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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Testerone dress with a passing plastron and undercuts from the side seams

Dress of wool fabric or pongee (sizes 46 - 60), one-piece. 


On the front panel of the bib, ending with a Cape. 


From half-length skirt pleated. 


Side cut undercut at the end of which two soft folds. 


Dress with zipper in front. 


The back of the three flared wedges.


Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter, cut in the end. 


The collar is sewn, fold-over with boards. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 95) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 


 The rear panel (Fig. 95, a). The shoulder cut of the back split in half and the points of division to defer 1 SL in the direction of Rostock. Point 1 is connected with the end of the pulley-block Darts. On the line from the shoulder cut down to postpone the 6 - 7 cm and make a tuck at the shoulder cut with a depth of 1 cm For a flared wedges to continue the line of the Darts to the hem. The average wedge at the waist line cutting. Mid-back with elongated Cape. For the Cape from the waist down to delay 3 to 4 cm and to connect with the first line of tackle Darts. 


 The front panel (Fig. 95, b). From the depths of the neck for entry of a fastener and registration boards the right to postpone 3 cm and from point 3 up to 5 see the Top of the neck to connect with dot 5.


To obtain the carved lines on the side the wedge is the line of the side cut from the armhole to the waist to split into three parts, from the top of the division to hold the line until the end of the pulley-block and tuck up having to postpone 2 cm Shoulder tuck to move to the line of podraza, for which the tuck end to connect with the point 2. For rascles wedges from the end of the pulley-block Darts on the skirt to the hem to draw a line parallel to the middle of the front, and from the point of intersection to give rascles wedges 2 cm plotting points to connect with the depth of the pulley-block Darts. Pass plastron passes to half mid skirt.The middle of the front cloth from the waist to the hem is split in half and the point of division to connect with the line side of the wedge. For the design of the Cape from the half-length skirt down to postpone 3 cm, from point 3 to the right for entry of clasp - 3 cm, from point 3 - up 0.5 cm, and draw a line up to the point 5.


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 96) 

 3аднее panel (Fig. 96). For applying the pattern lines to cut. In order not to disrupt the contours of the patterns, transfer the wedges with a chisel or through the thin paper, while maintaining rascles bottom line. When cutting the middle of the pattern of the back to put towards the fold of the fabric. 

 The front panel (Fig. 96, 6). For applying the pattern lines to cut. For details 4 make the cut from the side of the slice to the end of the shoulder tuck, close it, and this will open a new dart at the line podraza. To increase the depth of soft folds can be folded side detail 4 left 3 cm 

To handle the fasteners and the Board to make podkraj from the main fabric of the pattern (shown by hachures). 

To the side of the wedge part 5 when cutting add half the depth of the folds (3 cm) plus 1 cm for the seam (Fig. 96,).

For folds or pleated tissue requires three times more pattern details 6 plus half of the depth of the folds on both sides, i.e. 3 cm to primaqiune details to the dress (Fig. 96, g). This style is pleated to make inverted pleat in the middle with the direction of the folds to the center (for a detailed explanation of bookmarks or pleated folds of this in this style). 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 96.
 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves, waist interlining, seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. To handle loops. Tack and pritchet podkraj sides, stitch resuturing, sweep and priotity. 

4. Allowance given for filing the bottom (item 6), to bend towards the inside and sew hand stitches. To lay the folds, or to make pleated (optional). 

5. On the back (part 1) allowance on the bottom slice to bend towards the inside, tack and priotity, then baste on a medium wedge (item 2), pritchet (width line 1.5 cm).

6. Folded side detail 3 rear cloth dresses and medium wedge face inside, combining snares, sew and handle sections, to press the seam toward the middle of the back. 

7. Bend allowance for this when cutting for processing the lower edge of the plastron, i.e. 2 cm towards the wrong side. To develop the Cape in the middle of the front cloth, tack, priotity, then tack the folds, combining the main lines of the pattern, Topstitch, stepping back from the edge 1.5 cm.

8. To lay soft folds through the bodice podraza. Fold the side wings 5 and plastron face inside, combining snares. To pricecat to folds, then continue stitching down the middle of the seam allowance in half folds. 

9. Allowance for this when cutting, cut on the upper side of the wedge to bend towards the inside, tack, priotity and Topstitch on the shelf, combining snares. 

10. Baste and sew the shoulder seams. 

11. Baste and sew the side seams of the front and rear panels of the dress, and treat the slices, seam resuturing.

12. Sew the top collar with the bottom, folding inside out, to turn out on the front side, releasing the roll from the top of the collar 0.1 - 0.2 cm Votate upper collar on the neck from the middle of Rostock, middle of combining it with the middle of the collar by tilting the lower collar. To pritchet upper collar, lower to manually sew over the seam primaqiune.

13. Baste and sew a seam the sleeves, resuturing, handle the bottom of the sleeve facing podkralas a width of 6 cm, putting her face to the side of the sleeve. To make nadziejko in curly neckline sleeves, the bend facing towards the inside of the sleeve, releasing the roll by 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the sleeves, prometall and priotity, then lay the finishing line on the sleeve 1.5 cm wide to Remove the basting. 

14. To votate and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. 

15. Hem the bottom of the dress concealed stitches and ironed dress.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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