Blouse with variants from cotton or silk fabric with stripes or plaid (sizes 46 - 52). 

The yoke is cut with an oblique arrangement of the strips or cells, tissue, ahead of the closure. 

The bodice under the yoke assembled in the Assembly. 

Back straight. 

Vtachnoy sleeve, short on the cuff. 

Stand collar with extended ends. 

The lower part of the collar of plain fabric, matching the tone of the strips or cells. 

The long ends of the collar give the opportunity to wear the blouse with variations. 

This style is suitable for shapes with an underdeveloped bust.

Skirt from plain fabric, straight cut with an inverted pleat or one sided, jotted in the middle of the front, and patch pockets. 

Darts at the waist pockets laid on the soft folds. 

Belt cut along with the skirt. 

The clasp on the lock "zipper" in front of the crease. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern of the blouse (Fig. 228) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing blouses. 


 Shelf (Fig. 228, a). Shoulder tuck to move on the waist line. On a modified pattern shelves apply a contoured line. The length of the shelf from the neck to the waist line to divide in half. From the points of division to defer up 2 cm, armhole then split into three parts and connect the top point of the division point 2 a smooth line (a line cut in the shoulder). By the middle of the yoke to add 2.5 cm to the length of the clasp. From the yoke to the hem to cause the cutting line of the pattern, as shown in Fig. 228. 


 Collar (Fig. 228, b). To construct a right angle and put a point A. From point A the right to defer the measure of the semicircle of the neck (18 cm) and up 2.5 cm, plotting points connect smooth lines. From points 2.5 and 18 to defer up the width of the collar, i.e. 12 cm, and the right line be divided into three parts. From the top of the division to defer to the right of 6 cm and draw unfastened piece collar smooth line. Point 18 connected to point 6, continuing the line is still 6 cm.At the unfastened portion of the collar segment from point 12 to point 6 divided in half, connecting the breaking point with the second point 6 with a straight line, continuing it up to 32 cm (length of the ends of the collar). From a point 18 on an inclined line to defer up to 2.5 cm. From the obtained point to draw a line parallel to the top, the length of which 42 see Point 32, 42 to join.

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the blouse (Fig. 229) 

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 Back to carve out the basic pattern for blouses with an extension below the waist line to 18 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 229, a). When cutting at the cut lines of tackle Darts in the pattern to join at the bottom, still getting the depth of the tuck, which opens at the cut edge of the yoke the rest of the shoulder tuck. To increase Assembly lines for the pattern to be cut, not dorezaya to the bottom 0.5 cm

The middle pattern shelves to put to bend the fabric of common thread and sidewall of the pattern to take the left 5 - 8 cm for assemblies. 

 Flirty shelves (Fig. 229, b). The fabric is doubled, combining the strips or cells. Pattern to put to the equity thread on the fabric coincides with the direction of the grain lines on the pattern. For processing fasteners to carve out lateral facing of a width of 6 cm and a length equal to the length of the clasp, or to give the seam allowance of the fabric when cutting. 

 Collar (see Fig. 228, b). To fold the fabric and put the pattern in the same way as when cutting the yoke. The lower collar cut out of plain fabric, matching the tone of the strips or cells. The direction of the grain lines of the upper and lower collar should be the same.

The seam on the collar slices of 0.7 cm, for the rest of the parts as shown in Fig. 229. 

Tailoring blouse 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, shelves and cushioning yoke seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Handle fastener yoke with obrazkami of the transverse filaments or the allowance given when cutting.

4. On the top slice of the shelves to collect the Assembly or lay folds. 

5. Baste and sew the lower section of a yoke with the upper slice of the shelves, combining the snare. 

6. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams.

7. Fold the upper and lower collar face inward, equating sections, and sew the unfastened portion of the collar and the ends to the line terminations to the neck. Remove the ends of the collar, straightening the corners and promette. Prepared collar wmeat and vacate in the neck. Fold up the bottom collar and the blouse inside out, tack it lightly propositiva the neck in oblique sections (votati at neckline and vacate from the bottom of the collar). Cut the edge of the upper collar bend inside width of the seam allowance and hem by hand to seam primaqiune.The first loop in the blouse to prometti at a distance of 1 cm from the neck, the rest - in style.

8. Sew the sleeve seam and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. Hem blouse podrobnym seam. To iron and sew on buttons. 

Drawing style lines on the skirt pattern (Fig. 230) 


the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing of the skirt. To combine the side sections of the front and rear panels (Fig. 230). 


From the middle of the front cloth skirts at the waist to defer to the left 7 cm. From point 7 draw a line parallel to the middle of the front, continuing it over the hips 2 cm 


From point 2 draw a line parallel to the hip line to the side of the cut, and draw the bottom line of the pockets, rounding out the corner.


From the side of cut back the cloth to defer up to 2.5 cm, point 7, of 2.5 to join, continuing the line to the length of the belt equal to the semicircle of waist (38 cm). From the received line to defer up to 6 cm (width of belt). 


Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt (Fig. 231) 

For applying line pattern of the pocket cut (part 2). 

 The middle of the back of the cloth (Fig. 231, a) attach to the fold of the fabric and cut out the skirt according to the prepared pattern without side seams. By the middle of the front to add 6 cm on one-way pleat.

The side cut of the cloth back on the line of the entrance to the pocket to add 7 cm for the valance. 

 Pocket (Fig. 231, b) to carve out from the main fabric. Due to the seam allowance on the side cut to build a tuck on the pocket, the depth equal to the first tuck. When cutting for machining the pocket to give an allowance of 5 cm 

Burlap to carve out the shape of the pocket from lining fabric with the addition to the seams on all 3 sections, see the other sections of the seam shown in Fig. 231.

Sewing the skirt 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front panels of the skirt of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for shaped lines.

3. Handle pocket (detail 2). Allowance for this when cutting, bend towards the inside and hem with hidden stitches. To lay soft folds on the pocket. 

4. Baste and sew the Darts in the pulley-block on the rear panel so that the line came to naught. Sweep the crease in the middle of the front panel and the rounded pockets and in the corners to make the notch.

Cut to the lower valance to datacat a piece of cloth, treating them the angle, the seam resuturing. To underside of valance, departing 3 cm from the cut edge, tack the burlap pocket. Slice the valance to the inside bend of 0.7 - 1 cm and Topstitch on the burlap. Sections of the front panel to the line terminations of the pocket to bend towards the inside, then apply the front panel on the front side of the pocket, tack transfer of the stitch and pritchet from the inside out, starting line from the corner transfer stitches, and then, stepping back from the outline of the 0.5 cm, continue the string on the belt to the entrance to the pocket.Spread pricechannel burlap pocket and Topstitch the skirt to the pocket wide of the finishing line, at the same time prestativa burlap pocket. Edging edge handle looped suture.

5. In the middle of the front under the fold handle fastener zip fastener or sew hooks. 

6. From the entrance to the pocket fold belt with the skirt inside out, put an edge width of 1 cm, tack, propositiva the side sections of 1 cm, and pritchet, then the belt slightly nautural skirt. 

On the front side of the belt to attach the lining on top to put a strip of canvas, cut on grain lines, and sew along the top cut all three layers, then the lining and the strip to bend towards the inside. Strip cut, so she did not go for the cut of the skirt.

The lower section of the lining to turn inside, tack and sew by hand, closing the seam protecive zone. At the edge of the zipper to sew the lining to the band "lightning". Then continue finishing the stitching on the belt. 

Hem the bottom of the skirt. 

In the process, every detail of the skirt to iron separately. In the finished skirt Utuado: palatini, the seams from the inside, the bottom of the skirt (Ironing from the bottom up). It is not recommended to iron on soft, because the seams and hem become visible from the front side.