Gown of plain wool or wool blend fabrics (sizes 46 - 56). The front part of the bodice with inset, fastened with three buttons. Insert vstrechena pintucks or corded stitching that continues on the skirt in the form of polyoxide. The side shelves attached to the insert wide decorative stitching. The back straight adjacent. Sleeve vtachnoy, narrow. The one-piece collar. The dress can be worn with peplum attached to belt. At the top of her waist and laid two soft pleats and loop Welt pockets. Floors peplum rounded.Skirt video with one-way pleat in the back.

A dress of this style can be recommended to any figure. Women with a short neck collar better to do turn-down. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 309) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 The backrest (Fig. 309, a). For the length of the peplum on the back from the waist line down the middle of the back and side cut delay to 18 cm (optional). 

 Shelf (Fig. 309, b). From the depth of the neck down to delay 4 see Point 4 to connect with the top of the neck, continuing it to the width of the cut of the Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm i.e. 8 cm From point 8 to the right to defer the width of the collar (4 cm). From point 4 draw a line parallel to the first line, to the level of the top of the neck. Up to postpone 2 cm, right 10 cm To the length of the shelves from point 4 and the waist line to delay 2,5 cm 2,5 Points, 10 connecting, continuing this line up 3 cm to Issue a unfastened piece collar.

For a barrel at the shoulder slice from the top of the neck to the left to defer 3 cm Lateral cut from the armhole to the waist to split into three parts. Point 3 to connect the lower point of division of a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 309 b. 

The length of the peplum on the shelf on the side slice equal to 18 cm From the waist line to delay down 10 see Point 2,5 to connect with long peplum side cut a smooth line. Pulley-block darting at the bodice and peplum to split into two. To do this, the depth of the tuck to split in half and place the second tuck at a distance of 6 cm from the first. 

 The line of entry into the pocket. From the waist on the first line tuck down to defer 5 cm from the point 5 to the left - 12 - 13 cm and point 12 - 13вниз - 3 see Point 5, 3 is to connect a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 309 b. 

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 309, C). Apply a contoured line insertion. To do this, from the waist line on the side cut down to delay 5 - 6 cm and the first line tuck to continue down on 2, see Point 5 - 6, 2 connect. 

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 310) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 The backrest (Fig. 310, a). The middle of the pattern to put at the bend in the fabric the common thread and find no change. 

 Peplum to the back (Fig. 310,b). The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread and to carve out one detail. 

 3аднее cloth skirt. By the middle of the pattern to give the allowance on one-way pleat 8 - 10 see 

 Insert to the shelf (Fig. 310,). To transfer the Darts to make nadziejko from the end of it shaped to the line of insertion. Tuck closed, whereby opening of the new tuck on the side cut. For shapes with a large bust half shoulder Darts to move into the insert, and the other half in the side cut. First Topstitch the pockets. For example, one pintuck fabric requires 0.3 cm, and a total of 35 pockets: 0.3 X 35 = 10.5 cm. When cutting the pattern (Fig. 310, g) be put so that the direction of the common thread passed on the pockets. The seam after zastrocky pockets to give, as shown in Fig. 310, V. to Carve out two parts. 

 The flank (Fig. 310, d). To carve out two parts so that the middle barrel was the common thread. 

 Peplum to the shelf (Fig. 310, e). To carve out two parts. 

 The insert for the skirt (Fig. 310, g). The inset of the skirt to Topstitch the pockets in the same way as the inset of the bodice. The allowance for the tucks is shown in Fig. 310. To carve out two parts. 

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 310, h). When cutting the middle of the pattern to put the fabric fold and cut out one detail. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 310. 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. To zastrochit tucks on the inset shelves: the shelf on the right wrote from the bottom up, on the left - opposite 

4. To handle the side shelves facing podkralas. Fold the facing and the flank face inward, pristroit, to bend the facing on the underside, releasing the roll from the barrel is 0.1 - 0.2 cm, sweep, priotity. To baste the flank insert, combining the snare, then Topstitch from the front side of the finishing stitching with silk threads to match the product. Line width 1 - 1.5 cm (optional). 

5. Baste and sew the Darts on the back and soft pleats on the shelf.

6. Loop to handle one or two obrazkami on the right shelf. 

7. Baste and sew the shoulder seams, handle collar. 

8. Baste and sew the side seams. 

9. Sew seams sleeves, handle the bottom podkralas the facing. 

10. To votate and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. 

11. To zastrochit tucks on the inset of the skirt. 

12. To handle the angle on the front panel of the skirt. 

13. Allowance for this when cutting, the cut of the skirt is bend towards the inside, prometti. To connect the insert of the skirt bridging the seam with the seam of the transfer. 

14. Baste and sew one-way pleat on the back panel of the skirt.

15. Baste and sew the Darts on the skirt. 

16. Baste and sew the side seams of the skirt. 

17. Baste and sew the bodice to the skirt. 

18. Hem the bottom of the dress. 

19. Baste and sew the Darts on the peplum back and soft pleats to the peplum shelves (soft folds of the peplum should be the same with Darts at the inset bodice).

20. Handle notched pockets on the peplum. On the front side peplum outline the location of the pocket by two parallel and two transverse lines. Translate cushioning seam lines of the pockets inside out. The facing figure-of-pocket to carve on the bias thread. The length of piping equal to the length of the pocket plus 4 cm and width 4 - 5 cm Facing fold with the skirt inside out, combining lines your pockets with the middle of the piping. Tack and pritchet from the inside by the figure of the lines of the pocket with a distance between them of 0,5 - 0,6 cm, to the transverse line of pockets.To penetrate the pocket from the inside out, starting from the middle and not dorezaya to the end of the string is 0.7 - 1 cm and Then to make cuts in the side lines, forming a tongue and a facing to turn inside out, straightening the edge of the pockets, sweep, releasing from obcutek edge with a width of 0.3 - 0.4 cm (Kant needs to close the entrance to the pocket) . The ends of the pockets to lock the inside double reverse stitching.

The sections of obcutek tack the burlap pocket. Align the seam of the sack, sew three sides, rounding out the lines at the corners, cut to neaten. The entrance to the pocket, to sweep away cross stitch priotity from the inside out. 

21. Sew the side seams, peplum back, and shelves. 

22. To handle the peplum hem podkralas the facing. 

23. To treat the upper cut peplum waist, cut out the common thread. The length of the belt equal to the circumference of the waist plus seam allowance on the length, width 7 cm (optional).

Sew the ends of the belt, giving the desired shape. Turn it right side priotity. Folded peplum and the upper part of the belt face inward, equating sections, tack and pricecat. Cut the bottom of the belt to bend on the wrong side and hem manually hidden stitches to seam primaqiune. 

24. To iron the dress and to sew on buttons.