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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Skirt with a blouse yoke

Blouse of silk or cotton fabric in small stripes or plaid (size 48 - 54). 

The bodice at the yoke, cut by a transverse filament. 

A yoke attached to the insert with co-location of the strips wide of the finishing line. 

Front bodice stitched to the insert. 

Sleeve short casting. 

Collar - telekrona stand with sides and a flap snap single button. 

For women with a short neck collar better to do turn-down. 

Skirt of plain wool or wool blend soft fabric, flared, asymmetrical.

On the right side unilateral pleat, which includes pocket. 

Top stitched notched strap, releasing the pocket. 

This style can be done on the skirt straight shape. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern of the blouse (Fig. 209) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses.

 The backrest (Fig. 209). The height of the sprout up to defer 3 see the Middle of the back to continue to a level stand height, i.e. up to 
point 3, plotting points to connect. From point 3 to the left to delay 0.5 cm, and from the intersection points down to 1 cm to Make a stand, as shown in Fig. 209.

For the yoke from the depth of the cut sprout down delay 9 see Shoulder cut backless split in half and from the dividing point to the left to postpone 2 cm, Point 2, 9 connect. From the end of shoulder of the cut to hold the line to the middle of the back, parallel to the first line. 

 The shelf (Fig. 209, b). Shaped line on the shelf cause when you closed the shoulder dart, i.e. move it to the waist line.

To build tselnokrajnie rack. Shoulder cut from the highest point of the neck continue to stand height, i.e. 3 cm From point 3 up to defer half the height of the stand (1.5 cm). To connect the top of the neck with the point of 1.5 smooth line, extending it beyond 1.5 to 6 cm From the depth of the neck down to postpone the 9 cm and the resulting cut is divided into three parts. From the top of the division to defer to the right 4 cm Draw valve. Connect point 4 with the depth of the neck, then the lower point of division. Divide the top line valve in half and breaking point to connect with point 6, what will be the collar.

The shoulder cut shelves split in half and the dividing point right to postpone 2 see Point 2 and 9 to join. Second line to hold from the end of the shoulder cut to the middle of the shelves, parallel to the first line. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the blouse (Fig. 210) 

 Flirty backless (Fig. 210, a). When cutting the pattern of the yoke to put the middle of the bend of the fabric by a transverse filament. 

 Insert to the back (figure 210, b). When cutting the pattern to put to the equity thread on the fabric coincides with the direction of the grain lines on the pattern. To carve out two parts. 

 The lower part of the backrest (Fig. 210,). The middle of the pattern is put to the bend of the fabric by a transverse filament. From waist line to lengthen the back of 15 - 18 cm 

 Flirty shelves (Fig. 210, d). Fabric folded in half wrong side inside, combining stripes. To seal the ends of the fabric, then apply the pattern of the yoke so that the lobe thread on the fabric coincides with the direction of the grain lines on the pattern, and cut two pieces. 

 Insert to the shelf (Fig. 210, d). Cutting to produce the same as and insert to the back. 

 The lower part of the shelf (Fig. 210, e). The middle of the pattern is put to the bend of the fabric by a transverse filament. To extend the shelf 15 - 18 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 210.

Tailoring blouse 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and shelves, the middle of the yoke and waist seam cushioning. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and stitch detail inserts, backrest and shelves in the middle, combining strips of fabric. The seam resuturing.

4. Baste and sew the yoke back and shelves on the shoulder, seam to resaturate. To make nadziejko at the counter, then baste and sew the details of the insertion of the back and shelves also on the shoulder, seam to resaturate. 

5. Treating the corners on the insert and the lower part of the back and shelves. 

6. Handle loop on the flap of the right shelves one or two obrazkami. 

7. Bend allowance for this when cutting the yoke, the upper section of the backrest and shelves to the side inside out to prometti, priotity, then apply to procured parts, combining snares. Tack and pritchet on the front side width of the finishing stitches, departing from the fold 1 cm

8. Processing rack podkralas the facing. Sew the ends of obcutek at the shoulder sections, the seam resuturing. Applying face facing to a front side of the blouse, aligning the middle of the sprout to the middle of the piping and shoulder seams. Tack podkraj, forming a small slack fabric in the corners of the upper collar, pritchet seam width 0.7 cm and resuturing. Fold the facing towards the inside, releasing the roll by 0.1 - 0.2 cm in front of the back side of the blouse, and the collar to the toe valve from podkraj Cape. On the valve rolling release with side blouses.

9. To prepare the sleeve. Baste and sew the seam of the sleeve, handle the bottom of its lateral or podkralas the facing, with a width of 3-4 cm and a length equal to the width of the bottom of the sleeves plus 2 cm for the seam. Sew the ends of otacek, resuturing seam, fold the facing sleeve face inward, tack, equating sections, and pritchet seam width 0.7 cm Seam resuturing, the bend facing towards the inside, releasing the roll from the sleeve by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, prometall and priotity. In blouse of cotton fabric for the second cut, the piping can be pricecat by car, and from silk to sew hidden stitches manually.

10. To votate and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. Hem bottom of blouse podrobnym seam. 

Drawing style lines on the skirt pattern (Fig. 211) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing of the skirt. 

The front and rear panels (Fig. 211, a, b). For flared skirts on the rear (Fig. 211, a) and front (Fig. 211, b) the panels to apply a cutting line pattern from the end of tackle Darts to the bottom. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt(Fig. 212) 

 Back panel of the skirt (Fig. 212, a). For applying lines to cut the pattern from the hem to the end of tackle Darts, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tuck close, due to what happens rascles skirt on the bottom. 

 The front panel (Fig. 212, b). For applying the pattern lines to cut. Traveling tuck close, due to what happens rascles bottom line. Flare the pattern to put a figure straps. From the side cut along the waist line to the right to defer 10 cm From point 10 draw a line down to the bottom. From point 10 down to defer 20 cm Received a cut to divide in half. From the points of division to defer to the right 9 see Points 9, 10, and 20 join, as shown in Fig. 212, b. For strap width from a point 10 at the waist and from point 9 to the right to delay for 5 cm, then from a point 20 down to 6, see plotting points to connect.

 Line the entrance to the pocket. From point 10 down to postpone 6 cm, and from the point 6 - 10 - 11 see the resulting cut is a line of entry into the pocket. 

 Burlap pocket. From point 6 down to defer 3 see Point 5 (at the waist) to connect with point 3. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

In a one-sided folds the right panel skirt cut and a top of the line strap to give allowance to the half depth of the folds unilateral 6 - 7 cm (Fig. 212,). 

 To the side parts of the front panels (Fig. 212, d) also allow for half the depth of the folds 6 - 7 cm and on the burlap pocket.

In order not to disrupt the contour lines of the pattern, move the cutter or through a thin paper pattern strap (Fig. 212, d) and push the two parts. To handle the entrance line to the pocket otkroite obtachku, which is both a burlap pocket (shown in dashes in Fig. 212, b).
 


Sewing the skirt 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the skirt and place the strap terminations. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. To handle the bar. Folded two parts of the strap facing inwards, sew, twist it on the front side, to iron and put on the front panel of the skirt, adjusting the ends of the strap with sections of the skirt at the waist. Tack and attach the bar of concealed stitches to the skirt.

4. The cut of the pocket to tack Podkayne the burlap, folding it with the skirt inside out, then sew simultaneously vracheva the lower ends of the strap, fold the seam allowance on the fold and the burlap towards the inside, straightening the seam, releasing the roll from the side of the skirt by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, to iron. 

5. To superimpose the front panel of the skirt on the side, combining the snare.

6. Sew the details on the skirt inner seam from the waist to the entrance line to the pocket and fasten the cross stitching.

7. Baste and sew the burlap pocket, at the same time grinding off the seam crease (the inner crease of the folds). At the end of the pocket to make a cross stitch on the depth of the folds. 

8. Baste and sew the side seams of the front and rear panels of the skirt, leaving the left seam 14 - 16 cm on the clasp. 

9. To handle the clasp. 

10. To handle the top of the skirt under the belt. 

11. Hem the bottom of the skirt.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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