Style 83 (see color figure on the left) 


Ensemble of solid, dense fabric: wool, Panama, crepe, etc. (sizes 46 - 60). 


One-piece dress with neck curly Bob. 


Short sleeve one-piece, cut together with a valve, turning into a soft pleat. 


The valve is attached to the bodice by a button. 


On the front panel of the dress insert,laid folds. 


The insert can be pleated. 


The jacket of the original cut with tselnokrajnimi collar Alcoi. 


Front of jacket with tselnokrajnimi trehchetvertki sleeve and undercut from the neck, ending with a soft crease.


Tuck laid on the shoulder pleat. 


From the end of Pedraza to the bottom of the jacket is a raised seam. 


Jacket with front fastening three buttons. 


Back with set-in sleeves. 


Such an ensemble can be recommended to full women proportional body. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 287) 


the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with short sleeve. 


 The backrest (Fig. 287, a). To postpone the notch depth of Rostock at the shoulder cut (3 - 6cm) in the middle of the backrest 4 to 6 cm to Make the cut sprout. 


 The front panel (Fig. 287, b). Neck cut at the shoulder from 3 to 6 cm (optional). From the depth of the neck down to postpone 8 cm From point 8 to the right and to the left to snooze for 8 - 9 cm and plotting points to connect with the neck at the shoulder cut. From point 8 up to postpone 2 cm and place the neck a smooth line.


For registration telecronaca valve armhole shelves divided into three parts. From the top of the division to defer to the right 8 cm from the bottom and 11 cm From the point 11 to the left to defer the width of the valve, i.e., 6 see Point 11, 6, 8 connect, continuing the line 0.5 cm up to the shoulder cut. To place the valve, as shown in Fig. 287, b.


Length podraza dresses for insertion on lateral cut 40 cm, in the middle of the front cloth 34 cm From the point 40 through point 34 to hold the line, equal to 49 cm. From the obtained point to draw a straight line parallel to the bottom and the middle of the front. To apply the control line to undercut, to note the width of the folds in the form of numbered items. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 288) 

 Front panel (Fig. 288, a). For feature line valve on the pattern to make the undercut from the openings around the valve, not dorezaya to the shoulder cut shelves 0.5 cm to Push the cut valve for armhole, as shown in Fig. 288, and thereby obtained the allowance for the soft folds. From the armhole towards mid front to make an incision 2.5 - 3 cm to lay soft folds. 

 The cutting insert (Fig. 288, b). The pattern of inserts (item 3) to cut and push on the fabric to the width of the folds, as shown in Fig. 288, b. At the end give allowance for polsladko plus 1cm for the seam.

For treatment of the neck, valve and openings to otkroite piping (shown in dashes in Fig. 288). 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 288.
 

Sewing the dress 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, front panels and waist line cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Handle valve podkralas the facing (the facing has to be already main part at 0.5 cm). Hem bottom of skirt panels concealed stitches, then according to the planned lines to lay the folds, prometall and priotity. 

4. To make nadziejko in the corner of podreza the width half fold, not dorezaya 0.5 cm to the main line pattern. Handle the angle of the facing, cut a square (see one-piece shift dress "shirt"). At oblique slice to pave the edge of a thin fabric, pristroit to the underside of the seam allowance given in the cutting, and then bend it towards the inside, and prometti priotity.

5. Sew the side sections of the allowances to half of the pleat parts 3 and 2 from the underside of the bridging seam. 

6. To impose a bent section of dress insert with inherent folds, combining basic line patterns, and pricecat from the front seam width 1 - 1.5 cm silk thread. 

7. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams shelves and back. 

8. Treating the neck and armhole facing podkralas.

9. Hem the bottom of the dress concealed stitches, to iron and to sew buttons on the valves. 

Drawing style lines of the jacket on the pattern (Fig. 289) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses, and the pattern of the bodice with tselnokrajnimi sleeve and gusset. 

 Back. The pattern of the back from the waist extending to 8 - 10 cm and extend the thighs by 2 cm 

 Sleeve (Fig. 289, a). On the pattern sleeve to the main bodice is to mark the center of the crown and cut off the front part, leaving the rear part of the sleeve to vrachevanie in the back. 

 Shelf (Fig. 289, b). The first and second lines of the tucks to defer down to 6 cm draw a line cutting polyoxide parallel to the shoulder cut, continuing from the second line of the tuck undercut by 7.5 - 8 cm For the formation of soft folds at the end of podreza and for ease of primaqiune 1 detail to continue the line of polyoxide at 4 cm the Length of podraza, point of 7.5 - 8, connect the end of the pulley-block tuck a smooth line. 

From the side of the slice and the middle of the front to lengthen the shelf at 8 - 10 cm By the middle of the shelves to give allowance for visits by closure 3 cm 

 Collar. From the depth of the neck down to postpone 6 see Point 6 to connect the top of the neck, extending the resulting line width of Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. 7,5 - 8 cm Width of collar on the back of 10 - 11cm and up 2 see Points 2, 10 and 11 connect. The width of the escape of the collar from the neckline depth 6 cm On the line entering from the bottom of your neck down to 15 delay see to Draw the collar as shown in Fig. 289, b.
 

Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the jacket (Fig. 290) 

 Back. To the back to find the back half of the sleeves from the basic bodice (Fig. 290, a). At the cut lines, and other lines to give a seam allowance of 1 cm 

 the Front part of the shelf (Fig. 290, b). The front of the shelves to find on the pattern without any changes. 

 Side shelves (Fig. 290, C). When cutting the shoulder tuck polyoxide close. In the lines to make undercut in the corner of polyoxide, to take her up to the soft folds at 2 cm 

 Gusset (Fig. 290, d) is split in half for vrachevanie in the undercut of the sleeve.

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 290.

Tailoring of the jacket 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back, waist line, mid-shelf cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. To vacate half gussets in the undercut shelves. 

4. Lay a soft crease at the top of the shelf (item 1) and pricecat it to the side panels 2 inseam (transfer joint), while simultaneously laying in the corner of polyoxide soft crease. 

5. To vacate half sleeves in the armhole of the back. 

6. Sew shoulder seams shelves and back, grinding off at the same time the upper edge of the sleeve.

7. Sew side seams shelves and back. 

8. Sew lower collar in the middle and vacate it to sprout. 

9. To pritchet top collar for unfastened parts, turn it front side, straighten seams, releasing the chute before the first loop from the top of the collar, and from the first loop to the hem with side shelves. 

10. Hem the bottom of the jacket and the lower section of the sleeve.