Blouse, plaid or plain fabric. 


Back-fitting soft forms, a shelf of the main bodice, turn-down collar with sides. 


The sleeve on the cuff. 


One-piece skirt with two pleats in front. 


This suit comfortable to work, study, tourism. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 214) 


a Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses, bodice with tselnokrajnimi sleeve and the undercut in the armhole, and the pattern of the main sleeve. 


 The back sleeve (Fig. 214, a). For cutting blouse, you must prepare the pattern backless bodice with tselnokrajnimi sleeve and the undercut in the armhole, and for shelves the shelves of the main pattern drawing and half sleeves (front part). Combined blouse, it is recommended to sew cheap fabrics. The back can be cut in the transverse direction yarn, i.e., to fold the material in half in the transverse direction, or equity, put the pattern to the fold of the fabric, pin it with pins. The length of the back from waist line + 15 - 16 cm and extend at the hip line 3 cm 


From the height Rostock to note the width of the shoulder (12 cm) and place a control point. To the shoulder cut of the back of the capture point and height of the sprout to add 2 cm, and the length of the sleeve up to defer 5 cm to Make half a pattern front of the sleeve to the shoulder cut of the back so that the highest point of the sleeve touched the control points, i.e., shoulder width, and point 5. If you wish to receive the sleeve wider at the bottom to add with the one and the other side for 5 - 7 cm sleeve Length 50 cm 


 Shelf (Fig. 214, b). At the shoulder cut to leave 2 cm at the seams. From waist line to give you a raise equal to the length of the back, i.e. 15 - 16 cm For the length of the clasp to the middle of the shelves to add 3 cm If the width of the fabric, at the same time to give allowance for processing fasteners of calculation: width length clasp plus the width of the neck plus 2 - 3 cm at the shoulder cut. Cut the side shelves to the depth of the arm openings and hem allow for 2 cm, then add 2 cm for seams.The end of the notch in the back is 2 cm below the line of openings, therefore, the reference point On the shelf to put on 2cm below the armhole. When smachivanie checkpoint On the backs and shelves should be the same.


 Collar. To construct a rectangle whose width equals the width of the collar, i.e. 5 - 6 cm and the length of the semicircle of the neck, i.e. 18 cm, plus 1 cm: 18 + 1 = 19 cm From the right angle to continue the line at 4 cm From the width of the collar up to postpone 1 cm and draw the collar as shown in Fig. 214, V. 


to Carve out one detail of the back with a single cut shoulder sleeves, shelves two parts of the collar - two parts. 


Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 214. 


Tailoring blouse 

1. To celebrate the middle of the shelves and back cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare on the main lines of the pattern.

3. To do the Assembly rare machine stitching at the shoulder cut shelves. At the end of the shoulder to make nadziejko on the width of the seam allowance given in the cutting, and to unbend the slice of the transition shoulder towards the inside. 

4. Tack the transitional shoulder to the shelf. 

5. Baste sleeve seam, propositiva his elbow in the cut of the back, sew and press to the front. 

6. To votate and vacate the front of the sleeve in the armhole, at the same time baste the side seams, aligning the reference point O. 

7. To pritchet transitional shoulder (stitch width 0.5 - 0.7 cm).

8. Tack podborta, folding them with a blouse inside out, sew from the shelves to the notch width of 0.5 - 0.7 see to Turn the side to the front side, sweep, releasing the roll from the shelves to the cuffs, and from the sides on the sides. The inner edge of podborov to sew on the machine and attach the concealed stitches. 

9. Baste and sew the collar folded inside out. In the corners of the excess fabric to cut off, remove the collar, straightening the seam, releasing the roll from the collar.

10. Tack the collar to the neckline, attaching the front side of it to the wrong side of the bodice, aligning the middle of the collar to the middle of the back, and pristroit. The bottom collar to hem hand stitched design. 

11. Handle to cuff (see style 63), hem hem, sweep loop in shared direction. 

Drawing style lines on the skirt pattern (Fig. 215) 

Style developed on the basic pattern drawing of a skirt. On the front panel of the skirt to apply a line cut from the end of the pulley-block darting to the bottom. To number parts and cut the pattern. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt (Fig. 216)


For cutting skirt with two inverted pleats in the fabric width should be 140 cm Fabric folded in half, face side inside, Talev cut myself. From waist line to delay 22 - 23 cm and hold the hips parallel to the waist line. Baste edges with seam 1 cm To the fold of the fabric to make the middle pattern front cloth skirts, then the pattern of the cloth back, skirts, combining lateral shear. The rest of the tissue between the parts of the pattern will be wide inverted pleats (in this case 16 cm).In order for the seam to remove deep folds, you need to adjust it using paper patterns of the front and rear panels (item 2) so that the cut patterns of the front panels left to weld (edges) 1/4 of the width of the folds (16 : 4 = 4 cm). The opposite fold of the fabric to make the middle pattern front cloth skirts (part 1). The remnant tissue from the part 1 to the seam (edges) will be the remnant of the depth of the folds. Closure to treat deep folds along the seam.

Obelit patterns, to give a seam and hem the bottom. 

 Note. On the same principle to cut out the skirt with two sided pleats, but the seam is customized so that it was located in the middle of the folds. 

Reciprocal or one-sided folds can be laid in a straight line, extended or narrowed down to 2 - 3 cm.