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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

The ensemble of blouse, skirt and jacket


The blouse and jacket of plain fabric, skirt fabric in small cells, the lining of the jacket from the fabric of the skirt. Blouse is sleeveless with a drape at the shoulder cut, with a slip yoke in the form of epaulettes, cut with collar, fastened with one button. In the middle of the blouse a deep cut that ends curved zipper on three buttons.

The blouse can be worn with variations. A yoke to carry two colors of fabric: one side of a fabric of fibers of the second fabric of the skirt, i.e. cellular. If the blouse dressed to kilt, yoke to put on plaid side. To solid skirt yoke dress to match the blouse, Primeau her hand stitches. The blouse can also be worn without the shoulder, unscrewing the Board. Podkraj side of the jacket (Fig. 291, a) from fabric finishing.

Skirt front and back straight sides flared with an oblique arrangement of cells, on the front of the insertable parts are processed in the pocket. The side wings ends at the front and rear panels of the skirt flaps attached to the skirt of a single button. 

Women with poor hips and a short waist, as well as women of small stature, skirt wear is not recommended. High women this outfit looks beautiful.

Drawing style lines on the pattern of the blouse (Fig. 292) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 The back of the blouse (Fig. 292, a). The height of the sprout down to defer 5 cm, from the depth of the cut - 6 see Point 5, 6 to connect a smooth line parallel to the neckline of Rostock. From point 5 draw a line parallel to the shoulder cut, to the intersection with the line of openings. From the point of intersection of the angle split in half and draw a line with a length of 1.5 cm to Draw a line yoke of the back, as shown in Fig. 292. To reduce the depth of the cutout openings 2 - 3 cm to Lengthen the back of the waist line at the 20 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 292, b). The first and second lines of the tucks from the shoulder cut down the delay to 6 cm and draw a line parallel to the shoulder cut, to the intersection with the armhole and neckline. From the point of intersection of the neck to reduce the neck by 1 cm and from point 1 for the Basque line to postpone the width of the valve collar, i.e. 4 cm In the middle of the front depth of neck also defer 4 cm Width of the valve split in half and the right for registration of escape his part to postpone 2 cm to place the valve, as shown in Fig. 292, b.The bottom corner of the yoke at the armhole split in half and the division to postpone 2 cm to Make the yoke. The depth of the armhole decrease on 2 - 3 see the Ends of the shoulder tackle and Darts to join.

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the blouse (Fig. 293) 

 Back (see Fig. 292, a) to find the pattern of the basic drawing dresses, putting the middle of the pattern to the fold of the fabric. The seam to give the sprout 0.5 cm, side cut 2 - 3, the armhole 0.5 cm 

 Shelf (Fig. 293, a). Traveling tuck to move to the shoulder to get more priborki. From the end of the shoulder tuck make a cut by the end of the pulley-block, to close it, thereby opening up new enlarged shoulder tuck. On the length of the clasp to the middle of the left shelves to add 3.5 cm To the right shelf for registration notched fasteners from the bottom of your neck down to wait 20 cm and from the received point to the right by the length of the clasp 2.5 cm plus 1 cm for the seam. To make the clasp, as shown in Fig. 293.From the waist line on the side and cut the middle shelves after moving the pulley-block tuck to lengthen the shelf 20 cm and extend the bottom line on the 4 C's.

 The yoke (Fig. 293, b). Cutter to remove the shape of the yoke with the pattern of the back and shelves. Shoulder tuck at the yoke to close. To flirt have done it without the shoulder seam, joining the yoke of the back and shelves cut at the shoulder and find four items: two from main fabric and two from finishing. The pattern on the fabric to lay so that the lobe thread was in the middle of the valve shelf. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 293. 

Tailoring blouse 

1. To celebrate the middle of all parts of the back, the front yoke, waist seam cushioning. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. To lay the folds, or to make Assembly at the shoulder cut shelves. 

4. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams shelves and back. To handle the sections and to press the shoulder seams towards the back and the side to side shelves. Handle hinges on right shelf and on the valve yoke. 

5. Processing podkralas the facing side of the fabric finishing. The Board tops to handle with a notched clasp. 

6. Treating underarm podkralas or oblique facing. 

7. Hem the bottom of the blouse on the machine podrobnym seam.

8. Sew the top and bottom yoke in the middle, the seams resuturing, fold the upper and lower yoke face inward, obtusate at the unfastened portion and the neck, leaving nezastroennoe in the neck 3 to 4 cm to turn on the front side. To turn the yoke on the front side, straighten seams, prometti, not letting go,re-rolling and iron. 

Drawing style lines on the skirt pattern (Fig. 294) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing of the skirt. 

 3аднее flag (Fig. 294, a). To develop this style on the rear panel of the skirt only needed one dart. To do this, the depth of the first tuck to increase by 1 cm due to the second tuck and the rest of it off on the side cut. For the best fit skirts at the waist to inflate the waistline of the cloth back, 2 - 3 cm depending on the physique and fashion. For women with long waist recommended waist skirt wider. From the waist line along the side cut, tuck, and from the middle of the skirt to defer up to 2 - 3 cm and connect the resulting points parallel to the waist line.

From the waist line on the side cut down to defer 8 - 10 cm and to the right from point 8 draw a line equal to 10 - 11 cm. Width of the valve from a point 10 - 11 equal to 5 cm From the point 5 draw a line to the bottom. The width of the valve, i.e. 5 cm, split in half and the dividing point to the right to draw a line equal to 3 cm to Make the valve. 

 The front panel (Fig. 294, b) to build a similar rear panel skirts, only the width of the barrel from a point 8 - 10 should be 12 - 13 see 

pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the skirt (Fig. 295)

For applying the pattern lines to cut. 

 3аднее panel (Fig. 295). The middle pattern rear panels (item 1) when cutting to put the fold of the fabric. At the cut edge of the barrel to the part 1 to give allowance for the half of the depth of unilateral crease plus 1cm for the seam. The depth of the folds at the hem to make narrower by 1 cm 

 Front panel (Fig. 295, b). The middle of the front pattern of the cloth when cutting to put the fold of the fabric. At the cut edge of the barrel to the part 1CH to give allowance for the half of the depth of unilateral folds plus 1 cm for seam allowance on the burlap pocket 14 - 15 cm the Width of the folds along the hem of sause 1 cm 

 Flank (Fig. 295,). The pattern of the front and rear parts of the barrel together, connecting the line side of the cut from the waist, bringing the work rascles barrel on the bottom. When cutting on the fabric to put the pattern so the middle of it was on the bias thread. On the side of cut to give allowance for half the width of the crease plus 1cm for the seam. To the top to find Podkayne obtachku on the entire width of the valve, and to the front of podkraj valve to carve out together with the sacking of the pocket (shown by hachures). 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 295.
 


Sewing the skirt 

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the skirt, a middle barrel spacer bead. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the Darts on the front and rear panels of the skirt. 

4. To pritchet podkraj to the top of the barrel, to make the notch in the corners, cut the fabric into sharp parts of the valves, bend podkraj towards the inside, releasing the roll from the primary by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and priotity. 

5. Defer from the front side of the pocket on the front of the barrel, starting from the middle of the barrel and around the valve the width of the finishing stitches of 0.7 - 1 cm.

6. Baste and sew the right side seam to podraza valve front and rear panels of the skirt (sew from the waist line to handle seams from the inside out). In the left side to handle the clasp. 

7. To impose lateral wedge on a skirt, combining the main lines of the pattern, tack the side to the skirt, then from the wrong side sew the seam of the fold on the rear panel of the skirt. On the front panel of the skirt from the wrong side sew burlap pockets, at the same time grinding off the seam allowance on the fold.

8. Topstitch from the front side of the rear part of the barrel on the width of the finishing stitches (0,7 - 1 cm), continuing the line from the middle of the barrel and around the valve. 

9. Processing grosgrain tape traveling section of the skirt. 

10. Hem hem, iron and sew on buttons. 

Drawing style lines and the cut of the jacket (Fig. 296) 

the Style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset. 

 Back (Fig. 296, a) to find the pattern of the bodice with tselnokrajnimi sleeve, extending the jacket from the waist line at 20 to 25 cm (optional). For direct jacket from the beginning of podreza the gusset to draw a straight line on the bottom of the jacket, extended from a straight line to the left to delay 3 - 5 cm 

 Shelf(Fig. 296, b). Jacket length by lateral cut equal to the length of the jacket of the back, i.e. 20 - 25 CL. From the top of the neck to the left to set aside 10 cm from the hem to the left also 10 see Point 10, 10 to connect, continuing the line down to 2 cm straight jacket from the beginning of podreza the gusset to draw a straight line down and to the right to defer the advanced 4 to 6 cm Draw a bottom line, as shown in Fig. 296. The pattern of the back and shelves to carve out the lining for the jacket. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 296.

Pasiv jacket 

1. To celebrate the middle of the shelves and back cushioning seam.

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams. 

4. To votate and vacate gusset (wmeat and vacate side of the product). 

5. In the same sequence sew the lining to the jacket. 

6. Fold the lining with the jacket inside out, combining shoulder and side seams and the sleeve seam. Tack and pritchet lining, not pritchina it on the Rostock.

7. Through sprout remove the jacket on the front side, straighten the seam, not letting the roll (as the jacket can be worn on both sides). To prometti, to iron and to sew the lining in the Rostock manual stitches.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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