth of the cut sprout down to postpone the length of the short coats, i.e., 90 cm (optional), and place the underline. The height of the sprout defer up to 4 - 6 cm mid-Line of the back to continue up to the level of stand height, i.e. 4 - 6 cm Obtained point to connect, and from the point of intersection down to catch 0.5 cm to Make the rack, as shown in Fig. 347. To build a tuck at the shoulder cut. To do this, the width of the sprout to the right to defer 4 cm, and then tuck a depth of 2 cm From point 4 down to postpone 10 cm.Points 4, 10, 2 connect, to make a tuck (tuck in the back when telekrona the sleeve gives a good fit, especially for shapes with high or stooped shoulders).

When cutting the middle of the pattern of the back to put towards the fold of the fabric at common thread. To otkroite lined with silk or cotton fabric the pattern, then otkroite obtachku to handle the rack.

 The front panel (Fig. 347, b). The length of the shelf equals the back side cut. From the top of the neck to the right shoulder to continue the cut at 2 cm and at right angles to a line drawn to defer up stand height (4 - 6cm). Point 4 to 6 to connect with the top of the neck smooth line. For entry of fasteners from the bottom of your neck to the right to defer 4 cm the Height of stand to connect with the setting of the shelves, ie point 4, a smooth line and from point 4 draw a line to the bottom parallel to the middle of the front. Direction tuck the end of it, according to the finishing line (a style), changede, from the tuck end to defer 2.5 cm to the right and connect right and left tuck with the received point. For the leaves of my pocket from the end of the initial shoulder tuck to hold the line down, continuing her waist line to 8 - 9 cm. From the received point to defer down the width of the leaves (7 cm). From points 8 to 9 and 7 to hold the line up to the side of the slice (width of leaves from size to size increases or decreases by 0.3 cm). When cutting the pattern to put it so the middle of it was the common thread.To otkroite podbot, whose width at the shoulder cut 3 to 4 cm, and the bottom line from the middle shelves 4 - 5 cm to cut out the lining pattern on the shelves, so she came over podkraj side for about 3 to 4 cm

 Cuff (Fig. 347,). To build a rectangle with a length of 40 cm, a width of 10 - 12 cm Length cuff-split in half, from the point of division up to postpone 2 cm to Draw a line terminations a smooth line and unfastened the cuff portion parallel to the line terminations. 

 When cutting the cuff (Fig. 347, d) be cut out of the pattern for equity or transverse threads of the two parts of the main fabric and the two parts of lining to match the product. The gasket to carve out narrower and shorter than the cuff 2 cm 

 Gusset (Fig. 347, d) to find so that means it was the common thread. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 347.
 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the Darts on the back and the shelf, cotuit. 

4. For the finishing stitches to tack from the inside strip of interlining fabrics, of a width of 6 - 7 cm and a length equal to the length of the finishing line (the first line goes along the lines of Darts). Pave five lines of silk thread to match the product with a distance between them of 1 cm.

5. Pull the iron front, half sleeve, from shoulder width. The fabric it is necessary to moisturize. Brace sleeves made to fit it in the crook of the elbow. 

6. Prepare side strip (see next feature). Tack it to the shelf and put it on the edge. 

7. In the back, except for tucks, shoulder cut slightly to plant. Baste shoulder seams. To make nadziejko in the rack.

8. Baste side seams. In the gusset, a part of the lower half of sleeves and in the back and the shelf, to put the breakpoints and when matiwane gussets, they should be combined. In the elbow seam of the rear halves of the sleeve instead of landing to make a tuck. The first fitting should be covered or on the fitting to establish its location and depth. To votate the gusset into the sleeve.

9. The fitting also to pay attention to the position of the shoulder seam. If the seam looks to the back, you need to rip it and percolate, releasing the stock in the back and the front seam to pick up. If the sleeve is wide, stab in width in the lower half of the gusset. At the fitting to make the value of the counter. To identify loops, pockets, sleeve length and length of the product. 

10. Processing obecnie loop on the right shelf. 

11. Slip stitch to the finishing line. Handle pocket with leaflets. 

12. Sew the side seams starting from the armhole. The seam resuturing. 

13. Vacate to the gusset member into the sleeve. Seam gusset to resaturate.

14. Sew shoulder seam, starting from the rack at the notch line to be reduced by 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the nous. When stitching the shoulder seam of the sleeve to gently pull to get a good fit. The seam resuturing. 

15. Sew podkraj stand back and shelves at shoulder seams, stitch resuturing, tack, jackets, pritchet, stitch resuturing. Bend inside out, straighten the seam, releasing the roll from the side of the product by 0.2 - 0.3 cm, priotity. Attach padbolt to the side strip. 

16. Hem hem short coat "goats", priotity. 

17. Hem loops. Sew on buttons.

18. Sew lining in the same sequence as the top, to iron. To dress the mannequin or figure the wrong side up. Wear short coat, pin or tack the upper part, the lower part of the tack on the table. On the sides to sew hand stitches in Rostock to sew on a hanger.

19. Tack the interlining fabric to the cuff to give a hardness in the line. To lay the finishing line at the top of the cuff. Sew ends of cuffs, seam resuturing. Bend the upper and the lower sections of the cuff, sew cross stitches priotity. To sew the cuff lining cloth. Tack the cuff below the sleeve length of 1.5 - 2 cm and sew hand stitches.