Blouse made of artificial silk or cotton fabric in a small cage. 


Neck Cape. 


Notched yoke teeth are cut with the front part of the shelves, which is attached to smoothed the pleats on the bias thread. 


Skirt, wool or wool blend fabric, with a belt at the hip line cut-off. 


The cut on the front panel horizontally passes a cord or finishing line. 


Pockets with flaps snap buttons. 


Style the blouse with a skirt can be recommended to a young tall woman with underdeveloped Breasts, narrow and low waist.


Drawing style lines on the pattern of the blouse (Fig. 223) 


the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve. 


 The backrest (Fig. 223, a). The height of the sprout at the shoulder cut to the left to defer 4 cm, the depth of the sprout down - 5 see Points 4, 5 connect. Lengthen the back of the waist line to 15 - 18 cm and from the side cut along the waist line to the left to defer 3 see the depth of the neckline armhole to connect with dot 3 and continue the line to 15 - 18 cm, then draw in the bottom of the back. 


 Shelf (Fig. 223, b). Shoulder tuck to move on waist line. From the top of the neck to the left at the shoulder slice to postpone 4 cm, and the depth of the cut down 7 - 8 see Point 4 connect to point 7 - 8. To extend the shelf from the waist line to 15 - 18 cm drawing coquette. For this line to the armhole split in half and the dividing point to the right to draw a line to the intersection with the middle shelves. From the point of intersection to the left to defer the 6 7 see point 6 and 7 draw a line down parallel to the middle shelves.Segment from 6 - 7 to the openings to be divided into three parts and from the points down to draw a line parallel to the first, From the first point of division (from the armhole) down to postpone 4 cm and from point 4 to the right to draw a line parallel to the top line to the intersection with the dotted line. To make a decorative yoke, as shown in Fig. 223 b.


Show the direction of the grain lines on the side of the shelf (item 3) and apply the control points at the same level. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the blouse (Fig. 224) 


For applying the pattern lines to cut. 


 The backrest (Fig. 224, a). When cutting the middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric. 


 The yoke (Fig. 224, b) carve out together with the front part of the bodice. 


 The flank (Fig. 224, C, d). For applying lines (the location of the folds) pattern to be cut and push for 6 - 8 see First on the fabric to lay pleats, priotity, then apply the pattern barrel (item 3) so that the lobe thread on the fabric coincides with the direction of the grain lines on the pattern (Fig. 224, d). Podkraj piping for handling the openings of the shelves to make after joining the Basque with the message. 


Tailoring blouse 


1. To celebrate the middle of the back and yoke seam cushioning. 


2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 


3. Baste pleats on side parts, priotity them.


4. After trying to handle the edge of the yoke podkralas the facing strips cut from the main fabric in the shape of the cutout lower edge of the yoke. Obtachku to impose the yoke inside out. Sew it from the piping (weld width depending on the falling fabric of 0.5 - 0.7 cm). The seam in the corners to nadsech, bend podkraj towards the back edge of the yoke. straightening and sweeping up from the piping, releasing Kant from the primary by 0.1 - 0.2 see


5. To impose the yoke on the flank of the shelves, combining the main lines of the pattern, baste the front of the yoke (plastron) on the flank with bill weld, then grind down the inner seam from the corner of the yoke to the waist line. The top yoke Topstitch finishing stitching on the front side seam width of 1 and 0.7, sm (optional). 


6. Treating neck cross obrazkami. 


7. Sew shoulder seams of back and front at the same time grinding off the ends of obcutek neck. 


8. Sew the side seams of the back and shelves. 


9. Processing podkralas the armhole facing. 


10. Hem bottom of blouse podrobnym seam.


Drawing style lines on the skirt pattern (Fig. 225) 


Style was developed on the pattern basic skirt drawing. 


 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 225). From the waist line in the middle of the front of the cloth down to postpone 15 - 18 cm From the point at right angles to the line of mid front to the right to draw a line to the intersection with the side cut, and continuing it at 1.5 - 2 cm From the first traveling block darting up and to the left to lay 3 to 4 cm Draw valve, connecting point 3 to 4 point 3 to 4, then point of 1.5 - 2. From point 3 to 4 down to postpone the length of the burlap pocket (10 cm). The width of the burlap passes from the point 10 to the side of the slice.The depth of the first tuck on the waist line to divide in half, and half of it to move 4 cm to the side of the slice. Belt for the middle front continue up to 4 to 5 cm lateral slice into 3 to 4 cm and to extend the height of the belt to the right by 1 - 1.5 cm to Connect the dots, as shown in Fig. 225. The depth of the tucks from the waist line to the top of the belt line to continue in a straight line. To apply a line of the finishing line, which runs below the top of the valve 1, see


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt (Fig. 226) 


 Back panel of the skirt to find no change. For belt waist up to add 3 - 4 cm On lateral cross section of the belt to extend to 1 - 1.5 cm 


 the Front panel of the skirt (Fig. 226, a). For shaped lines caused the pattern to cut to the upper cut of the skirt (part 1) otkroite obtachku to handle valve along with the burlap pocket. When cutting the middle of the front pattern cloth skirt to put to the bend of the fabric. The upper part of the skirt (Fig. 226, b) also put the middle of the fold of the fabric. The lower cut giving allowance for the burlap pocket. Its width equal to the width of the pocket plus 1.5 - 2 cm, length - on request. To otkroite corsage on the top of the skirt, below the waist line to 4 cm.
 

Sewing the skirt 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the skirt. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. To lay the finishing line on the upper part of the front cloth skirts. 

4. Baste and sew tackle Darts at the front and rear sheets. 

5. Processing obecnie loop on the valves. 

6. Handle flap pockets to side cut podkralas the facing.

7. To baste the lower part of the front cloth skirts on the upper, combining a snare. The cut between the transfer valve to baste the seam, then pricecat from the inside out or bend to lay the finishing line, depending on the shape of the trim. 

8. Sew the seam of the burlap. 

9. Baste and sew the side seams of the front and rear panels of the skirt (burlap in the seam should not be included). 

10. Baste and sew Darts on lining the waist, tuck the lining should match the Darts on the skirt.

11. Handle the zipper on the left side of the skirt. To do this, to cut out the facing from lining fabric to match the product. Its length equal to the length of the clasp, plus 4 - 5 cm and width 6 - 7 cm to Attach the facing face on the front side of the bottom of the fastener, to pritchet seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm, bend towards the inside, skirting the seam primaqiune, prometti. Lay the edge along the fold top closure with a width of 1 cm and a length equal to the length of your clasp plus 2 - 3 cm. Tack the edge with a little tension and pritchet on the machine or hand stitches (Fig. 226, C).To the edge to sew on hooks, piercing head cloth, print head hooks on the front side of the top of the zipper, stepping back from the bend of 0.3 - 0.5 cm so that the heads of the hooks were not visible from the front side. To the allowance of the bottom of the clasp to pritchet obtachku, folding her skirt inside out. The seam allowance for the top of the clasp to bend on front side to slice clasp tack and pricecat the second end of the belt lining, the seam resuturing. Then baste, and sew upper edge of lining belt with skirt, equating sections.Bend the lining towards the inside, straightening the seam, releasing the roll from the side skirts 0.3 - 0.4 cm, to sweep, to iron, to lay the finishing line, departing from the fold to 0.3 - 0.4 cm Lower cut lining belt bend on the wrong side of 0.7 cm to stitch and attach along the length of the Darts cross stitches. Sew the bodice to the lining hand stitches, departing from the fold 0.5 cm.